It's showing a lot of growth up top, which is where maples tend to put it by default, bypassing the lower. To get lower growth, you tend to need to force it. I would remove that total height at least by half (maybe even 3/4 removed), thus forcing lower growth by backbudding, and also do a heavy prune back of much of those longer branches. I'm no visionary, that is I don't "see" the bonsais within the trees, but I see some potential character in the (visualize a can on the one in the lower picture) two can height of your tree. A great deal of fine detail toward backbudding and shaping your maple can be gained by google-ing "maple bud removal" and paying attention to the triple bud aspect of maples (understanding which is leaf bud and which is stem bud). And we bnutters will stay tuned for further documentation and photos of your progress.Does this maple need some pruning work or should I just let it keep growing? I'd like it to be thicker but I also would like to see more lower branches.
I agree. But I am a bit of a chop maniac.
Good point written. Perhaps a question back to Swill.....How thick of a trunk are you thinking about for your future tree? You may need to chop really low. Grow. Chop. Grow.......and work your way up to the trunk you imagine. What are you thinking? Giving that information out you might get more targeted, more helpful information to achieve your goal. It might help.Maple trunks are usually grown out in segments. Once the lower segment has achieved the desired girth, the trunk is chopped back and a new leader is established and allowed to grow until it has reached the desired thickness, rinse and repeat. Having an idea of what you want from this tree will help.
Maple trunks are usually grown out in segments. Once the lower segment has achieved the desired girth, the trunk is chopped back and a new leader is established and allowed to grow until it has reached the desired thickness, rinse and repeat. Having an idea of what you want from this tree will help. Another thing to consider now is the roots under the soil. Getting the roots in order while the tree is young will save you much frustration. Good luck.
I agree in the way that I like maples to have subtle taper and nice movement. The problem with chopping more often is, if the lower trunk isnt thick enough to your liking to begin with, it will not thicken much if at all until the next section of trunk has reached the same girth as the first portion of the trunk, so you get very minimal taper and it actually will take longer. I would say let it grow until you like the thickness then chop back.You are right this is the way often done and the result is then a trunk with big taper and scars that hopefully heal in time. Then they tend to grow horizontal branches and It will probably look nice but most of the time not more than that.
Isnt it better to chop more often so you have smaller scars that can heal cleanly? It would probably take longer but endresult is probably better.
In my opinion taper is nice but for a maple i quite like if this is more subtle and not bang taper in your face. It looks more natural this way.
Does this maple need some pruning work or should I just let it keep growing? I'd like it to be thicker but I also would like to see more lower branches.
Osoyoung, that's what I've read 90 percent of the blogs, threads, books, on trunk and branch development. Not all were about maple but it seems a widely applicable way to get to the goal.
Correct me if I'm wrong but from what I read, the requirement for trunk thickening is a lot of good strong branches, but exactly where they are on the tree depends on where and what manner of growth you want.
You can develop branches and trunk as long as you don't cut or bend down too many at one time. It does slow the growth when you cut but later is made up for by branching, thus drawing more sap and making more food and so thickening the trunk.
Yes?
How long has it been in the grow bed? Doesn't look like its been there for too long. 2
Having been down this road before, were it my tree, I would chop it as @Alain suggested - upper right branch becomes the new leader. Sometime in May or early June when the first flush has been hardened, cut back the leader. Don't cut anything else. This ought to give the tree many new low branches.
This is always the damn if you do... dammed if you don't scenario in Bonsai, and the issue where everyone whatsoever their level of skill will always struggle with... To cut or allow to grow.
The truth I believe is in the middle... and that no matter which decision, their are down sides to each.