Tall Atlas Cedar - Revisited With Ryan Neil

Brian Underwood

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Here is the original post on the tree; http://bonsainut.com/forums/showthread.php?5461-Tall-Atlas-Cedar&highlight=tall+atlas+cedar

I took my beloved cedar to a Ryan Neil workshop I had the honor of attending yesterday. I always hesitate to bring trees that are what I consider "MY" creations to any workshop, I think mostly out of fear of change. Fortunately I came to the conclusion that this mode of thinking is silly, and any change that could come out of a workshop with one of the best bonsai artists in the world would be a positive one.

We started by discussing what would be the very best front for the tree, which of course I thought was my current front. We discussed which had the best movement, base, direction, and forward lean, and came to the conclusion that the opposite side (of course) was the best of all worlds. I had actually come to this conclusion once before after bringing the tree home from Jim Gremel's workshop and placing it on the bench "backwards." I remember thinking "Crap. The base is WAY better from this side." But, I had no idea how to make this the new front with my current design, so I let it be.

Here is the old base, then the new base... Notice changes in movement, lean, and basal flare/taper; all improvements.
 

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Brian Underwood

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After choosing the new front, he simply said "Start the cleaning process." Which from experience with him telling me that before means "fix all the small stuff" such as removing buds coming from the top or bottom of branches, and removing old needles and needles in between buds, which will make wiring easier. This work is tedious and painful on a cedar, but once done we discussed separating pads and shortening branches.

First he explained that the longer branches have to be shortened and need separation in foliage pads, not one solid mass of foliage. This was done by both pruning and wiring. Some of the very long branches which I previously liked in my design were now no longer needed at the same length, and had to be shortened by 1-2 thirds.

The resulting image is much more peaceful and literati-like. It now leans slightly forward, bringing the apex toward the viewer, has a more sparse appearance, and a much better base and movement.

Photos of before and after;DSCF1673.JPGDSCF2232.JPG
 

Ris

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Hello Brian,
That is great improvements done my friend...
Honestly I joined a club but haven't really been going much I find doing my own thing on
my trees is more fun. I like the natrual look but some trees needs that magic touch.
This group shares thoughts fast and to the best of the individual knowledge and skills.
What would be great is for all Bonsai Nut members to have show and tell...


Thanks for sharing,
Rishi.
 

Brian Underwood

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Thank you Rishi! If doing your own thing is what you like, keep doing it! I too wish everyone would share more pictures of their trees here. It seems that photos are how most people learn these days, so it would be a big help if everyone started posting their trees.

I for one take workshops to both increase my own skill and knowledge, and to see someone else's style. Working with Jim Gremel for the last few years was amazing, and really got me started with all the basic necessary skills, and I will continue to work with him. Working with other artists like Michael Hagedorn and Ryan Neil just brings a whole new spin on things, and really gives me a new view of not only my own trees, but of what a tree can be.
 

dick benbow

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I'll try and get there early, have the front chosen and branches cleaned up ahead of any discussion. Thanks for the tip :)

P.S. yours looks very nice :)
 

Brian Underwood

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Thanks all. Yeah, the tree feels much lighter and more peaceful now, but so completely different from what I had it's almost like a new tree. It should still work for my Toko Kazari display though...
 

Vance Wood

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After choosing the new front, he simply said "Start the cleaning process." Which from experience with him telling me that before means "fix all the small stuff" such as removing buds coming from the top or bottom of branches, and removing old needles and needles in between buds, which will make wiring easier. This work is tedious and painful on a cedar, but once done we discussed separating pads and shortening branches.

First he explained that the longer branches have to be shortened and need separation in foliage pads, not one solid mass of foliage. This was done by both pruning and wiring. Some of the very long branches which I previously liked in my design were now no longer needed at the same length, and had to be shortened by 1-2 thirds.

The resulting image is much more peaceful and literati-like. It now leans slightly forward, bringing the apex toward the viewer, has a more sparse appearance, and a much better base and movement.

Photos of before and after;View attachment 27359View attachment 27360

Very beautiful tree, very nice styling, very pleasing overall design. Thanks for posting it.
 

Brian Underwood

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This is probably the healthiest tree I've ever owned. Every spring it is completely covered in new buds and often has two flushes of growth per year. While this is great, and really pushes the tree forward in it's development, it is incredibly difficult to keep up with.

Here is a shot from my display at last year's Kazari. The accent is a small pot of carnivorous pitcher plants, and the scroll is a custom piece I had painted by Susanne Barrymore and mounted by Jonathan Maples depicting an alpine lake I like to camp at here in Northern California. While I didn't win a prize, I was pleased with the overall effect of the display. The only thing I would change if I could, is the size and placement of the scroll. It should be a bit larger and hanging further down.
 

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discusmike

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Was wondering what month you do root work on your atlas ceder? Thanks, has it ever dropped needles afterwards, thanks.
 

Vance Wood

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This is probably the healthiest tree I've ever owned. Every spring it is completely covered in new buds and often has two flushes of growth per year. While this is great, and really pushes the tree forward in it's development, it is incredibly difficult to keep up with.

Here is a shot from my display at last year's Kazari. The accent is a small pot of carnivorous pitcher plants, and the scroll is a custom piece I had painted by Susanne Barrymore and mounted by Jonathan Maples depicting an alpine lake I like to camp at here in Northern California. While I didn't win a prize, I was pleased with the overall effect of the display. The only thing I would change if I could, is the size and placement of the scroll. It should be a bit larger and hanging further down.

It's a wonderful and beautiful tree. I had one when I lived in California, Marin County to be specific.
 

Nybonsai12

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Wow. Gorgeous. Thanks for sharing.
 

Brian Underwood

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Thanks guys! It's probably my favorite :)

Mike, rootwork is always done when temps start warming up in late spring (around 60-70 day temps, and 40-50 night).
 
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