Shohin olive progression

Pads

Yamadori
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Hello nuts.

This is my first tree post as a rookie. I seek your advice on the future of this little tree.

The tree was acquired from a fellow club member and was hacked last autumn according to the red lines on the photo. It was also repoted in a larger container with fresh soil to aid growth.

bonsai-cut.jpg

There are now buds all over the trunk and I am sceptical on how to progress from this point. Should I start the first brunch as low as the new buds on the trunk or should I remove them and provide more energy on the main branch to thicken it? The latter would mean starting the branch structure above the main trunk.

20180318_082235.jpg
 

sorce

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At this point you don't want to remove anything that's not damaging your future.

The 2 in this photo seem like "bar branches",2018-03-28-03-14-13.jpg but the yellow on is on the other side of that segment collar so it probly won't cause reverse taper....

However...the orange one alone seems may ruin what beautiful inward curve you have on the left....if it is allowed to get too large..

If that green is a bud, I would favor it for a first left branch, slightly more forward, than the current left branch if it start to ruin your movement.

Sorce
 

Pads

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At this point you don't want to remove anything that's not damaging your future.

The 2 in this photo seem like "bar branches", but the yellow on is on the other side of that segment collar so it probly won't cause reverse taper....

However...the orange one alone seems may ruin what beautiful inward curve you have on the left....if it is allowed to get too large..

If that green is a bud, I would favor it for a first left branch, slightly more forward, than the current left branch if it start to ruin your movement.

Sorce

Thank you very much for the advice Sorce.

Well... I removed that bud a few days ago since I thought it was too forward for a first branch! So that option is gone.

I am also not fond of the bar branches. Maybe I should aim for branches much higher.
 

sorce

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I am also not fond of the bar branches

Well see...I dont think they technically are "bar branches"...

Well, not bar branches that will cause reverse taper, so if wire can change the look from bar.....you will be safe...whereas, even if you can visually move "bar" branches on a spruce, they will inevitably cause reverse taper, so it is not "safe".

That bud will come back in time.

I'd like to see the first branch be the middle small bud on the right....
But the left could be a good first too depending on what the top does....what you want it to do..etc...

With as reliable as olive are to backbud...

Youre on a pretty safe sit and wait train right now.

Enjoy the scenery!

Sorce
 

It's Kev

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i'll just keep an eye on this post. my olive tree is still a seed with a 5mm root on it.
 

Pads

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Well see...I dont think they technically are "bar branches"...

Well, not bar branches that will cause reverse taper, so if wire can change the look from bar.....you will be safe...whereas, even if you can visually move "bar" branches on a spruce, they will inevitably cause reverse taper, so it is not "safe".

That bud will come back in time.

I'd like to see the first branch be the middle small bud on the right....
But the left could be a good first too depending on what the top does....what you want it to do..etc...

With as reliable as olive are to backbud...

Youre on a pretty safe sit and wait train right now.

Enjoy the scenery!

Sorce

Thanks!
I will update later in the season
 

Pads

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How did this one grow so far ?
I decided to let the top grow freely and not let any branches ruin the lower trunk. I think I will grow the top for another season before cutting back to create taper and a smooth transition with the original lower trunk. I also have to think what to do with the large cut mark on the side.

I do not have good photos at the moment but I will get some when I return home in a couple of weeks.

20180809_223718.jpg
 

Pads

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An update on the olive with some new photos.

The main branch is fattening up fast. I think that after another season I will be able to cut it back at the red line to create taper.

I am sceptical about the large cut mark. The original cut was not ideal. Should I treat it like a decidious tree (cut it further and cover with cut paste) to help it heal or should I just carve it during the winter?

Advice is much appreciated.

20180830_074751-01.jpeg20180830_074759-01.jpeg20180830_074823-01.jpeg
 
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Nice tree!
My olive tree also have some cuts (before I bought it). The cuts weren't sealed and now there is no callus formed.
Like you, I'm not sure what to do with them. I would prefer to see them healed, but if not, they will provide more character to the tree.
 

my nellie

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If this was mine, I would carve the scar extending it lower to the base of the trunk and create kind of "uro"
However, I would prefer to keep this work pending for future.
I would like to further strengthen the branch first before adding the stress of carving to the tree.
 
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You are right, the scar can be carved at any time, there is no hurry.
Me and @Pads (I think) wanted to know if there is any way to force the callus to grow over the big scars, or if we are stuck with them forever.
 

petegreg

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I'm curious too what is possible in warmer climates. Here's one of mine, the scar hasn't changed in 4 years, no callousing, no move...
IMG_20180830_164154.jpg
 
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I'm curious too what is possible in warmer climates. Here's one of mine, the scar hasn't changed in 4 years, no callousing, no move...
View attachment 208046
Here I've seen big olive trees and all of them have scars and deadwood on the trunk, it seems they are not so good at callusing over.
 

Saddler

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You are right, the scar can be carved at any time, there is no hurry.
Me and @Pads (I think) wanted to know if there is any way to force the callus to grow over the big scars, or if we are stuck with them forever.
I am asking, rather then suggesting. Can the callous be recut to get it growing again? It works really well on maples and crab apples, but I have never had an olive.
 

Pads

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Its true that even large olive trees in the ground do not heal well. I guess I hoped that there could be some solution.

Of course as Alexandra mentioned I will let the branch thicken further before attempting any carving.
 

sorce

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Should have left them old actual branches on the trunk.
You need that traffic to heal if it will.

Seems the live vein will get thinner in this situation. In an attempt to only use one root to fuel that one side.

S
 

Pitoon

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You can always hollow out the deadwood in the cut until you hit live then stop. Let it heal and do it again.
 
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