Spreading Nebari
- Thread starter Alex DeRuiter
- Start date
gergwebber
Shohin
I have heard of planting on a piece of 1x10 wood with a few 3/4 inch holes drilled through it. This is like planting on tile, but a few roots will go through and beyond allowing the tree to access more water and nutrients. at potting up, the large roots through the holes are cut off much like sacrifice branches. this will also allow for the nailing technique.
I, however, have noticed that the best way to form nebari is to grow in the ground, in the best soil you can build. In my veggie beds I constantly amend with my own compost, and top dress in the fall with mulched leaves to build leaf mold. in the summer I mulch with a combo of straw and grass clippings (I literally dump the straw on the lawn in thin layers and mow with a bag.) High organic matter in the soil allows the roots to bulk up and acquire nutrients without having to move very far.(Organic matter is by far the most efficient transmitter of plant nutrients.) by planting between and under veggies, my bonsai in these bed develop the best nebari in my garden.
I, however, have noticed that the best way to form nebari is to grow in the ground, in the best soil you can build. In my veggie beds I constantly amend with my own compost, and top dress in the fall with mulched leaves to build leaf mold. in the summer I mulch with a combo of straw and grass clippings (I literally dump the straw on the lawn in thin layers and mow with a bag.) High organic matter in the soil allows the roots to bulk up and acquire nutrients without having to move very far.(Organic matter is by far the most efficient transmitter of plant nutrients.) by planting between and under veggies, my bonsai in these bed develop the best nebari in my garden.
FrankP999
Shohin
"When a tree's roots are small, mostly fibrous, or the pot doesn't have anchor holes where they are needed, it's safer for the roots (and more effective) to pin down multiple root sections under skewers rather than anchor a few smaller ones"
Kathy Shaner used this technique on an azalea of mine at a workshop recently. She uses this on trees with weak small rootball.
Kathy Shaner used this technique on an azalea of mine at a workshop recently. She uses this on trees with weak small rootball.
Alex DeRuiter
Chumono
Seems to be a very common topic on the forum right now, but my BRT is also having problems with drying/drooping leaves. There's still a lot of green on the tree, but lots of the leaves have died off and a couple branches have suffered significant dieback, and I will have to redesign the tree a little bit. Pictures later...too...tired. . . .
So long story short, there won't be any repotting/spreading the nebari this season. I brought the tree outside in March when we had unseasonably warm weather and it pushed out TONS of new growth. We had about a week or two of temperatures in the 80's, but that dropped down and I brought the tree back inside under an 8-bulb, 4-foot t5 fixture with less than inadequate humidity levels. While the light levels were probably okay, the humidity is what I think caused this issue.
There's also some which discoloration on the lower section of the trunk, so I'll take picture of what later to see what you guys and gals think.
So long story short, there won't be any repotting/spreading the nebari this season. I brought the tree outside in March when we had unseasonably warm weather and it pushed out TONS of new growth. We had about a week or two of temperatures in the 80's, but that dropped down and I brought the tree back inside under an 8-bulb, 4-foot t5 fixture with less than inadequate humidity levels. While the light levels were probably okay, the humidity is what I think caused this issue.
There's also some which discoloration on the lower section of the trunk, so I'll take picture of what later to see what you guys and gals think.
Alex DeRuiter
Chumono
Pictures as promised, though a little late. I just watered the tree, so the discoloration of which I speak (picture 1) isn't very distinguishable, but you can see a hint of it. The second picture is an overall picture of the tree. I lost a semi-important branch, but if this survives, that can always be regrown; or it can be redesigned. The leaves are obviously drooping because it's night, but they also droop during the day. All this said, they've been maintaining their green color pretty well. I don't see any sign of dormant buds break yet, but I'm hopeful.
