Didn't you forget the biggest one of all - grafting ume onto JBP (or whatever it was)?Unwinding wire when removing it, rather than cutting it off.
Putting trees back into the sun after repotting rather than setting them in shade or partial shade.
Wiring deciduous trees when the shoots are still soft.
I am not disagreeing with you but there are times when you have two ways to go: Leave the tree alone and hope it gets healthy, which means you believe the reason for trees decline is because of your lack of care. Or you need to take drastic action because something is wrong with the roots from the nature of the soil to an infection. Either way the tree will do one of two things--live or die.@Lorax7 ,
just be aware that bare rooting can slow a tree down for 2 or 3 months
and if you are in an area with temperatures over 100 deg.F.
The roots can shut down.
So if possible just let the tree get healthy.
No wiring or clipping, if possible.
* And yes on our side we did run bare rooting against the other
repotting technique. The bare rooted was much slower.
I gotta ask, Anthony.Not wiring trees into pots.
Nigel’s videos are a cringe fest for me.I gotta ask, Anthony.
Why not? We get wind where I live. And if the wind blows soon after repotting, the trunk can move. If the trunk moves, the roots will move. If the roots move, the new tiny feeder roots can get damaged. Which can slow recovery, or perhaps damage the tree permanently.
Wiring in is easy. (Well, SOME skill is required - especially for large collected material that may not have a good root system. Which makes it DOUBLY important to do it right!). It secures the tree in firmly, winds won’t bother it, nor will a bird which lands on it.
Nigel Saunders doesn’t wire his in, but he grows in a greenhouse (no winds or birds).
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