Suggestions for coral bark maple

[ianmcglocklin]

I’ve been an amateur bonsai enthusiast for the past five years, still yet to come out with a decent looking tree.I was gifted this coral bark maple that was probably 5 feet tall when I received it, I made one trunk chop do you decrease the size of the tree, any suggestions on what I should do moving forward. It has a nice thick trunk with no graft and a wide root base, I would like to Make it into something one the shorter side but with no branch’s super close to base I’m unsure of what to do next. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you in advance.I’m

 

[sorce]

It's an even graft.

But no worries, we can call it ungrafted!
(Inside joke)

Welcome to Crazy!

Sorce

 

[Shibui]

I would go for a slightly larger tree rather than smaller. Coral bark tends to have fairly coarse growth and longer internodes so smaller trees are really difficult.

Do you want a really high quality show standard tree or would you be happy to have just a bonsai?

You are probably going to need to cut those branches way back and regrow branches because those straight branches with no taper are just plain boring.
First couple of pics appear to have the best roots but the top of the tree is way to the back so not the best overall look.
I can see one possible long term by cutting back to the first branch and build up from there.

Not much else stands out I'm afraid.

 

[AlainK]

On the second and third photos, it is obvious that the small green branch is from the rootstock: you should remove it.

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

I recommend to keep this a larger bonsai, do not try to "go small", finish say 1 meter tall would be my suggestion.

 

[Maloghurst]

I would cut each branch back to the up first node. Leaving enough stub for die back. Then make sure there is only two branches coming from that node. They tend to shoot several branches from nodes so you have to keep them in check. Then I would develop it as upward growth maple similar to a full size coral bark.
Coral bark does not have coarse growth or long internodes in my experience so I’m not sure what variety @Shibui is referring to. I’ve had two and they have finer growth and shorter internodes then standard Acer palmatum.

 

[ianmcglocklin]

Thank you so much for all you suggestions and reply’s. No not a show tree, just something to feel satisfied with. And thank you for that picture with the edits that is extremely helpful!

 

[ianmcglocklin]

When I do a drastic trunk chop down to that first branch do I cut at an angle to help with taper? I need to do a re-pot on the plant and a route trim, Would it be safe to shop that much of the tree in one session or over several years? Also it’s obviously grown in soil with my other trees I’ve been using pure DE With perlite and lava rock mixed with potting soil in the past, Should I be cutting out the potting soil completely?

 

[ianmcglocklin]

Disregard the question of taper, I now see you mean to chop Down to the first nodes of the upright branch as the new Apex

 

[Maloghurst]

I would not get rid of any of the three main branches. I would use all three as sort of natural loose broom style and develop the whole canopy out of those. Plus whatever other branches form on the tree as it grows.
I would cut back to closest growth to the trunk on each branch and develop the tree from there.
Keep two branches from each cut back as you develop ramification. I would not cut flush until later in the year. Leave some room for dieback.

 

[hemi71cuda]

Listen to the Mirai podcasts with Dennis Vojtilla. There are two.

 

[ianmcglocklin]

Thank you that podcast is awesome, only 1/4 of the way through first one. I am going to follow maloghurst advice And shop back to the first nose on each branch. Now do I continue to let the new growth thicken up after that? Or do I keep pinching

 

[ianmcglocklin]

As suggested. Thanks guys!

 

[Maloghurst]

That’s good now I would do the other two big branches and develop all those at the same time as the whole canopy. Those long straight sections are not doing you any good.

 

[ianmcglocklin]

But there is no growth on that branch any lower than that.

 

[Maloghurst]

There is a lower node maybe you’ll get some buds to form there from the current cut back. I look forward to seeing this one progress.

 

[ianmcglocklin]

Once again thanks for all your help! I’m always so scared to cut back too much and regret it later. The photoshop of my tree where you blanked out what it would look like after really helped, I will use that on all my other trees. I’ve heard to hold a piece of paper to block what the possible cut will do but with technology and iPhones these days idk why I never thought to try that. I will keep updated photos as the tree progresses. Thanks sincerely!

 

[ianmcglocklin]

First flush of growth after cut back. Now do I want to let all the new branches thicken up and then reduce? Or keep lots of little growth and pinch back two each set of nodes all season long

 

[MrWunderful]

First flush of growth after cut back. Now do I want to let all the new branches thicken up and then reduce? Or keep lots of little growth and pinch back two each set of nodes all season long

You can lightly pinch the apex if its sending out long shoots. But I would probably let it go until june/july with only a light cutback then as well in prep for the repot next year. You got a good flush, let the tree recoup.

 

[james]

I think the roots are unusable for a finished tree. Consider air layer next spring? You can still work on the branching as you see fit this growing season, and you will need a metabolically active tree to get the air layer to work.