Terra Cotta: My musings on...and resulting actions with.

HorseloverFat

Squarepants with Conkers
Messages
11,356
Reaction score
16,220
Location
Northeast Wisconsin
USDA Zone
5a
Pic?

Is that just a quick nudge that takes it to peak, but you can still make peak with a valve on the stick?

I'd try to keep the regulator on, that way you know what you're using using.

Sorce
That’s exactly what it is! (Little push to make it peak.. ) thank you, friend.

Also. By next time I fire, the pyrometer should have arrived... I will probably make some more inquiries as to specific installation of said device at that time.

🤓
 

sorce

Nonsense Rascal
Messages
32,908
Reaction score
45,579
Location
Berwyn, Il
USDA Zone
6.2
That’s exactly what it is!

Yeah just use the valve. That lever is to burn Japanese Beetles! Lol.

But ....if you were so close with the Raku burner, I think you'll quicker get that to work. With this one, you may end up just blowing more gas in and never gaining.

Sorce
 

HorseloverFat

Squarepants with Conkers
Messages
11,356
Reaction score
16,220
Location
Northeast Wisconsin
USDA Zone
5a
Yeah just use the valve. That lever is to burn Japanese Beetles! Lol.

But ....if you were so close with the Raku burner, I think you'll quicker get that to work. With this one, you may end up just blowing more gas in and never gaining.

Sorce
Thank you.. this was one of the ways I was leaning as well.. just wait for slightly higher outside temps and my pyrometer. And keep blowing with the one that I am more familiar with. 🤓
 

HorseloverFat

Squarepants with Conkers
Messages
11,356
Reaction score
16,220
Location
Northeast Wisconsin
USDA Zone
5a
I found a bag with about 15 lbs unprocessed clay (from my best pull spot, too) whilst cleaning a closet. 🤦🏽‍♂️
So I’ll have processed clay to do batchwork in the next few days... HOORAY! I’ll be able to “work” these batches in like a month at the least. 🤣
5691317F-78DA-4ACA-83D0-12E5FA4FAC95.jpeg

Also a lifelong friend of mine, whose wife is actually a potter.. dropped off a bag of... clay... that he DUG ...down to process... then TOP filtered.. (to ME.. this means all the “dirt” stayed :) )

But he dropped it off, basically a bag of “sludge”.. and said “it’s too squishy, my wife says, it doesn’t act like “clay”... you can have it.. she says you work with this sticky, low-fire crap.”
1613920996030.jpeg

I took the clay.. spent a couple days with it.. and sent him this..
95087EA6-7DDB-4624-A39C-DE6E127E2B4D.jpeg
 

HorseloverFat

Squarepants with Conkers
Messages
11,356
Reaction score
16,220
Location
Northeast Wisconsin
USDA Zone
5a
Ok, @bonsai-novice .. this is just kind of what the consistency/procedure LOOKS like for my “raw” clay processing....

Utilizing tall, cylindrical containers and GRACIOUSLY over-slipping.... gravity will filter MOST “mud” or sand aspects out... pour slow... clay is suspended... mud and sand sink... if you pour top-down onto a screen... and your mesh isn’t made from Superman’s briefs.... An amount of mud/sand will get by...

Over slipped and filtered... let it sit a GOOD few hours.
428D22C1-D197-42C0-85EF-12E7A1001653.jpeg
Pour off excess water and your left with MUCH less.. :)
8965E548-6B05-4AAC-A4FA-F2D6461D0394.jpeg
Time for some reducing action.... heat, pour off, heat, pour off.. for about 12 hours..EA00B0EA-8F11-4A1D-BA5E-32159C010505.jpeg

The paydirt... a “cake” of “raw clay”.. now I decide the composition of this/these batches from the GROUND up.E4A6863A-EF92-4B08-B1B0-BFF3609D3147.jpeg08B1F994-A688-410A-8485-54869FE5C700.jpeg
Get 2 or three “pots” going at a time..
 

HorseloverFat

Squarepants with Conkers
Messages
11,356
Reaction score
16,220
Location
Northeast Wisconsin
USDA Zone
5a
So.. my gut is telling me, i need BOTH plugs into the device...

For each plug, it runs to a little, two-wired soldered together “circuit”...

One would assume, One “loop“ (2 wires, soldered thing) to ONE screw/side of the probe, one “loop” to the other...
Is this logic correct?
 

LittleDingus

Omono
Messages
1,635
Reaction score
3,063
Location
Chicago, Illinois
USDA Zone
5
So.. my gut is telling me, i need BOTH plugs into the device...

For each plug, it runs to a little, two-wired soldered together “circuit”...

One would assume, One “loop“ (2 wires, soldered thing) to ONE screw/side of the probe, one “loop” to the other...
Is this logic correct?
It's the internet: I'll throw out the wrong answer so someone will come by and correct me :D Deal?

Thermocouples are directional. It's not a disaster if they are wired up backwards, but there is a positive and negative lead and you'll get more accurate results when wired the right direction.

My guess from what I can see of your meter is it is a 2 channel meter. Either it can measure two thermocouples at a time OR each plug is calibrated to a different thermocouple type so you only plug into the one that matches your thermocouple.

Each of those yellow connector/wire bundles should have two wired out the other end. One of those (red/insulated is typically positive) goes into one of the screw jacks...the other goes into the other one. The ceramic bit is to protect the thermocouple itself.

This being a high temperature thermocouple (I'm assuming ;) ) you might not get a reading out of the meter until you enter the lower range of the thermocouple. So hooking it all up might not tell you anything useful until you start cooking.

The standard disclaimers apply...I haven't touched a thermocouple in probably 20 years and I've never used the specific equipment you have. But...I'm sure I'm just wrong enough to trigger the internet to respond appropriately ;)
 

sorce

Nonsense Rascal
Messages
32,908
Reaction score
45,579
Location
Berwyn, Il
USDA Zone
6.2
Kinda hanky how the probe itself holds the whole thing intact.
I melted my leads so I back it off.

20210226_113823.jpg
20210226_113809.jpg

See where the wire has a anti yoink wire tie?

Safety first.

No...proper firing first.... safety second!

Sorce
 

HorseloverFat

Squarepants with Conkers
Messages
11,356
Reaction score
16,220
Location
Northeast Wisconsin
USDA Zone
5a
Awesome! Thanks guys, that’s what I FIGURED.. I just wanted some other opinions, first.

🤓
 

Pitoon

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
5,043
Reaction score
11,386
Location
Southern Maryland
USDA Zone
7b
Ok, @bonsai-novice .. this is just kind of what the consistency/procedure LOOKS like for my “raw” clay processing....

Utilizing tall, cylindrical containers and GRACIOUSLY over-slipping.... gravity will filter MOST “mud” or sand aspects out... pour slow... clay is suspended... mud and sand sink... if you pour top-down onto a screen... and your mesh isn’t made from Superman’s briefs.... An amount of mud/sand will get by...

Over slipped and filtered... let it sit a GOOD few hours.
View attachment 356153
Pour off excess water and your left with MUCH less.. :)
View attachment 356155
Time for some reducing action.... heat, pour off, heat, pour off.. for about 12 hours..View attachment 356158

The paydirt... a “cake” of “raw clay”.. now I decide the composition of this/these batches from the GROUND up.View attachment 356156View attachment 356157
Get 2 or three “pots” going at a time..
Seems like a lot of work. Why don't you get yourself a full bag of #1 plaster and make yourself a nice thick large bat. You then just pour the liquid slip on it and in a couple hours you can have clay dense enough to knead.
 

Pitoon

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
5,043
Reaction score
11,386
Location
Southern Maryland
USDA Zone
7b
That is AMAZING!!!!!!

Thank you!!! I have a TON of plaster sheets!!
You need ceramic plaster..........it's a specific make up for pottery. Do a search for USG 1 pottery plaster. Don't use the plaster that you can buy at HD or Lowes it's not the same and won't absorb the water out of the slip.
 

HorseloverFat

Squarepants with Conkers
Messages
11,356
Reaction score
16,220
Location
Northeast Wisconsin
USDA Zone
5a
Tested it in the oven, too....

Real uneven and unresponsive... THEN it got “hot enough” And seemed to act “normally”

Seems to work well..
 
Top Bottom