Shohin K Hornbeam, 11 years in the making for Fall.

[Smoke]

A Korean Hornbeam cut down from larger tree. Branches and top 11 years in the making and now showing for Fall. A few crimson leaves this year. Will not last till weekend.

Tree is; 6.5 inches tall
Trunk is: 2 inches across
Pot by: Yozan

 

[Dan W.]

Very nice. Great work as always Al.

 

[RECLAIMEDBARNWOOD]

I think the pot and tree go well together. Nice work

 

[jquast]

What is your trick for getting the fall color in your Hornbeam? The leaves on mine just turn brown and fall off without turning colors.

 

[edprocoat]

Nice one Al, in the first pic the date said 2009 how big was it before that point? The lower part you marked to remove in the first pic I assume is a root, did it slow down the tree much removing that large a root?

ed

 

[Smoke]

Nice one Al, in the first pic the date said 2009 how big was it before that point? The lower part you marked to remove in the first pic I assume is a root, did it slow down the tree much removing that large a root?

ed

The first picture is a picture. It was a picture of the tree developed on film. My last computer crashed in 2009 and this is a scan of the picture made with this new computer I purchased in 2009. The red lines are masking tape I painted with a red sharpie. I lost a lot of pictures in that crash and many were on bonsaiTALK. Of course I can't get those back either. Actually the tree was bought in Nov. of 2001 and the chop was done in the spring of 2002. The tree came from El Dorado Bonsai and could have been an import thru Telperion farms who was working in conjunction with El Dorado during that time. I think Dolly Fasio is up in Oregon now after her husbands heart attack back in 2005.

Chris, update?

 

[Smoke]

What is your trick for getting the fall color in your Hornbeam? The leaves on mine just turn brown and fall off without turning colors.

Lots of fertilizer in Sept. This is when it goes thru its second spring and it takes up a lot of fertilizer during that 50 days. Then when the temps fall to the 50's for weeks at a time I set the tree in the middle of the lawn so its gets the full brunt of cold air on it. No other trees to cause wind shears, no shade cloth, no distracting yard trees.

Just cold air naked to the branches. Takes about two weeks to get the feel. I do the same with my big trident, but this year I didn't bother with a nice shot because I had all the squirrell damage to the nebari and I was in to the tree as far as saving the base rather than saving the canopy for a good fall shot. I took this while I typed the last.

Edit: looks kinda funny to have a large begonia with that good of blossoms on Nov. 13.

 

[Smoke]

Nice one Al, in the first pic the date said 2009 how big was it before that point? The lower part you marked to remove in the first pic I assume is a root, did it slow down the tree much removing that large a root?

ed

No it didn't hiccup at all taking the root off. I take roots off like that all the time with tridents, elms and hornbeam. Just cut them off right when the leaves are unrolling in the spring. maybe day three after they pop. I cut off roots like that up to 3/8 inch across with no problems. The tree is pushing so hard right then it doesn't even know you did it. Within about two weeks there will be many roots pushing right below that area. I mention those three plants only because those are trees that thrive well for me where I live, my soil and my fertlizer programs. Your milage will vary.

That tree went on to recieve a ground layer a year later anyway as the roots on inspection the next year was a huge claw. No way it would ever fit into a shohin pots like it was.

 

[JudyB]

Ah, good old film. Such a texture it had...

Anyways, thats some nice tricks for fall color in your area. I love provenance, it adds something.

 

[fore]

No it didn't hiccup at all taking the root off. I take roots off like that all the time with tridents, elms and hornbeam. Just cut them off right when the leaves are unrolling in the spring. maybe day three after they pop. I cut off roots like that up to 3/8 inch across with no problems. The tree is pushing so hard right then it doesn't even know you did it. Within about two weeks there will be many roots pushing right below that area. I mention those three plants only because those are trees that thrive well for me where I live, my soil and my fertlizer programs. Your milage will vary.

That tree went on to recieve a ground layer a year later anyway as the roots on inspection the next year was a huge claw. No way it would ever fit into a shohin pots like it was.

Nice Al! I too like the pot with this tree, matches great. And that's really good trunk girth dev. in 10 yrs, I would've thought it'd take longer than that.

And regard. that cut off root. What if there were no other roots there/poor nebari. How would you go about fixing the gap in the nebari?

 

[tmmason10]

Ahh so this is how I should make my KH into a shohin. Thanks Al, it's looking very nice.

 

[Smoke]

Nice Al! I too like the pot with this tree, matches great. And that's really good trunk girth dev. in 10 yrs, I would've thought it'd take longer than that.

And regard. that cut off root. What if there were no other roots there/poor nebari. How would you go about fixing the gap in the nebari?

Like I did by ground layering it the next year on inspection of the roots. It was a huge claw and it would never work for shohin so I made a whole new business end.

 

[fore]

Like I did by ground layering it the next year on inspection of the roots. It was a huge claw and it would never work for shohin so I made a whole new business end.

I've not read much on how to do a ground layer other than sphagnum moss over exposed cambium. I've tried this twice to a Bald Cypress and they both failed. Have you posted elsewhere about your preferred method for a ground layer?
Thanks Al.
Chris

 

[Smoke]

I've not read much on how to do a ground layer other than sphagnum moss over exposed cambium. I've tried this twice to a Bald Cypress and they both failed. Have you posted elsewhere about your preferred method for a ground layer?
Thanks Al.
Chris

They are all over this place, mixed into many threads.

I can show two I did that were similer to what I did to this tree. I don't have the pictures of the process I did to this tree as they are lost forever. The bases looked much the same, and the process for the layer was the same. Total exposure of the cambium on every single root!

 

[Smoke]

This process was done to a maple with a big base that needed to be scaled back for a pot.

 

[A Random User]

Don't know a damn thing about hornbeams, but the fall colors
Of your tree are very nice...
Thanks for posting !

 

[bwaynef]

The leaves on mine just turn brown and fall off without turning colors.

There are two species of Korean Hornbeam. Genetically, I've read there's a movement to consolidate the two (if they haven't already), but one distinction people have noted are that Carpinus turczaninowii typically has worse fall color than Carpinus coreana.

 

[Smoke]

There are two species of Korean Hornbeam. Genetically, I've read there's a movement to consolidate the two (if they haven't already), but one distinction people have noted are that Carpinus turczaninowii typically has worse fall color than Carpinus coreana.

Interesting, this is a Turc.

 

[coh]

I bought two sets of Korean hornbeam seedlings this past spring, from 2 vendors. One group was labeled C. coreana, the other C. turc. The fall colors on the two sets were very different...the C. turc. was bright yellow, a lot like the tree in this thread. The C. coreana were a red/orange.

 

[tmmason10]

What is the difference between the two? How can you tell?