Soil considerations for cascade pot.

[The Warm Canuck]

Hello everyone,

I will be repotting my Juniper Nana into a cascade pot that's 7"x7"x 14"deep. The juniper is currently in nursery soil and is still in development, I'd like to get it out of the nursery soil and into a more aesthetic pot and some bonsai soil.

Does the depth of the cascade pot change the soil particle size requirements? What size should I use? I usually use a 1/8"-3/16", lavaumice:bark, at 2:2:1. Should i go bigger?

 

[River's Edge]

Hello everyone,

I will be repotting my Juniper Nana into a cascade pot that's 7"x7"x 14"deep. The juniper is currently in nursery soil and is still in development, I'd like to get it out of the nursery soil and into a more aesthetic pot and some bonsai soil.

Does the depth of the cascade pot change the soil particle size requirements? What size should I use? I usually use a 1/8"-3/16", lavaumice:bark, at 2:2:1. Should i go bigger?

The particle size can stay the same throughout for the most even drainage. I think your size range is appropriate. I would use a drainage layer in the bottom because that is my personal preference particularly in deeper pots, I feel that it allows for better gas exchange and drier feet. Juniper can benefit from both. As long as there is not a large size discrepancy between the mix and the drainage layer one does not need to be concerned over a perched water table. I tend to use slightly larger (1/2) pumice for the drainage layer and usually 2 to 3 particles deep.
Just my practice, works well for me.

 

[Japonicus]

Taller pots like this are difficult to water properly.
My procumbens is 28" from apex to apex including a 4.5 to 5" semi cascade pot.

Your Vote - which pot for my Cascade

Rayner pot. No questions.

www.bonsainut.com

Pg.1 shows the 2 different pots I considered.
I have one of those really tall ones, but the bottom was bone dry last time I took a nana out of it.
In fact the bottom 1/2 was dry.

How are you planning to secure the pot? It will be very top heavy, and unbalanced.
If you do use the 14" tall pot, be prepared with a back up pot in case this one busts when it falls over.
I had a gust of wind blow over a nice shimpaku about 4:30 am today in a 3.5" tall oval.
It blew off my bench onto the deck, it happens.

 

[Paradox]

Hello everyone,

I will be repotting my Juniper Nana into a cascade pot that's 7"x7"x 14"deep. The juniper is currently in nursery soil and is still in development, I'd like to get it out of the nursery soil and into a more aesthetic pot and some bonsai soil.

Does the depth of the cascade pot change the soil particle size requirements? What size should I use? I usually use a 1/8"-3/16", lavaumice:bark, at 2:2:1. Should i go bigger?

If this tree is still in the nursery container, I would move it to an intermediate pot for a few years to continue development before going to a smaller bonsai pot. Going from a nursery container straight to a bonsai pot usually requires pretty severe root reduction which isn't advisable. Better to do it in stages

 

[The Warm Canuck]

The particle size can stay the same throughout for the most even drainage. I think your size range is appropriate. I would use a drainage layer in the bottom because that is my personal preference particularly in deeper pots, I feel that it allows for better gas exchange and drier feet. Juniper can benefit from both. As long as there is not a large size discrepancy between the mix and the drainage layer one does not need to be concerned over a perched water table. I tend to use slightly larger (1/2) pumice for the drainage layer and usually 2 to 3 particles deep.
Just my practice, works well for me.

Thanks Frank. What do you do with your larger soil particles? I would assume, you must end up with a lot after the amount you sift. Or do you buy specific particles sizes?

Taller pots like this are difficult to water properly.
My procumbens is 28" from apex to apex including a 4.5 to 5" semi cascade pot.

Your Vote - which pot for my Cascade

Rayner pot. No questions.

www.bonsainut.com

Pg.1 shows the 2 different pots I considered.
I have one of those really tall ones, but the bottom was bone dry last time I took a nana out of it.
In fact the bottom 1/2 was dry.

How are you planning to secure the pot? It will be very top heavy, and unbalanced.
If you do use the 14" tall pot, be prepared with a back up pot in case this one busts when it falls over.
I had a gust of wind blow over a nice shimpaku about 4:30 am today in a 3.5" tall oval.
It blew off my bench onto the deck, it happens.

It's a Mica pot, but thank you for your observation, maybe I should think of drilling it to a decorative bottom plate or something.

If this tree is still in the nursery container, I would move it to an intermediate pot for a few years to continue development before going to a smaller bonsai pot. Going from a nursery container straight to a bonsai pot usually requires pretty severe root reduction which isn't advisable. Better to do it in stages

I'll take this into concideration, however, as the pot is 7"x7"x14" I may be able to keep a lot of the roots, I'll see when i get it out of the pot.

 

[River's Edge]

Thanks Frank. What do you do with your larger soil particles? I would assume, you must end up with a lot after the amount you sift. Or do you buy specific particles sizes?


It's a Mica pot, but thank you for your observation, maybe I should think of drilling it to a decorative bottom plate or something.

I'll take this into concideration, however, as the pot is 7"x7"x14" I may be able to keep a lot of the roots, I'll see when i get it out of the pot.

For cost effectiveness I purchase components that are pre sifted to certain size ranges and then sift for particular needs. I found it too much work and wastage of marterial to purchase bulk products by the cubic yard or large container. False economy for my situation. I have a lot of trees to maintain and develop. My time worth considering in the overall coast.

 

[Japonicus]

It's a Mica pot, but thank you for your observation, maybe I should think of drilling it to a decorative bottom plate or something.

Mica does drill quite easily. I put screw eyes/hooks in the top edge to move branches down that I
don't want to wire for whatever reason.

I see few fixes to combat the top heavy issue. The base could be screwed to a subject that is also screwed down
so it won't tip/knock over.

You could have wire passing through the bottom and around a cinder block
but that's not from my experience. The height still will have leverage, so it depends on the base holding
and not allowing the pot to pivot on the wire from the leverage. Maybe 2 wires, one from in each corner.

Being drill-able you could use an exterior fastener so you could run a single safety chain/tether to an upright fixture.

I've lost 3 or 4 procumbens in last 22+ yrs. One came out of this pot...

I guess I keep it around as some sort of novelty thing, but will never use it again.
It's 12.75 x 6.
The inside depth issue is an issue (redundancy intended).
I love my mica pots. Have seen the shorter semi cascade pot, but has never been cost effective for me @$90 IIRC.
Would love to have one though. Mica is bullet proof for me, but I'm not using it for target practice

 

[The Warm Canuck]

Mica does drill quite easily. I put screw eyes/hooks in the top edge to move branches down that I
don't want to wire for whatever reason.

I see few fixes to combat the top heavy issue. The base could be screwed to a subject that is also screwed down
so it won't tip/knock over.

You could have wire passing through the bottom and around a cinder block
but that's not from my experience. The height still will have leverage, so it depends on the base holding
and not allowing the pot to pivot on the wire from the leverage. Maybe 2 wires, one from in each corner.

Being drill-able you could use an exterior fastener so you could run a single safety chain/tether to an upright fixture.

I've lost 3 or 4 procumbens in last 22+ yrs. One came out of this pot...
View attachment 436902 View attachment 436903
I guess I keep it around as some sort of novelty thing, but will never use it again.
It's 12.75 x 6.
The inside depth issue is an issue (redundancy intended).
I love my mica pots. Have seen the shorter semi cascade pot, but has never been cost effective for me @$90 IIRC.
Would love to have one though. Mica is bullet proof for me, but I'm not using it for target practice

Thanks for your insight. My order for my pot hadn't shipped yet, so I was able to change it to a 10"x10"x10". This should be more staple.



Yes the pots are pricey, but it's the safest bet in the winters here. Nothing worse than buying a nice pot, then finding it cracked over the winter.

 

[Japonicus]

Thanks for your insight. My order for my pot hadn't shipped yet, so I was able to change it to a 10"x10"x10". This should be more staple.

View attachment 436938

Yes the pots are pricey, but it's the safest bet in the winters here. Nothing worse than buying a nice pot, then finding it cracked over the winter.

That will be perfect to train a 3 gallon nursery juniper right out of the can.
If it's a 1 or 2 gallon, don't remove too much roots. Keep something stout in the crown
to tether the root ball to the pots bottom with wire. Don't mound soil above the rim
in a way that it can wash out when you water.
10" wide is going to be huge, but figure on 9x9x8 inside I.D.
but I think your soil will be a good bit easier to get watered more evenly.
Definitely one of those pots you will water twice or more in one watering session.