Sub Alpine fir (Abies lasiocarpa)

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Chumono
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This tree was collected some years ago from USFS land in Washington. It was recently purchased from a local nursery.

At time of purchase the fir appears vigorous. Lots of bushy growth, plump glaucous needles, large buds, and inner foliage close to the trunk.

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Chumono
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Roots appear strong, yet are unevenly distributed. They were concentrated only at the top, bottom, and sides of the pot. There was a sandy, burlapped core containing no fine root growth.


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Chumono
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It was a pain to get these roots in order. It took hours of digging, combing and rinsing to get them untangled and ready to pot. There was a lower root base that got sawed off.

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The original root base that was underneath the sand.

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Chumono
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I tried to preserve as many roots as possible. In the end perhaps 20-25% were removed.

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Sawing the lower root base off enabled me to count the rings and age the tree.

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An educated guess was made to determine the point at which the tree was collected. In theory, the rings would get wider once the tree was collected and then recovered. If it was consistently cared for..

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Chumono
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39 years, give or take.
27 in the mountains. 12 after collection.

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This tag seems to confirm the tree was collected in 2012.
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Chumono
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Anderson flat. 15x15x5 inches. Potting medium is 50/50 pumice and fir bark.

I’m considering some light pruning of the ends of long branches and maybe the leader. The purpose would be to redirect more energy towards inner growth and buds. Would this be ok given the repot?
Normally I wouldn’t so soon but this tree is vigorous and I don’t want the inner foliage to get shaded out this coming grow season.
 

River's Edge

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View attachment 473947

Anderson flat. 15x15x5 inches. Potting medium is 50/50 pumice and fir bark.

I’m considering some light pruning of the ends of long branches and maybe the leader. The purpose would be to redirect more energy towards inner growth and buds. Would this be ok given the repot?
Normally I wouldn’t so soon but this tree is vigorous and I don’t want the inner foliage to get shaded out this coming grow season.
I would retain all foliage until full recovery is evident. That way you have the most photosynthesis occurring that is possible. The species is very good with root work and usually recovers rapidly! The tree is young and has lots of time ahead for training. No point in risking it at this point. Plan to prune and wire this fall if recovery is solid.
Just an opinion. Here is mine after repot last week.IMG_1693.JPG
 

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Chumono
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I would retain all foliage until full recovery is evident. That way you have the most photosynthesis occurring that is possible. The species is very good with root work and usually recovers rapidly! The tree is young and has lots of time ahead for training. No point in risking it at this point. Plan to prune and wire this fall if recovery is solid.
Just an opinion. Here is mine after repot last week.View attachment 473959
Thanks. When gauging recovery what are the specific criteria you look for? The formation of next years buds? New root tips poking out of drainage holes? Or is it more like the overall appearance of the tree?
 

River's Edge

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Thanks. When gauging recovery what are the specific criteria you look for? The formation of next years buds? New root tips poking out of drainage holes? Or is it more like the overall appearance of the tree?
I watch for progression and extension of new growth with buds opening and flushing out! basically a strong growing season after repotting.
 

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Chumono
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The tree has rooted through its Anderson flat into the lawn. It is firmly attached.

8/8: Branch ends were pruned to start building desired proportions, reinvigorate inner growth, and encourage further back budding.
30%-40% of the foliage was removed.

Current:
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February
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CaptColin

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Awesome tree, thanks for the update. Also, can't thank you enough for the backdrop, I can see great effort was taken to secure us a nice photo!
 
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