The trunk and left branch are not bendable
Split to bend or cut to bend both are too advanced techniques for me at this point.
So here's your chance to get a feel of how much you CAN bend a branch once you're ready to remove it..
I'm guessing the left branch is 3/8" thick and should bend more than you think.
At this age JWP is more flexible than a few years older.
With some wiring practice over the next year or two on other material
you'll be able to better wire around this central shoot and not damage it.
That's most important...
Using #8 annealed copper wire minimum, probably #6 (gotta practice 1st)
coil your wire at about 60º spacing rather than 45º. 45º is more springy.
Ideally you would want to use one wire to wire both forks and coil counterclockwise
out the right fork to rotate that fork counterclockwise, but that would mean beginning
your wire on the front of the trunk where that central shoot is. I cannot see, if there's room
to start your wire there over top of the shoot or if you need to start on the back side and coil the right fork clockwise.
It helps to move your hand out to the end of the wire when you can to coil it working with thicker wire.
Support the branch underneath with one hand and keep an eye on the shoulder of the branch
as you bend it with your primary strong hand palm down, fingers spaced along the branch and try bending
the branch in the mid section. Ideally you do not want a rainbow arc in a branch, but you're learning the flexibility
of a particular species at a particular age.
Keep an eye on the shoulder and feel the branch as you bend it. If the top of the shoulder begins to pull away from the tree
it will not kill the branch but a good time to stop that action and try lateral bending.
If or when the branch snaps, you have a better idea as to how much bending a branch at this size and age can bend.
It's a branch I would remove anyway myself, so why not practice on it?
2 other methods would be 1 a guy wire and 2, cutting into the trunk at 45º right over the shoulder deep enough
till you get enough flexibility at the union/shoulder to bend it down by hand or guy wire, and guy wire it into position,
or place an inorganic spacer into the void to heal. Some use a proper sized pebble to leave in permanently.
I will be doing the cut over branches (not under) next March on an Eastern WP that is very brittle.
Branches smaller than 3/8" that are older on it, snap like a deciduous tree.