Should I repot newly acquired bonsai?

bonsaiboi

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I recently came into possession of two pre-bonsai. One Carissa Macrocarpa and one Ficus Microcarpa (Tigerbark Fig).

Each is currently in a ~4” plastic pot. Should I move them into a dedicated bonsai pot or should I wait?

I feel like I should repot but given my novice status I’m unsure if I should wait until the spring to do so?

Thank you!
 

BalconyBonsai

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I am a novice myself so take my advice for what it's worth but from what I have learned this far, putting trees in actual bonsai pots is something you do once the tree is more or less finished, not neccessarily when they are in the pre-bonsai stage. This is because the smaller pots will really limit the growth of the trees whereas keeping them in larger grow-pots will encourage growth of both trunk size and branching as the roots have more room to grow, which is typically what you want. This is of course, unless you feel they are at the right size already. With outdoor bonsai, alot of people will plant the trees in the ground for years just to gain maximum growth before planting the tree in ever smaller pots. But I guess it comes down to where in the development phase you feel the trees are in. If they are almost done or not.

Then of course you also have the issue of when to replant which varies from species to species. I'm only familiar with the ficus if the ones you mentioned, but from what I have read these should be repotted in summer when they are in their growing phase and not during fall/winter.

But like I said in the beginning, I'm new to this myself and more experienced poeple will probably chime in soon but I thought another newbies perspective could be of some value. I know you might feel you want to do things to help the trees, I know I did(and still do to some extent) when I just had started, but many times it's a patience game, waiting for the right time to do things:)

Welcome to the forums!
 

bonsaiboi

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I am a novice myself so take my advice for what it's worth but from what I have learned this far, putting trees in actual bonsai pots is something you do once the tree is more or less finished, not neccessarily when they are in the pre-bonsai stage. This is because the smaller pots will really limit the growth of the trees whereas keeping them in larger grow-pots will encourage growth of both trunk size and branching as the roots have more room to grow, which is typically what you want. This is of course, unless you feel they are at the right size already. With outdoor bonsai, alot of people will plant the trees in the ground for years just to gain maximum growth before planting the tree in ever smaller pots. But I guess it comes down to where in the development phase you feel the trees are in. If they are almost done or not.

Then of course you also have the issue of when to replant which varies from species to species. I'm only familiar with the ficus if the ones you mentioned, but from what I have read these should be repotted in summer when they are in their growing phase and not during fall/winter.

But like I said in the beginning, I'm new to this myself and more experienced poeple will probably chime in soon but I thought another newbies perspective could be of some value. I know you might feel you want to do things to help the trees, I know I did(and still do to some extent) when I just had started, but many times it's a patience game, waiting for the right time to do things:)

Welcome to the forums!
Thank you for the detail! I don’t think they’re done just yet (I say that knowing I have so much more to learn).

I’ll make sure to focus on care and maintenance for the time being!
 

Potawatomi13

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Keep in sunny window(south if possible)until temp there gets too hot. Both can be kept outside in good weather of 40 above zero or more in partly shaded spot. Be aware to not over water. Damp, not wet or dry. Good fortune.
 

Haines' Trees

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Disclaimer: I don’t have either of these species, so take this with a grain of salt.

Generally speaking you want to repot in spring/early summer. There are species that can be repotted at other times of year, some even prefer later repotting. I would say that unless either tree is looking unhealthy or the substrate they’re planted in is garbage you should leave them be for now. @BalconyBonsai is right in that your classic bonsai pot is typically for “finished” trees. But that’s not to say you couldn’t plant them into a larger bonsai pot and let the trees grow into them. The scale would look a little funky I suppose but if that’s what you want to do go for it! If you want to put them into something that isn’t a cheap plastic pot, you can get some plastic bonsai pots in various sizes off Amazon here
I like them, nice rigid plastic with drainage screens molded in. They sell a variety of sizes. If you really don’t want to spend tons of money, Home Depot has terra cotta pots for cheap. Not the best option for bonsai but they make due short term.

After a quick look on Wikipedia it looks like C. macrocarpa is a plum native to the shores of Southern Africa and can tolerate down to around mid to low 20s, but only when they’re more mature. What is your plan for wintering them? Or do you plan to keep them indoors indefinitely?
 

Michael P

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Whether to repot now depends on two things:

1. Are they in good soil? If so, you can definitely wait until warm weather next year. This is the safest course. If they are in really bad soil (poor drainage) then an emergency repot is needed. Use a somwhat larger container, bonsai or typical pot.
2. How will you keep them over the winter? Both species like to be repotted when actively growing. This means warmth and bright light. A warm greenhouse or indoors with good artificial light will work.

Thanks for letting us know you are in New England. It is a challenge to keep tropical bonsai in good condition over the winter in cold climates, so be cautious. I grow both species, and they are easy and good first choices for a beginner. My first bonsai was a Carissa, acquired in 1975. It survived my decades of ignorance and I still have it.
 

Forsoothe!

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Repot when things are actively growing, not autumn when plants with problems go to sleep and never awaken in spring. Almost everything parks in winter and giving it better growing conditions, whatever that is, is of very limited usefulness. If it has lived in "bad soil" this long, it'll make it to late spring.
 

bonsaiboi

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Disclaimer: I don’t have either of these species, so take this with a grain of salt.

Generally speaking you want to repot in spring/early summer. There are species that can be repotted at other times of year, some even prefer later repotting. I would say that unless either tree is looking unhealthy or the substrate they’re planted in is garbage you should leave them be for now. @BalconyBonsai is right in that your classic bonsai pot is typically for “finished” trees. But that’s not to say you couldn’t plant them into a larger bonsai pot and let the trees grow into them. The scale would look a little funky I suppose but if that’s what you want to do go for it! If you want to put them into something that isn’t a cheap plastic pot, you can get some plastic bonsai pots in various sizes off Amazon here
I like them, nice rigid plastic with drainage screens molded in. They sell a variety of sizes. If you really don’t want to spend tons of money, Home Depot has terra cotta pots for cheap. Not the best option for bonsai but they make due short term.

After a quick look on Wikipedia it looks like C. macrocarpa is a plum native to the shores of Southern Africa and can tolerate down to around mid to low 20s, but only when they’re more mature. What is your plan for wintering them? Or do you plan to keep them indoors indefinitely?
Thank you for the guidance! I think I might err on the side of caution and wait to repot them since they look to be doing ok.

I have them on a humidity tray on a shelf in a south facing window at the moment so I think the Carissa might be indoors for this winter. If need be, I have a small uncovered balcony setup I can put it on outside.
 

bonsaiboi

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Whether to repot now depends on two things:

1. Are they in good soil? If so, you can definitely wait until warm weather next year. This is the safest course. If they are in really bad soil (poor drainage) then an emergency repot is needed. Use a somwhat larger container, bonsai or typical pot.
2. How will you keep them over the winter? Both species like to be repotted when actively growing. This means warmth and bright light. A warm greenhouse or indoors with good artificial light will work.

Thanks for letting us know you are in New England. It is a challenge to keep tropical bonsai in good condition over the winter in cold climates, so be cautious. I grow both species, and they are easy and good first choices for a beginner. My first bonsai was a Carissa, acquired in 1975. It survived my decades of ignorance and I still have it.
Awesome to know you started with a Carissa as well! I think they’re in good soil at the moment so maybe I’ll hold off for the time being.

The Carissa is in a south facing window and on a humidity tray, should I add artificial lightening as well?
 

Dav4

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As a rule, tropicals should be re-potted in summer, particularly in northern climates. Re-potting now would really weaken the trees right at the worst time of year vitality wise. You should wait.
 

Paradox

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I recently came into possession of two pre-bonsai. One Carissa Macrocarpa and one Ficus Microcarpa (Tigerbark Fig).

Each is currently in a ~4” plastic pot. Should I move them into a dedicated bonsai pot or should I wait?

I feel like I should repot but given my novice status I’m unsure if I should wait until the spring to do so?

Thank you!

No I would not repot them now. The best time for you to repot a tropical in your climate would be around 4th of July.
 

LanceMac10

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New England is a pretty big swath of territory/micro-climates.....but would seem your down in CT. or something?

Re-pot a tropical? If it's warm enough to bring outdoors, within a week or two of that I'll work the tree, top and bottom. Mid May?
 

Michael P

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The Carissa is in a south facing window and on a humidity tray, should I add artificial lightening as well?

Winter days are short in New England, and the sunlight is weak. Adding artificial light will definitely help. The lights should run 12 to 18 hours every day.
 

Colorado

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I don’t know exactly what you mean by “humidity tray,” but I definitely would not put the plants in standing water. You don’t need any sort of “humidity tray.”

Water the trees until water runs out the bottom of the pot, and then place it back in the window.
 

BunjaeKorea

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A humidity tray at this time isn't really needed and wet feet in winter means dead trees. Also, pictures help a lot when trying to give advice. Right now I have no idea about the soil etc so giving advice is pretty wishy washy. Ficus tend to be easy annoyed when it comes to lighting, they will throw off all their leaves in some cases when the level of light changes and then put out a new set for their new location. You would also need to turn them periodically to stop lean to as they reach for light.
The Natal plum is going to be annoyed by a balcony but should be fine. Remember stagnant air kills trees. Make sure there is some kind of ventilation/ air flow.
Both of these are from the Sub-Tropical to Tropical range and repotting them in winter (unless the soil has an issue) will not be doing them any favours. That's my two cents.
 

Forsoothe!

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Repotting in autumn is unnecessary. If the soil holds too much water, then water less often and with less water.
 

Paradox

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I don’t know exactly what you mean by “humidity tray,” but I definitely would not put the plants in standing water. You don’t need any sort of “humidity tray.”

Water the trees until water runs out the bottom of the pot, and then place it back in the window.

All of my tropicals have holes in the bottom of their pots so I have a tray under them to keep the rug from getting wet when I water them.
There is some water in those trays most of the time and I have all the pots supported on 2 inch x 2 inch tiles to keep them up out of the water and to help with draining.
However I have gone away for a week and have taken the pots off the little tiles and filled the trays with water so they didnt dry out and the trees were fine after a week of that.
Of course my soil is inorganic and very good draining and doesnt hold a lot of water.
 

Michael P

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There is a distinction between a humidity tray and a plant saucer/drip tray. A humidity tray is designed to keep the bottoms of the pots dry and definitely not in contact with any water. This is what we want for bonsai. I use them under all my tropical bonsai during the winter, mainly because it makes the trees easy to water, and I like the look of the humidity trays I use. Whether they significantly increase humidity around the trees is an open question.
 
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