Styling question. Air layer still looks like a branch

[LindaPat]

So this is 3 years after air layer off a j maple in my yard. Is there anything at all I can do with this?

 

[Shibui]

There's always lots of things you can do with any tree.
In my book 3 years is not long in development for most trees. Having said that I would expect a bit more growth on a Japanese maple in 3 years in a grow pot like that one. Have you allowed it to grow or do you keep pruning it to maintain shape? Otherwise need to look at conditions and care to get some better growth.

Really hard to get a good idea of the actual shape of a tree from 2D photos so very hard to give quality advice on what shapes would be good. I can't get a good enough feel for the angles of the 2 branches to pick a good trunk line for this one or whether both branches could be used.
I'd start with removing the stump above the branches.
There does not appear to be much else to work with but that's just now. Some growth and time can make a big difference to any tree and often changes options completely.

 

[River's Edge]

So this is 3 years after air layer off a j maple in my yard. Is there anything at all I can do with this?

Yes, this represents the first few steps in a marathon. The finish line is not in view. The process at this point is one measured step at a time. Develop a plan to select the trunk line based on the movement of the trunk and the position of the best nebari. Explore planting angles to improve both. Decide wether ti use one trunk or both after consideration of the above.
I would not reduce the stump until you have decided where is the best location for the resulting scar, which depends on your design decisions. If you require help post a series of pictures showing all four sides of the tree at this time. That will aid others to make more informed suggestions.

 

[Pitoon]

Perhaps he air layered off a dwarf JM.

 

[Pitoon]

So this is 3 years after air layer off a j maple in my yard. Is there anything at all I can do with this?

You have two branches at the same height both going in the same direction. If you leave them both that section at the base of those branches will swell and cause inverted taper.

Turn the tree on it's side, you can make a nice cascade with that tree. But I suggest you remove one of those branches.....keep the one with more branching.

 

[LindaPat]

This helps me go past the big frustrated question mark this always gives me. It started as a pencil thin branch on a JM in my yard. I’ve chopped it twice. It grew in potting soil in a regular 10” garden pot for 3 years. All the branches (and the “trunk”) have had these long internodes. I guess because the tree in my yard was just a volunteer (but one with a gorgeous flame red color in the fall.) There are numerous JM in my neighborhood, and volunteer seedlings everywhere.
The air layer had fewer roots on the outside of the curve in the trunk, and that problem persists. I have actually wondered if semi cascade could work. There’s a tiny sprout low on the trunk (I think cascade or semicascade needs something growing upwards from the trunk?).
I was wondering if I could graft a couple little roots from the mother tree (now about 30 feet high) on the base of the trunk where I would need them for semicascade style. There is a kind of shelf there, but only a few small roots.

i do understand this will never be a fine tree, but I’ve learned a lot in the air layer process, seeing the result of chops and the internode problem, and learning about the roots of an airlayer.

i hate to throw it away. I (and my husband) are cheapskates, and so most of my trees are little found twigs as yet, and this is one of the few ones with girth approaching an inch. When the leaves harden off, I can remove the stump and the second big limb. Not sure what time of year to try grafting roots. Maybe if I lay it down some, more roots will grow there.

The only other path I can see right now would be to remove the smaller branch and all but the first little sub branch on the bigger main branch. Or chop down to the tiny shoot low on the trunk.

but I guess anything that grows back will have these long internodes.

 

[Shibui]

The air layer had fewer roots on the outside of the curve in the trunk, and that problem persists

Roots depend on branches above and vice versa. If there are few branches on one side of a plant there will usually be fewer roots on that side of the trunk which explains the lack of roots on one side of this one. That's likely to persist.

I was wondering if I could graft a couple little roots from the mother tree (now about 30 feet high) on the base of the trunk where I would need them for semicascade style. There is a kind of shelf there, but only a few small roots.

Roots can be grafted directly but most bonsai growers use seedlings to add roots using approach or thread grafts as that's much more reliable.

I have actually wondered if semi cascade could work. There’s a tiny sprout low on the trunk (I think cascade or semicascade needs something growing upwards from the trunk?).

Maples can be cascade style but they don't really like growing horizontal or downward so it is a constant battle to manage the growth well.
Not all cascade bonsai have a live 'head' growing upward. Good cascade and semi cascade emphasise the downward part with minimum, if any, upward growth.

All the branches (and the “trunk”) have had these long internodes. I guess because the tree in my yard was just a volunteer (but one with a gorgeous flame red color in the fall.) There are numerous JM in my neighborhood, and volunteer seedlings everywhere.

There are many different strains of JM. Some have consistently long internodes that resist all attempts at reduction. "Bloodgood' is a well known variety that has constantly frustrated all my attempts to reduce internodes to get compact growth. Varieties that have persistent long internodes are better used for larger sized bonsai.
There are techniques that can help reduce internode growth but sometimes it is better to admit defeat and look to better material.
Down here, seedlings seem to provide much better stock for bonsai. They seem to grow and develop much faster than most named varieties and you have total control over roots, trunk and branches - and they are also free for the likes of you and me.
Maybe keep this one going for the challenge and experience but I'd go out and get a couple of dozen seedlings now to develop much better material over the next 3 years.

 

[LindaPat]

Thank you for all this. Nice to have realistic expectations, and a few things to try. I have dozens of seedlings coming along, found in the neighborhood. We have some J maple trees around here that are dwarf, and some with tortuous branches. Some of my seedlings have short internodes, but many of those are weak growers. Kinda makes sense. I’m planning to collect fresh green seeds this year when they fill out, on some of my willing neighbors’ interesting trees. It all takes time. Hope I live long enough! When I’ve learned more, maybe I’ll buy a bigger tree, husband willing.

 

[Shibui]

Check in corners of the garden, behind buildings, etc. JM often sprout in unexpected spots and grow bigger before anyone spots them so you may be able to find some older, thicker trunks to start with. Depends how meticulous the gardeners are.
Collect JM seed when they turn brown. I collect just after the leaves fall.

 

[Potawatomi13]

Maples can be cascade style but they don't really like growing horizontal or downward so it is a constant battle to manage the growth well.
Not all cascade bonsai have a live 'head' growing upward. Good cascade and semi cascade emphasise the downward part with minimum, if any, upward growth.

Although subject tree is not such some Japanese Maples naturally have weeping growth habit. Personally have one such volunteer seedling.