I have 3 named cultivars of Jack pine, P. banksiana. 'Manoment', 'Chippewa' and 'Schoodic', all are grafted, as it is the only way to get named varieties, because Jack pines simply do not air layer or root from cuttings. As a species I think Jack pine is proving pretty good for bonsai. I assume all 3 of my cultivars are on scotts pine understock, so I have found them easy to transplant and repot, that may be the influence of the P. sylvestris root stock. I do have a number of seedling P. banksiana, and seedlings have been perfectly "typical" in terms of handling repotting and root pruning. No difference from the seedlings and my other pines in how they handle repotting. Collected Jack pines are notorious for being touchy, and having a low survival rate. But seedlings and grafted trees seem fine, reasonably tolerant of "normal bonsai work".
Jack pine is a pine that needs a sharp cold winter. Its native range is almost entirely restricted to zone 5 and colder. These areas do not have long hot summers. I can not say whether that will be a problem in Oklahoma or not. If they are being sold at a local landscape nursery, I suspect they will be fine.
All 3 of my cultivars have shorter than typical needles, and shorter internodes. I have not owned an 'Uncle Fogy', but the needle length on seedling P. banksiana seems workable, only a little longer than sylvestris needles.
I would look at the graft union of the 'Uncle Fogy', if the graft union looks like it is healing well, and will fade with time, I would give it a try. If the graft union is mismatched, or looking ugly, I would consider passing on the tree.