Spruce Styling Challenge
- Thread starter Chris Johnston
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Anonymous User
Banned
No I am not kidding you.
And if the branch can not be bent (straightened) what are you doing with the wire, rebar, guy wires, splines, etc?
Will
Chris Johnston
Omono
The branch cannot be bent like that. I was hoping it could, but of course couldn't put enough force on it to find out without protecting the ancient bark. As it is, it's just a little more protection for the branch and it was moved successfully with the technique I used. Regardless, I have never seen a branch bender that was much use, and I have never seen one that was big enough to do anything to a branch this size!
Here's an photo of the branch finished. It has not been pinched back yet, so the longish growth is a little droopy.
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Chris Johnston
Omono
The black patch is a section of a serpentine belt from an automobile engine. The grooves that run the length of it make it perfect for protecting branches because the wire settles into the groove and will not slip. I drove the screw into the deadwood at the base, but it can be just as easily done between the plates of corky bark on older trees. I don't recommend doing it in deadwood that is going to show, that has been finished, or in the life lines of junipers where the screw hole will show.
The technique for drawing up this guy wire is simple. Instead of twisting the wire, which can break it, I have a partner hold the two ends of the wire behind the screw. While I hold the upper trunk steady and lean on the rebar, he pulls, then relaxes and twists the ends. Then we get another push and he does the same, always pulling, then twisting, never twisting and pulling at the same time, as this can break your wire.
The technique for drawing up this guy wire is simple. Instead of twisting the wire, which can break it, I have a partner hold the two ends of the wire behind the screw. While I hold the upper trunk steady and lean on the rebar, he pulls, then relaxes and twists the ends. Then we get another push and he does the same, always pulling, then twisting, never twisting and pulling at the same time, as this can break your wire.
Chris Johnston
Omono
Thanks, Irene. I innovate a lot just like this by using things other people have taught me...
Chris Johnston
Omono
Those tools are not my favorite. Applying in most cases a lot of crushing pressure to very small areas . Most always causing some sort of cambium damage. I prefer other techniques that produce the same results without risking life lines.
The one technique that I have used in the past is the hollow method. To drill a very small hole at the center spot you want to make the bend. You use this entry spot as a pivot as you egg out the interior wood. The end result is a small entry wood and a larger interior hollow. You then pack the interior wound with sphagnum a little at a time stuffing it in through the hole. This helps when making the bend reinforcing the hollow. Much like the raffia you would apply on the outside prior to bending. You then can use a two point bender or bar to assist you in bending the branch/ trunk. Guy wiring it into place and then removing the bender. Ideally the hole closes up on itself and heals much like the wedge method. Sometimes if you miss the mark and the bend isn't centered on the hole. You can take a small wood plug and fill the hole. The tree will callous over in that spot. I've used this technique to bend a very large cascade juniper trunk that need some movement in it. The spot of the of the bend was just shy of 2.5 inches. I was able to bend this trunk about 20 degrees.
I would stress that if anyone ever attempts this type of bend that they practice first. This is an advanced technique that is really quite simple but requires some feel and intuition. Also the ability to judge how and if the bend will close up on itself.
The one technique that I have used in the past is the hollow method. To drill a very small hole at the center spot you want to make the bend. You use this entry spot as a pivot as you egg out the interior wood. The end result is a small entry wood and a larger interior hollow. You then pack the interior wound with sphagnum a little at a time stuffing it in through the hole. This helps when making the bend reinforcing the hollow. Much like the raffia you would apply on the outside prior to bending. You then can use a two point bender or bar to assist you in bending the branch/ trunk. Guy wiring it into place and then removing the bender. Ideally the hole closes up on itself and heals much like the wedge method. Sometimes if you miss the mark and the bend isn't centered on the hole. You can take a small wood plug and fill the hole. The tree will callous over in that spot. I've used this technique to bend a very large cascade juniper trunk that need some movement in it. The spot of the of the bend was just shy of 2.5 inches. I was able to bend this trunk about 20 degrees.
I would stress that if anyone ever attempts this type of bend that they practice first. This is an advanced technique that is really quite simple but requires some feel and intuition. Also the ability to judge how and if the bend will close up on itself.
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Chris Johnston
Omono
Chris Johnston
Omono
I showed the branch bender because it is being used what it is best used for: not bending the branch, but retaining the bend while allowing the formerly raffia-covered area to be exposed to the sun and air. Of course the dynamic bend was done with the wedge method, using lumber and rebar to apply leverage. When the majority of the work has been done, and it is time to move one, the jack was put in place as insurance.
It's not my tree, and not my work. I am merely reporting.
It's not my tree, and not my work. I am merely reporting.
I appreciate that Chris and do appreciate you taking the time. However isn't your time line backwards or am I reading this wrong? I'm confused about three things, one the 3 point was used to apply the bend or hold it? Two, if the was put into place for insurance after the bender why the bender in the first place.? Seems like a lot of redundant work. Three, the wedge method was used and then lumber was placed over the wedge cut?
Chris Johnston
Omono
The first step was the wedge, spline, raffia, and lumber to set the movement. A couple years later the 3 point bender was put on.
This bender is incapable of producing that much bend in a branch without help. Once a bend is introduced, it can be useful to hold that while letting the bark develop. At least that is my understanding so far, which no doubt has been shown imperfect in the past.
The second photo with raffia was taken in 2003. The one with the bender was taken in 2005. That's as big a branch bender as I have ever seen.
This bender is incapable of producing that much bend in a branch without help. Once a bend is introduced, it can be useful to hold that while letting the bark develop. At least that is my understanding so far, which no doubt has been shown imperfect in the past.
The second photo with raffia was taken in 2003. The one with the bender was taken in 2005. That's as big a branch bender as I have ever seen.
Chris Johnston
Omono
Hi Chris, if you don't mind my two cents. Seems that your fighting this tree. The very large branch midway up the tree is way out of proportion. To be honest, it takes a way from the image. I know you wanted to do something with it, but I think you might have made taming that branch a bit personal and have forsaken the image of the tree to try and work that branch in. I seems there is a good tree inside there. Perhaps if you fall back on basics and try to reduce the image and simplify it will become apparent to you. I did a virt and posted on the other thread not realizing this tree had two threads. Good luck with it. I think you may have a possible winner in this one.
and have forsaken the image of the tree to try and work that branch in. I seems there is a good tree inside there. Perhaps if you fall back on basics and try to reduce the image and simplify it will become apparent to you. I did a virt and posted on the other thread not realizing this tree had two threads. Good luck with it. I think you may have a possible winner in this one.
Smoke
Ignore-Amus
I stood it more erect. I like the canopy shape and would continue down that road. I would lose the right cacadeing branch, lose the back branch that seems too thick and keep the canopy and shorten the dead wood to a stub. I have not taken any liberties with the base since it may be difficult to see whats going on.
While this virtual makes use of only the top canopy, it would be important to develop those secondary branch structures to add counterbalances.
Very nice trunk to work with, I will be eager to see what happens next.
ak
While this virtual makes use of only the top canopy, it would be important to develop those secondary branch structures to add counterbalances.
Very nice trunk to work with, I will be eager to see what happens next.
ak
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Chris Johnston
Omono
Hi Chris, if you don't mind my two cents. Seems that your fighting this tree. The very large branch midway up the tree is way out of proportion. To be honest, it takes a way from the image. I know you wanted to do something with it, but I think you might have made taming that branch a bit personal
I hear what you are saying, and it may eventually go. This was my first styling on this tree and I really wanted to keep that branch, but it is obvious that it doesn't fit in very well. I like your virtual, and will certainly look hard at it.
Chris Johnston
Omono
Al, I like your virtual too. In the more upright position, of course the root on the left would be buried and that might make a world of difference in the base. I found a bit more taper when I removed the top half inch of soil. When I potted this tree, I was working alone and this was the best pot I had for it. It's too small. Next spring I may make a grow box for it until I find the right pot.
Thanks for the input!
Chris Johnston
Omono
Hey Chris,
Well I am going to jump on the bandwagon.... when I first seen your style job I thought you better reinvest in more Boon intensives, lol!!! That is a joke!
That branch has to go...... Too bad we didn't work out a trade lol!
Jason
Careful, I am sensitive
.I did exactly the same thing with a virtual as soon as Al suggested it. I like it.
