Sick Japanese Maple — What Can Be Done?

Grunge_Bonsai

Yamadori
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Macon, Georgia
USDA Zone
8b
I trunk chopped this maple back in late February (early Spring here in Georgia), and it had some great early Spring growth.

Now, after some rounds of pruning, it started to wilt quite a bit. This started when the sun came out in force in May, so I had moved it to a part-sun location. I also reduced watering frequency. This seemed to stall it even more, so I moved it back to full sun a week or so ago.

The leaves continued to be destroyed or fall off completely. So I sprayed it with Neem oil. Pulled a grub or two off of it today.

It is just in pitiful shape — does this look like overwatering, too much sun, or some kind of infection? Any help appreciated as this was going to be a promising tree.
 

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I think it’s related to overworking it. Although I think the overall care could be partly the reason as well. Understanding the health of the tree will help gauge what you can do to it. You can’t repeatedly cut new growth on the tree. It looks like you’ve robbed the tree of it’s energy. And that is why it is having problems growing new foliage. An easy way to understand is the new leaves and branches are an investment. It does this to gain back more energy from photosynthesis. So cutting off new branches and leaves is a loss to its overall health.

And by summer Japanese maples foliage and new branches harden off. Making them able to deal with the heat better, rather than new soft branches and foliage which dry out easier and quicker.

But in general simply taking too much energy away from the tree will lead it to also be susceptible to disease, mold, pests, etc.

It’s common to defoliate a bonsai. As well as pinch and prune. But on a healthy tree that is receiving proper fertilizer and care.

Soil is a more complicated subject to me at least. I have healthy maples in potting soil in a large container. And have had others do poor in those conditions. But with a well draining soil you can’t go wrong. Specially with proper watering and fertilizing techniques. It’s good to drench the soil at least daily to replace any still or standing water in the container. As well as gas exchange as the water percolates through the roots and soil. Replenishing oxygen into the soil for the health and roots.

I would allow the tree only morning sun like 4 hours. With potting soil you can overwater the soil and it will be constantly soggy. Also when you such a large root mass for such a small tree with little foliage the roots will not be needed to keep the tree hydrated so that poses a problem as well. Could be why the soil isn’t drying out. Doing any root work would probably kill it at this time. Live and learn. I’d contemplate putting it in the ground for a couple years to regain health. It’s grafted so for bonsai an air layer is probably in it’s future.
 
Japanese maples don't like wet feet. It looks like you maybe have it in standard potting soil. They do better in a more porous soil that doesn't hold a ton of water. With the hot weather we're having lately, you may feel inclined to water the tree constantly, but you have to let it dry out to some degree before watering again. For a plant that's in standard potting soil, it's better to give it a good soaking, then just leave it alone until the top 3 or 4 inches of soil have dried out before giving it any more water. Also, once you have a bunch of leaves dropping off like you've got, then that's less water in the soil being used by the tree, so overwatering becomes a real danger.

It also seems that since you did a trunk chop earlier this year, followed by heavy pruning, that has overstressed the tree. When you said that the tree "stalled" after you reduced watering and moved it to a shady location, it was doing this because it just took some major hits and needed ample time to recover. Neem oil is great stuff when used in appropriate situations, but I wouldn't hose down a heavily stressed tree with it. I would just check it daily for any pests and remove them manually. They're probably showing up because the tree is not doing well. JMs can take some heavy pruning when they're healthy, but you can't cut all the new growth on the branches. You need to leave some sets of the new leaves behind when pruning. Like if a branch spits out 5 or 6 new sets of leaves in the spring, you can get away with trimming back 2 or 3. Don't cut all of them.

I'd throttle back on the water, and put this tree in a place where it gets no more than 2-3 hours of morning sun, followed by shade for the rest of the day. Leave it like this until it recovers, then a little more sun is OK. We're about to get into the hottest time of the year, and most Japanese maples don't like tons of sun as it is, with a few exceptions. A sick tree REALLY doesn't want to get a lot of sun because it can't handle the stress. I also would not do any more work on it this year. Right now, it's not a bonsai that's in danger of dying. It's a standard tree that's in danger of dying, so just focus on saving it as a tree for right now. Then, if it recovers fully, I would repot it next spring into a soil mix that is more porous and doesn't hold as much water. If you want to leave it in a pot as opposed to putting it in the ground to grow out, you can use a soil mix that is 2 parts standard potting soil, 2 parts "in-ground" tree and shrub soil, and 1 part sand. The "in-ground" soil doesn't hold as much water as standard potting soil, and this combined with the sand makes it harder to overwater potted plants. I've had success with this mixture for a long time for trees that are growing out in nursery pots and for many of my porch and patio trees that are in large decorative pots. It holds enough moisture so that I'm not watering every single day, but it dries out fast enough to keep the roots from getting soggy.

Japanese maples are beautiful and very rewarding, but often finnicky and/or fragile trees. Good luck and keep us posted!
 
I think it’s related to overworking it. Although I think the overall care could be partly the reason as well. Understanding the health of the tree will help gauge what you can do to it. You can’t repeatedly cut new growth on the tree. It looks like you’ve robbed the tree of it’s energy. And that is why it is having problems growing new foliage. An easy way to understand is the new leaves and branches are an investment. It does this to gain back more energy from photosynthesis. So cutting off new branches and leaves is a loss to its overall health.

And by summer Japanese maples foliage and new branches harden off. Making them able to deal with the heat better, rather than new soft branches and foliage which dry out easier and quicker.

But in general simply taking too much energy away from the tree will lead it to also be susceptible to disease, mold, pests, etc.

It’s common to defoliate a bonsai. As well as pinch and prune. But on a healthy tree that is receiving proper fertilizer and care.

Soil is a more complicated subject to me at least. I have healthy maples in potting soil in a large container. And have had others do poor in those conditions. But with a well draining soil you can’t go wrong. Specially with proper watering and fertilizing techniques. It’s good to drench the soil at least daily to replace any still or standing water in the container. As well as gas exchange as the water percolates through the roots and soil. Replenishing oxygen into the soil for the health and roots.

I would allow the tree only morning sun like 4 hours. With potting soil you can overwater the soil and it will be constantly soggy. Also when you such a large root mass for such a small tree with little foliage the roots will not be needed to keep the tree hydrated so that poses a problem as well. Could be why the soil isn’t drying out. Doing any root work would probably kill it at this time. Live and learn. I’d contemplate putting it in the ground for a couple years to regain health. It’s grafted so for bonsai an air layer is probably in it’s future.
Agreed, I saw this as an opportunity to layer above the graft, and it is indeed my first maple (first ever deciduous tree, actually).

I have a Yoshino Cherry that I have successfully layered that is absolutely exploding right now with new growth.

When I got this tree months ago, I trunk chopped and it pushed all of that growth (could have been built up energy in the root mass / trunk). I appreciate the insights about the tree’s “investment” and not chopping back new growth.

Pruning is fine, I am sure, but I removed branches trying to avoid “creating bulge”. Should have played the longer game, and just developed it as an air layer mother tree.

This may be a live and learn situation — sad, because I do love this cultivar. It should have been repotted first, and then probably layered in the growing season. I will know better in the future.

THANK YOU for your input!
 
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Japanese maples don't like wet feet. It looks like you maybe have it in standard potting soil. They do better in a more porous soil that doesn't hold a ton of water. With the hot weather we're having lately, you may feel inclined to water the tree constantly, but you have to let it dry out to some degree before watering again. For a plant that's in standard potting soil, it's better to give it a good soaking, then just leave it alone until the top 3 or 4 inches of soil have dried out before giving it any more water. Also, once you have a bunch of leaves dropping off like you've got, then that's less water in the soil being used by the tree, so overwatering becomes a real danger.

It also seems that since you did a trunk chop earlier this year, followed by heavy pruning, that has overstressed the tree. When you said that the tree "stalled" after you reduced watering and moved it to a shady location, it was doing this because it just took some major hits and needed ample time to recover. Neem oil is great stuff when used in appropriate situations, but I wouldn't hose down a heavily stressed tree with it. I would just check it daily for any pests and remove them manually. They're probably showing up because the tree is not doing well. JMs can take some heavy pruning when they're healthy, but you can't cut all the new growth on the branches. You need to leave some sets of the new leaves behind when pruning. Like if a branch spits out 5 or 6 new sets of leaves in the spring, you can get away with trimming back 2 or 3. Don't cut all of them.

I'd throttle back on the water, and put this tree in a place where it gets no more than 2-3 hours of morning sun, followed by shade for the rest of the day. Leave it like this until it recovers, then a little more sun is OK. We're about to get into the hottest time of the year, and most Japanese maples don't like tons of sun as it is, with a few exceptions. A sick tree REALLY doesn't want to get a lot of sun because it can't handle the stress. I also would not do any more work on it this year. Right now, it's not a bonsai that's in danger of dying. It's a standard tree that's in danger of dying, so just focus on saving it as a tree for right now. Then, if it recovers fully, I would repot it next spring into a soil mix that is more porous and doesn't hold as much water. If you want to leave it in a pot as opposed to putting it in the ground to grow out, you can use a soil mix that is 2 parts standard potting soil, 2 parts "in-ground" tree and shrub soil, and 1 part sand. The "in-ground" soil doesn't hold as much water as standard potting soil, and this combined with the sand makes it harder to overwater potted plants. I've had success with this mixture for a long time for trees that are growing out in nursery pots and for many of my porch and patio trees that are in large decorative pots. It holds enough moisture so that I'm not watering every single day, but it dries out fast enough to keep the roots from getting soggy.

Japanese maples are beautiful and very rewarding, but often finnicky and/or fragile trees. Good luck and keep us posted!
Given that the soil in our yard is dense red clay, I want to develop this particular root system in a pot (*if it survives).

I think it may be able to recover by the end of the summer, but given that the new growth has been seriously cut back (big beginner’s mistake), I am rolling the dice just to keep it alive at this point.

It’s wild because it was handling nearly daily watering well, even with the chunky potting mix it came in. I think the major culprit here was overworking, branch reduction when it got all of that growth. I assumed incorrectly that it was vigorous enough to withstand that kind of cutting back.

Next time I will let the growth stay through the end of the growing season before doing any major cut back, only pruning back small amounts without removing entire branches at a time until the Fall / Early Spring.

I’ll put it in a spot with mellow morning sun, and see if it can make it. Not looking good, though. . .
 
Agreed, I saw this as an opportunity to layer above the graft, and it is indeed my first maple (first ever deciduous tree, actually).

I have a Yoshino Cherry that I have successfully layered that is absolutely exploding right now with new growth.

When I got this tree months ago, I trunk chopped and it pushed all of that growth (could have been built up energy in the root mass / trunk). I appreciate the insights about the tree’s “investment” and not chopping back new growth.

Pruning is fine, I am sure, but I removed branches trying to avoid “creating bulge”. Should have played the longer game, and just developed it as an air layer mother tree.

This may be a live and learn situation — sad, because I do love this cultivar. It should have been repotted first, and then probably layered in the growing season. I will know better in the future.

THANK YOU for your input!
I’ve made the same mistakes with nursery jm’s before. It is experience gained.

If you get a nursery jm to layer during spring. Just simply layer the branches you want. Would be wise to wait until growth is hardened off. You can even do 1/4” thick branches. And let them gain some vigor before working. Usually a full year of unrestricted growth. Then you can start developing. Or simply growing out. You want to visually be able to tell the tree is growing healthy. And has reserves.
 
Be cautious when you do aggressive pruning on JM that you seal the scars to prevent fungus from getting a foothold. In a perfect world you would cut back to a bud or lower branch, seal the wound, and the tree would heal over the wound site quickly. If you chop the trunk without having a plan of how the tree will heal, and if you leave the cut site open, the trunk can start to die back - and once it starts dying back it may be difficult to stop.

You will see lots of examples on this site of people with JM with poorly healed scars, where the best option is to re-prune or re-open the scar site, cut the margin of the wound back to healthy tissue, and then re-seal the wound.
 
Be cautious when you do aggressive pruning on JM that you seal the scars to prevent fungus from getting a foothold. In a perfect world you would cut back to a bud or lower branch, seal the wound, and the tree would heal over the wound site quickly. If you chop the trunk without having a plan of how the tree will heal, and if you leave the cut site open, the trunk can start to die back - and once it starts dying back it may be difficult to stop.

You will see lots of examples on this site of people with JM with poorly healed scars, where the best option is to re-prune or re-open the scar site, cut the margin of the wound back to healthy tissue, and then re-seal the wound.
Thanks. I did seal it with cut paste, but only after it started bleeding sap for about two weeks. Then it seemed fine for a couple of months — until now. Trunk seems to be dying back a few inches now.

All beginner mistakes that will not be repeated. I have it in an area of my garage that gets exactly 3 hours of morning sun only right now. I also worked the soil with a chopstick to try to improve drainage for when I water it.

Looking pretty bad, though, so I’m not expecting a miracle, here. Lessons learned.
 

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