Sumo Trident Progression

Tidal Bonsai

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I bought this small leaf trident maple stump from Jim Doyle at Natures Way Nursery in PA back in 2018. I was newly into the hobby, and decided to chop the leader for taper. I layered too low, and didn’t really improve the quality of the tree (just the nebari). A few seasons later in 2020, @MACH5 saw the tree at my place and thought the top would make a nice sumo shohin or a clump style. Knowing better than to argue with a master, I took the top of this tree from a gnarly mess (that needed chopping anyway) to a really powerful small tree!

Basic structure was set by Sergio in the early spring 2021, and I defoliated/cutback and wired it partway through the season.

More editing/wiring will happen later, it just got light cutback for now.

Summer of 2018 (Initial Cutback)

397359EF-221E-4B7D-831C-6B3CC34CC748.jpeg2CE53AF8-5669-4809-8640-3D62E6790D7E.jpeg

Spring of 2019 (Initial Air Layering)

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Spring of 2020 (Sumo Air Layering). The base of the tree is with @Njyamadori now)

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Spring of 2021 (Sergio’s Initial Structure Setting)

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Late Spring 2021 (Defoliation/Cutback and Wiring)

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Fall 2021

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MHBonsai

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Fantastic work. Really cool vision.
Can you explain your air layering process? Timing, medium used and when you separated ?
 

Tidal Bonsai

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Fantastic work. Really cool vision.
Can you explain your air layering process? Timing, medium used and when you separated ?
Sure, air layering is my favorite technique!

My timing is the same for all my deciduous trees, late winter before the tree starts moving resources. This may not be conventional, but I like doing it this way for two reasons:

1. All the new spring energy goes to making the new root system, instead of strengthening the old.
2. By layering this early, you can also separate early. I layer around late February where I am, fertilize like crazy and separate around early July. You do not waste an entire season layering in most cases. Do not just separate in July because I said so, take a look “under hood” and make sure there is a dense root system before separation.

After separating 4-5 months later, I ALWAYS cutback the top. This takes pressure off the new root system since there are less leaves to support.

When trunk layering, I like to take a plastic nursery pot and fill it up with a bonsai mix. This gives you a nicely ramified, and dense root system right off the bat.

Sphagnum usually leads to thick roots without taper. I only use sphagnum when I am layering something that isn’t horizontal.

PS: Layers do not have to be straight, you can make them on angles to get low movement where there is none.
 
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MHBonsai

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Sure, air layering is my favorite technique!

My timing is the same for all my deciduous trees, late winter before the tree starts moving resources. This may not be conventional, but I like doing it this way for two reasons:

1. All the new spring energy goes to making the new root system, instead of strengthening the old.
2. By layering this early, you can also separate early. I layer around late February where I am, fertilize like crazy and separate around early July. You do not waste an entire season layering in most cases. Do not just separate in July because I said so, take a look “under hood” and make sure there is a dense root system before separation.

After separating 4-5 months later, I ALWAYS cutback the top. This takes pressure off the new root system since there are less leaves to support.

When trunk layering, I like to take a plastic nursery pot and fill it up with a bonsai mix. This gives you a nicely ramified, and dense root system right off the bat.

Sphagnum usually leads to thick roots without taper. I only use sphagnum when I am layering something that isn’t horizontal.

PS: Layers do not have to be straight, you can make them on angles to get low movement where there is none.
Very interesting.

I’ve struggled getting tridents to layer, but I always have started them later in the spring. Thanks for the info!
 

Tidal Bonsai

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Very interesting.

I’ve struggled getting tridents to layer, but I always have started them later in the spring. Thanks for the info!
Do they bridge the gap and callus over? If so, that means you need to go deeper and make sure only to leave the sapwood.
 

Tidal Bonsai

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Both of the large wounds on this trident are completely healed this season after the two part epoxy trick! The wound on the top was 2 inches wide, and the one on the back was 1 inch wide.
Screenshot_20220925-075528_Chrome.jpg20220924_175856.jpgScreenshot_20220925-075609_Chrome.jpg20220924_175837.jpg

Progress shots to follow after leaf drop.
 
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dbonsaiw

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Both of the large wounds on this trident are completely healed this season after the two part epoxy trick!
Really cool. Always wondered if epoxy could be used and worried that the chemical process once the 2-parts are mixed would harm the tree (it gets hot etc.). I guess no problems in that regard?
 

Tidal Bonsai

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Really cool. Always wondered if epoxy could be used and worried that the chemical process once the 2-parts are mixed would harm the tree (it gets hot etc.). I guess no problems in that regard?

I have never heard of, or had any issues with the epoxy.

Getting wounds to heal vs. carving wounds is a personal choice. It's such a small tree with extreme taper, and nicely healed scars. Carving out a hollow would be fun to do, but it would take away from the character of this particular tree.
 

yashu

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Do you have any current shots of the whole tree?
 

Ben in Kzoo

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Love your tree. I have also had issues with airlayers, I must be doing something wrong
Can you give your exact bonsai mix used?
All in a plastic or do you use something fancy?
 

Tidal Bonsai

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Do you have any current shots of the whole tree?
It's in an awkward stage, but here it is. I tried wedge cutting and bending the bottom left branch (it was too horizontal at this angle), but it snapped... it is due for a thread graft next season instead. The apex needs to thicken more and the tree needs more refinement still.

Good wound healing is checked off the list!
 

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Tidal Bonsai

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Love your tree. I have also had issues with airlayers, I must be doing something wrong
Can you give your exact bonsai mix used?
All in a plastic or do you use something fancy?
My air layering mix is nothing fancy! I affectionately call it my "junk mix." It includes broken down akadama, pumice, lava, bark, and whatever other "junk" I have lying around. I cut a normal plastic nursery pot to fit the trunk and fill it with this mix. If you are layering a branch, you need a plastic bag and sphagnum.

The key is just making sure the layer is always watered well!
 

yashu

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It's in an awkward stage, but here it is. I tried wedge cutting and bending the bottom left branch (it was too horizontal at this angle), but it snapped... it is due for a thread graft next season instead. The apex needs to thicken more and the tree needs more refinement still.

Good wound healing is checked off the list!
Very cool! I think it’s destined for great things!

I’d like to get something like that going. I know it’s a bit of a niche thing but that super fat shohin style is really pleasing to my eye.
 

Tidal Bonsai

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The thread graft rook, it has healed most of its wounds, and trunk sections are mostly thickened. It is ready for a nice pot to refine in coming spring.

2023
20231112_153929.jpg

2020
Screenshot_20231113_054733_Instagram.jpg
 
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Tidal Bonsai

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I had a slightly softer pot in mind for this tree, but it ended up being too small. This xl shohin pot from Mazan will do for now.
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A super masculine tree with a super masculine pot is a bit too much IMO, it needs to be softened up a bit.

My little helper gave me "big one and baby one" when applying a little wire to some areas. 😅
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