The Mugo thread aka the Vance Wood cult

ABCarve

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Do not remove needles by pulling them off as is the practice with JBP, cut them off at the fasicle with scissors[/COLOR]. If you pull off the needles you also pull off many of the buds you want to encourage to grow.

I thought the reason you removed the needles was to keep buds from emerging there and therefore extending straight up or down??
 

Vance Wood

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I thought the reason you removed the needles was to keep buds from emerging there and therefore extending straight up or down??

They tend to hemorrhage if you pluck the needles so it is a good idea if you get in the habit of cutting them. You're right the up and the down does not logically make any sense except for the proceeding, except when it does and sometimes you never know. I try not to close doors.
 

RKatzin

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Thank you all for your most valued input. You know I grew this tree and I think that's evidence enough I got that part. I have done some prelim prunning along the way and I don't think there's anything that needs to be removed at this point as far as lumber. I have generated profuse backbudding in the interior, I just need to get in there to it and probably get rid of some, inside of curves and thing like that and just leave ones that enhance the look of the whole tree.

The camdle growth this spring was very uniform throughout the tree, doesn't appear to be any weak areas, but I'll have a closer look when I start removing some.

This is really very exciting! After years of growing to actually have the tree on the table. Easy now, rein in them ponies! It's a rough crossing and best to let them pick their own way, relax and enjoy the ride. LOL

BTW, for what it's worth, and likely one of those stick in the eye subjects, but I have never use cut paste on any of my trees. If you cut at the wrong time they bleed like a stuck pig, if you cut at the right time they heal with no problem and just a bit of a drip. I don't like the stuff, I don't see anything like it in nature and trees break and heal all the dodah day out there.

All righty then. Thanks again for all the insight, all is taken under advisement and consideration. You've got the befores, I'll post some afters after. I'm goin' in, Rick
 

Vance Wood

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Thank you all for your most valued input. You know I grew this tree and I think that's evidence enough I got that part. I have done some prelim prunning along the way and I don't think there's anything that needs to be removed at this point as far as lumber. I have generated profuse backbudding in the interior, I just need to get in there to it and probably get rid of some, inside of curves and thing like that and just leave ones that enhance the look of the whole tree.

The camdle growth this spring was very uniform throughout the tree, doesn't appear to be any weak areas, but I'll have a closer look when I start removing some.

This is really very exciting! After years of growing to actually have the tree on the table. Easy now, rein in them ponies! It's a rough crossing and best to let them pick their own way, relax and enjoy the ride. LOL

BTW, for what it's worth, and likely one of those stick in the eye subjects, but I have never use cut paste on any of my trees. If you cut at the wrong time they bleed like a stuck pig, if you cut at the right time they heal with no problem and just a bit of a drip. I don't like the stuff, I don't see anything like it in nature and trees break and heal all the dodah day out there.

All righty then. Thanks again for all the insight, all is taken under advisement and consideration. You've got the befores, I'll post some afters after. I'm goin' in, Rick

I don't use the stuff either. The only reason is to keep the sap off everything else but actually it does little in controlling that either.
 

ABCarve

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They tend to hemorrhage if you pluck the needles so it is a good idea if you get in the habit of cutting them. You're right the up and the down does not logically make any sense except for the proceeding, except when it does and sometimes you never know. I try not to close doors.

By hemorrhage do you mean bleed sap? I have plucked mine and didn't notice that. It does seem easier to use the scissors.
 

Paradox

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I don't use the stuff either. The only reason is to keep the sap off everything else but actually it does little in controlling that either.

I dont use bonsai cut paste because it seemed rather expensive for a 4 oz tube of the stuff. I have used grafting wax which is pretty thick and gooey when submerged in hot water and Ive used modelling clay mixed with vasoline to make it a bit more pliable.

So far in my experience, both work well to stop the bleeding of sap you get when pruning and and you can get at least 4x the amount of material for the price of a 4oz tube of the expensive bonsai variety.
 

JudyB

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and gets all over your pretty bark you just spend years getting to mature....
 

RKatzin

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If you cut at the wrong time they bleed like a stuck pig, if you cut at the right time they heal with no problem and just a bit of a drip.

Ok, allow me a brief explain: If you do your cutting in the waning phase of the moon, it's past the full moon and the moon is regressing your trees will not bleed. After the new moon you will see progressively more bleeding as the moon gets bigger. Cut on the full moon and they will bleed like a stuck pig.

The moon is a gravitational force and you don't have to be a fisherman to know about the tides or that the highest tides are when the moon is closest to the earth. From the biggest to the smallest detail the moon effects the water (fluids) of everything on this planet. This is why every plant bears down and gets a good grip when the moon is on the rise. Effects planting, weeding and harvesting, and prunning your trees.

Prune one tree one week after the full moon and prune another one week after the new moon and tell me which one bleeds all over the place. Wiring, too is effected. Wiring a branch when the tree is full of fluids will lessen breakage as wood will bend easier. The same twig will snap in the waning phase because it is dry and brittle. Digging your trees during the waning phase will result in a much easier dig with much less root damage. The trees relax during this phase and the ground is loose and open.

I'm a little late for my trimming I'm doing today and I expect a small amout of bleeding. We're four days into the new moon already. A week ago would have been better, but that's life ain't it. Does anyone else dap the cut with an alcohol swab? Rick
 

october

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and gets all over your pretty bark you just spend years getting to mature....

In regards to pines. It is usually a good idea to use cut paste when a major branch is removed. Whether it bleeds a little or a lot, is not as important as preventing future issues.

You will notice in 99% of the cases with pines, that people with specimen trees, use cut paste. If you worked on a pine for years, it is very old and worth thousands of dollars. Why take the chance of any amount of sap running down the trunk. The sap cannot be removed and it will be a very long time before it becomes not as visible. Meanwhile it lightly scars the trunk.

Rob
 

Paradox

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Does anyone else dap the cut with an alcohol swab? Rick

I havent heard of this but some people do clean their tools with alcohol between trees to minimize chance of infection transfer if there is any.
 

Vance Wood

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I havent heard of this but some people do clean their tools with alcohol between trees to minimize chance of infection transfer if there is any.

I've done it not so much as to eliminate the possible transfer of infection but the buildup of pitch and sap on the blades.
 
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To everyone except Vance.

How can you be a member if the cult with no artifacts? Imagine my surprise when I ran across this when I was helping my friend Pete water his garden.
 

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Vance Wood

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To everyone except Vance.

How can you be a member if the cult with no artifacts? Imagine my surprise when I ran across this when I was helping my friend Pete water his garden.

HolyCrap one of my planters---still in one piece. I think I have the last one I made down stairs in mint condition somewhere.
 
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HolyCrap one of my planters---still in one piece. I think I have the last one I made down stairs in mint condition somewhere.

He was going to put a shimpaku in it. I wonder if I should treat the wood with anything first?
 

RKatzin

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HolyCrap one of my planters---still in one piece. I think I have the last one I made down stairs in mint condition somewhere.

It's a funny thing isn't it, when you make a thing like that and market it. Much like the tile work I've done. You very rarely get to see it once you've wiped it down and gone home.

Did you ever have nightmares about them falling apart with peoples trees spilling unto the ground? I know I did my tile work right, with the best materials and skilled labor, and I would still have visions of people in their shower and the ceiling coming down on them, or the patio buckeling and the flagstone floating away. Never happened and I'm sure your boxes never came apart. It's just a craftsmans thing and every one is like connected to you.

I went back to a job I did 20 yrs ago, to buy a tractor from the same man. They were loading up and moving to Yuma, selling out the whole place. The wife came out and took my hand, relating that the kitchen back splash I had agonized over to get just right for her had been a major selling point for the home. I didn't cry, but I got that weird lump in the throat thing and my eyes got a little watery.
 

RKatzin

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Somebody mention Mugos? Not lately? That's right this is a mugo thread I remember now.

Well, the deed is done, I think enough for now and enough to get us on our way. I can not get a decent pic while the sun is up. I'll try for some shots later today, but for now I tried to keep the glare out as much as possible. Have a look.

I tried not to take more off than needed to expose the trunklines. I added a couple of gallons of potting mix to bring up the level and get some of the rootbase underground. I didn't take anything bigger than 1/4-1/2" and in two passes I got about 1/3 of the mass off. I can see a good shiloette of the trunk and branches now and I get a sense of organic flowthrough about the tree. There's that crazy apex and I think much of that may be corrected on next repotting and some trim and wiring in the mean while. Starting next year? I must turn my attention else where for now. All trees in the ground are coming out sometime this year and moving to a new location. So if I can get the rest of my mugos tag abd bagged I'm ahead of the game in fall.

Please, have at it. I long for your insight, Rick

Some interior shots coming
 

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RKatzin

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From inside the trunk comes up and lays back and then a big goose neck across the top of the tree.

The first pic is to the left side of lower trunk, bit of a snafu.
Three is looking down the trunk from the top of the goose neck.

Four and five show how it extends across the top of the tree.
 

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Paradox

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I think you have made a nice start. Now as you already know, leave the tree alone.
Water and stare at it over a few beers and you might get some better insight of where to go next.

I often live with a tree for a year or more before I decide where to go. I periodically stare at the tree, turn it around, stare at is some more before I begin to see a path. Even then Ive seen something at the last minute as I am getting ready to cut that makes me stop and say "wait a minute, lets look at this again"
 
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