Small oak

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Omono
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Maybe just repot this year and cutback in season after you see the leaf size...
 

barrosinc

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Maybe just repot this year and cutback in season after you see the leaf size...
Thanks.
Yes, definitely will repot this year to see.
Cutback is a given also.
Leaves will get smaller in time with ramification but the leaves on the soil look quite decent.
 

JoeR

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I like it, nice trade. First things first, remove the straight section of the middle trunk, and hoist the left trunk away/down some. The rest of the design will be easier to identify then.
 

fredman

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Nice trade. I like smaller trees. Agree the only fault I can see is that straight and long section. 3 trunks is like triplets...more work and more fun 👍
 

JoeR

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Depending how the nebari looks, there are two options I see; one more formal as an upright clump and the other a more dramatic angle for a cresent bowl pot or a mound planting on a slab. Somewhat like an oak leaning over a river or creek
 

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JoeR

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styling also depends on how small the leaves are. Probably not large given the branching. If they're too big a shohin wouldn't work so it would need grown out, something to consider.

Resembles white oak, which would be good.
 
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Potawatomi13

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"Maybe" Quercus robur as leaves very similar. Personal suggestion is larger tree for leaves proportion to tree size;).
 

sorce

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Like that

I think removing so much makes this to stale, perhaps take it down to those 2 smaller branches, allowing it some Height, while taking off the uglier clump up top.

Then I see the other ugly clump, which should also be slated for removal, so cut accordingly.

Looks like someone let it go a bit too much in those areas, but now that you know it happens, prevention should be diligent.

Looks like the 3fer on the right trunk should be reduced too.

Umm....Nice!

Sorce
 

barrosinc

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I think removing so much makes this to stale, perhaps take it down to those 2 smaller branches, allowing it some Height, while taking off the uglier clump up top.

Then I see the other ugly clump, which should also be slated for removal, so cut accordingly.

Looks like someone let it go a bit too much in those areas, but now that you know it happens, prevention should be diligent.

Looks like the 3fer on the right trunk should be reduced too.

Umm....Nice!

Sorce
Thanks, Sorce.
It is a good learning lesson as how it gets bulky at certain sites.
 

barrosinc

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Thanks M5!
I probably wont.
Do these mind getting barerooted?
 

barrosinc

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Bonsai4me says they don't really like it.


In the UK, it must be one of the most common deciduous tree species alongside Beech, Hawthorn and Birch. However, as with Birch, the English Oak can prove to be a surprisingly difficult tree to cultivate for bonsai.
The most common difficulty I have experienced with English Oak centres around its negative reaction to root disturbance. While finding most other UK natives easy to collect from the wild, I would find that Oak had a high tendency to fail, those that did survive through to the following Spring would often suffer dieback of some, or all of, the branches.


What should I do?
 

BobbyLane

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why do you need to bareroot it?
when you repot leave some of the old soil around the roots if you want it to recover quickly.
btw the b4m article is in regards to collecting oaks from the wild.
im pretty sure he goes on to say he has better success collecting them in aug but im not reading it again!
 

fredman

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Bonsai4me says they don't really like it.


In the UK, it must be one of the most common deciduous tree species alongside Beech, Hawthorn and Birch. However, as with Birch, the English Oak can prove to be a surprisingly difficult tree to cultivate for bonsai.
The most common difficulty I have experienced with English Oak centres around its negative reaction to root disturbance. While finding most other UK natives easy to collect from the wild, I would find that Oak had a high tendency to fail, those that did survive through to the following Spring would often suffer dieback of some, or all of, the branches.


What should I do?
TBH I don't know about your oak. What I do know is, after I read the above 3 years ago I repotted my English oak from a bigger container to a smaller one well after it opened it's leaves....it was almost fully extended. I trimmed a good amount of roots to get it into the smaller container too...also did the top. I was terrified to say the least, but it didn't miss a beat.
As Bobby said...it's only for English oaks.
This year i'm reluctant to do it again. It'll go into the same container so don't have to trim that much leaves.
 

BobbyLane

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are you familiar with mycorrhiza? oaks tend to become established in pots when it is present.

i only cut around the edges and base when this one went into the oval and there was mycorrhiza present in the old soil, the soil wasnt great but barerooting would have set the tree back and removed all the beneficial fungi.
 
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barrosinc

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why do you need to bareroot it?
when you repot leave some of the old soil around the roots if you want it to recover quickly.
btw the b4m article is in regards to collecting oaks from the wild.
im pretty sure he goes on to say he has better success collecting them in aug but im not reading it again!
I just like my trees out of organic soil because I use automatic watering systems and hate having part of the soil too wet.
 

Wires_Guy_wires

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I just like my trees out of organic soil because I use automatic watering systems and hate having part of the soil too wet.
I would not worry too much. Quercus robur grows well in free draining sand, but they don't mind swamps either.
A good coarse drainage layer is sufficient for my robur oaks, which are in a 50-70% organic soil for 2 years.
 
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