Soil Composition

[jimlau]

What is the 1 type of ingredient that is sort of similar to kitty litter, or oil clean-up? It would be for a Japanese maple.

Thanks.

 

[Ben in Kzoo]

Maybe Akadama since it is a fired clay too?

 

[jimlau]

Maybe Akadama since it is a fired clay too?

Ok, I can go with that, unless there is a cheaper alternative that is good enough.

 

[coltranem]

What are trying to do with the tree and what want this particle to do.

 

[jimlau]

What are trying to do with the tree and what want this particle to do.

Getting a large maple bare root, so I need to make a mix for it that is best for Japanese or trident maples.

 

[jimlau]

Would a bonsai mix with these ingredients work? Peat moss, perlite, worm castings, mulch, horticultural charcoal.

 

[leatherback]

Just use pumice with bark.
The components you mention there are all going to clog up the substrate.

 

[coltranem]

Getting a large maple bare root, so I need to make a mix for it that is best for Japanese or trident maples.

Are you planning on growing it out or putting it in a bonsai pot?

 

[jimlau]

Are you planning on growing it out or putting it in a bonsai pot?

Not in a bonsai pot. Looking for rapid growth this year.

 

[coltranem]

So you are probably good with bark and pumice or perlite. My maples are growing out in this.

 

[dbonsaiw]

I have my JMs in 40% pumice, 40% calcined clay and 20% pine bark. I've never used akadama, but I would get some advice from people in your area before purchasing as I understand it may not perform as well in our northeast winters.

 

[jimlau]

I have my JMs in 40% pumice, 40% calcined clay and 20% pine bark. I've never used akadama, but I would get some advice from people in your area before purchasing as I understand it may not perform as well in our northeast winters.

I am in the northeast. So your ingredients should work?

 

[dbonsaiw]

I am in the northeast. So your ingredients should work?

Works for me. You don't need the clay and can go with just pumice and bark, but I order the Bonsai Jack Universal Mix and that's how it comes. To be sure, people swear by akadama and have amazing results. We have a lot of freeze/thaw cycles and I understand that may contribute to the akadama becoming a giant clump of clay.

I'm probably putting a big "kick me" sign on my back, but I would not stress the soil composition too much at this point. You want it to be well draining, but still retain enough water that your plants don't suffer in the summer months before you have a chance to water again. Watering is an important bonsai skill that needs to be learned. You will eventually begin to see when the tree needs water, but first order of business is not to let it dry out. Too much water is also a problem, but less of an issue than too little (trees can die on a hot summer day, but it could take months to develop problems from overwatering).

There are ultimately any number of possible soil combinations and you can tweak your soil composition to better meet your tree's specific needs as time goes on. One of the important things to remember is that your choice of soil, on the one hand, and watering/fertilizing, on the other, go hand in hand. The less organics you use, the more you will need to water. More organics, less watering. Once you get a good handle on this, you can begin to change things around as needed. Lose sleep on finding good starting material, not the soil.

 

[jimlau]

Works for me. You don't need the clay and can go with just pumice and bark, but I order the Bonsai Jack Universal Mix and that's how it comes. To be sure, people swear by akadama and have amazing results. We have a lot of freeze/thaw cycles and I understand that may contribute to the akadama becoming a giant clump of clay.

I'm probably putting a big "kick me" sign on my back, but I would not stress the soil composition too much at this point. You want it to be well draining, but still retain enough water that your plants don't suffer in the summer months before you have a chance to water again. Watering is an important bonsai skill that needs to be learned. You will eventually begin to see when the tree needs water, but first order of business is not to let it dry out. Too much water is also a problem, but less of an issue than too little (trees can die on a hot summer day, but it could take months to develop problems from overwatering).

There are ultimately any number of possible soil combinations and you can tweak your soil composition to better meet your tree's specific needs as time goes on. One of the important things to remember is that your choice of soil, on the one hand, and watering/fertilizing, on the other, go hand in hand. The less organics you use, the more you will need to water. More organics, less watering. Once you get a good handle on this, you can begin to change things around as needed. Lose sleep on finding good starting material, not the soil.

What kind of fertilizer ratios do you use?

 

[dbonsaiw]

What kind of fertilizer ratios do you use?

Word to the wise, I too am a newbie. Excited to share, but a newb. That said, I use Bonsai Pro liquid fertilizer and use it as directed - 1/4 teaspoon per gallon. I'll mix up 15 gallons at a time (I have a number of trees at this point). I tend to throw in some Osmocite slow release as well. I'm still figuring out just how much to fertilize, but I tend to go heavy and will use it at least once a week, usually more often (all of my trees are in development). In fact, there are times I'll use it at every watering if I am trying to encourage a lot of growth. But we do have to watch out for salt buildup from too much fert.

I have a little OCD when it comes to watering, and watering by me means biblical deluge, so I tend to wash out a good deal of the previous fert application and feel comfortable hitting it with another dose. I go through quite a few of those little Bonsai Pro bottles each season. I tend to first water heavily and then hit everything with the fert.

But that's just me. I know that many of the practitioners whose work I respect use organic fert. I personally can't stand the smell and feel I have more control over the liquid. If I make a mistake, I can just flush the soil. Bonsai Pro also has all of the trace nutrients you need.

For me, the soil and fert I use are just fine. It's my skills that are lacking, not the materials I am using. As far as I can tell, Bonsai Pro is like steroids for trees. Here's what a seedling looks after being (over?) fertilized with bonsai pro for an extended period. It's growing at 1 foot per month and is now about 2 1/2 feet tall. If I fertilize in the morning, I can literally see the growth by the time I get home from work. It's nuts.

 

[jimlau]

So you are probably good with bark and pumice or perlite. My maples are growing out in this.

What kind of bark? Does it matter if it's pine or orchid...?

 

[coltranem]

I get composted pine bark from a local nursery.

 

[jimlau]

I get composted pine bark from a local nursery.

Just use pumice with bark.
The components you mention there are all going to clog up the substrate.

I'm have bark and perlite. That's all I need, in equal parts? Not very important, but the white perlite is not very attractive.

Btw, is it possible for bark pieces to be too big? Many seem to be about 1" x 1/2" x 1/8". This mixture will go into about a 4 gallon pot, for a green Japanese maple.

Thanks.

 

[jimlau]

No need for pumice or fired clay?

 

[leatherback]

use pumice

No need for pumice

ehm..

is it possible for bark pieces to be too big?

Yup. THey should have the same size as the pumice kernals you use.