Acer palmatum

ConorDash

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Removed..

804BD5F1-28B7-4D1E-9F86-ABB337024739.jpeg8FF8CF80-888A-4ED8-8469-7321549F149D.jpegAF9FC803-7082-47A0-873E-2DECA41E232E.jpeg
Can see the colouring of those bad branches.
The hole is a little bigger than I thought but it’s a clear wound so I hope it heals well and is eventually invisible.. really don’t want any marks on that nice smooth trunk.

Perhaps I should concave the wound a bit, so it’s a touch deeper for when the wound rolls in?
 

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ConorDash

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So, this thing is still alive. And very ugly looking, just what we like to see on a tree in progress!

DSC_0116 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr
DSC_0117 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr
DSC_0119 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr

(That bottom branch needs to be removed but in the interest of how hard I pruned it last season, I left for health)

DSC_0120 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr
DSC_0122 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr

Immediate plans are just for it to regain health, but Ill be cleaning up dead bits, removing that bottom branch and as suggested by Bobby, I think Ill remove that large sticking out bit at the end of the first initial trunk curve. Removing that will allow for a more sinous movement of the trunk. At the moment, it sticks out and theres no need for that. Hope I can do it so it don't leave too ugly of a mark though.
 

ConorDash

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Looking good Conor. I would bring it all down to this and work from here. I would let the tree respond and depending, then plan on thread grafting if necessary.


Would you think I’m lying if I said I took a pic at this exact angle to display that movement from top to bottom? :).
That is pretty much what I am aiming for, you’ve done me the favour of visualising it for me though, thank you.

My only concern currently is that it had a hard cut back last season, so unsure if I should be working on it this coming spring or not. I’m confident in its roots, it’s established and healthy in that respect. What do you think, given your experience with them, in regards to health and punishment?

Or do that cut, as you say and then wait for response, to answer that concern of mine?
 
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I would clean and do as m5 suggested but leave all branches to begin. Remove next fall with next styling. The fun part begins.
 

ConorDash

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I would clean and do as m5 suggested but leave all branches to begin. Remove next fall with next styling. The fun part begins.
Yeh any kept branches will need thickening any way.. the line between cleaning and pruning is one I gotta keep on though lol.

I’d say fun part begins next year, once I have some structure to work with. At the moment I think it’s waiting and cleaning up.
I’ll clean up and wait to see how it grows, hopefully can do as Mach and you say. Just don’t want to play with it’s health, that’s my main concern. I believe pruning maple is best during active growth anyway, late in the growing season so it has growth and time to heal but also less sap bleed as it’s late. But, that’s a topic that could be argued all day :p
 
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It is a common misconception that waiting and time will provide answers. Direct new growth and remove not usable shoots so it can be used in whatever design you please. It is always a collaboration between tree and owner. Let the tree do what it wants and it will never be a bonsai. Give branches movement and direct them. Next year do the same, and do a further selection. Watch the wounds closing and the new taper and adjust your vision of the future. Find a tree with similar trunk movement. This is not a smooth Japanese maple with standard pads at the outside of the bend, i see a more rugged tree with a lot of movement and a bit of chaos in the branches.
 

ConorDash

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It is a common misconception that waiting and time will provide answers. Direct new growth and remove not usable shoots so it can be used in whatever design you please. It is always a collaboration between tree and owner. Let the tree do what it wants and it will never be a bonsai. Give branches movement and direct them. Next year do the same, and do a further selection. Watch the wounds closing and the new taper and adjust your vision of the future. Find a tree with similar trunk movement. This is not a smooth Japanese maple with standard pads at the outside of the bend, i see a more rugged tree with a lot of movement and a bit of chaos in the branches.

Can’t argue with that.

That is a good point, once cleaned up and branches chosen, I do need to wire before growth in spring.
Oh the fun does begin :)
 

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Would you think I’m lying if I said I took a pic at this exact angle to display that movement from top to bottom? :).
That is pretty much what I am aiming for, you’ve done me the favour of visualising it for me though, thank you.

My only concern currently is that it had a hard cut back last season, so unsure if I should be working on it this coming spring or not. I’m confident in its roots, it’s established and healthy in that respect. What do you think, given your experience with them, in regards to health and punishment?

Or do that cut, as you say and then wait for response, to answer that concern of mine?


Cleaning up the trunk line in late winter would not be a problem given that this is still a very young tree. Older maples need to be approached a bit more carefully specially when repotting them. I never worry about going hard on a healthy maple. The problem with leaving it another season with all the current branches is that they will only serve to swell the trunk and take up valuable resources that incipient buds will need to develop well in the "correct" places.
 

ConorDash

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Cleaning up the trunk line in late winter would not be a problem given that this is still a very young tree. Older maples need to be approached a bit more carefully specially when repotting them. I never worry about going hard on a healthy maple. The problem with leaving it another season with all the current branches is that they will only serve to swell the trunk and take up valuable resources that incipient buds will need to develop well in the "correct" places.

Yes indeed, I understand and agree with that.
It had its health issues previously but it’s been a few year snow,I have confidence in its health so late winter, early spring, I’ll clean up, wire the ranches I’m keeping them see how it responds.
If it responds well, perhaps another light pruning later in the growing season, late spring or summer.
Job done :).

Thank you guys.
 

ConorDash

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Welp, thats that!
Cut away at the trunk to try keep the transition smoother, cut away at useless branches and wired keepers for some movement, thinking of the future placement of them too (and the fact they will be cut back short). The top right branch which is wired, looks very straight from the camera angle, its just the angle!
The branch kept on the inner first bend should be removed but has been kept for now, for grafting in future (unsure if this is a mistake or not, feel free to comment).

The ONE thing I do need to do but am lacking the courage, is to the remove the large other primary branch, that has been said to remove. I can see it needs removing, I just need a bit of a kick to make me do it at the moment.
Try to ignore the criss cross wiring in some places, I am aware of the "no no", but Im not concerned about it causing damage where it is, the wire isn't super tight. I think it will do the job, personally.
I've used some heavier paste on the trunk wound, due to the bleeding sap. Ugly for now though!
WIll be for a few years yet, this is no short term tree.

Please feel free to comment and criticise.

DSC_0221 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr
DSC_0219 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr
 

ConorDash

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nice progress Conor!

I’ll give you the kick you’re looking for, but i’d say wait for it to leaf out :)

doing it now or later doesn’t make too much of a difference, but it will be reassuring to see your new ‘primary’ growing vigorously before you chop off that secondary branch :)

edit: FYI (as you may know) i’ve never been in a situation like this yet, so the above is just me putting myself in your shoes and contemplating the options out loud

Fair enough :). From my research it’s always said heavier pruning should be done in summer, for maples, but it’s up to us how well we follow it. End of the day, I think you are right, it doesn’t matter too much when I do it. I should do it now though...
 

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I took it off last week. Now time to stop touching this tree... I believe this is all the final major work done to it, its now time to grow, regain vigor and wire new growth when it comes in.
She is very ugly at the moment! And yes, criss crossing wire... I ran out of real estate, it will only be on for a few months or less, then can be removed. Shouldn't damage the trunk it is around.

aib6ceoh.jpg

afAhKaqh.jpg
 

ConorDash

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Update, growing strong. Removed a few bits today (despite wanting to keep all, to generate energy and recover), that were not going to be needed and wanted redirect energy to the fresh new primaries that sorely need thickening.
Try not to comment on my wiring... It looks bad, but its doing the job!

DSC_0556 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr
DSC_0557 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr
DSC_0559 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr

Movement has been set in the first few inches of the primaries, but due to allowing them to grow long (for thickening) they are drooping a lot... Aside from my light wiring to keep them upright, do I just let them droop?

DSC_0558 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr
DSC_0560 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr

Had some good sun, the tree is not in full sun all day. Its leaves look a little weary but they are fresh growth from hard cut back so I dont imagine they will all be pristine. They look good to my eye. No signs of pest or fungus this year.

She looks very battered and bruised, the trunk, scars and wounds but one day, she will look great! Wounds on the trunk base will heal and bark take over, large never healing chops will be covered by dense canopy. This one really is my long term, underdog story. I want this looking amazing and to be proud of all the work that went in to her!
 

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Whats your proposed front again?
Just wondering as I thought about asking this Question.
Have you thought about changing the potting position in the future?
This is no criticism by any means just a thought but I cant remember what front your going with
 

ConorDash

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I did have a proposed front but I am a believer in looking good all round, not really a front. Although a front is somewhat required for certain ideas or work, I just try to not pick one.
I can't help Walter Palls voice ringing in my ears "In natural, the tree has no front, it looks good from all angles" (add libbed)

But my proposed front would probably be this or this:
DSC_0219 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr
DSC_0221 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr

This is a pic just for the right angle, its appearance has changed since then (that top thick branch removed)
Both show the movement in the trunk, and its fat base. Different views of its "nebari" (if you can call it that), so up to the viewer which they prefer.
The primaries of it and its next 2 years of growth will really change which front is better. The first pic covers up 2 large wounds and has a wider base. I personally prefer that.
What do you think?

I have not thought about changing potting angles... it will be repotter next Spring so will have to see :). I wouldnt want to cover any of its base though, I like it.
 

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I did have a proposed front but I am a believer in looking good all round, not really a front. Although a front is somewhat required for certain ideas or work, I just try to not pick one.
I can't help Walter Palls voice ringing in my ears "In natural, the tree has no front, it looks good from all angles" (add libbed)

But my proposed front would probably be this or this:
DSC_0219 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr
DSC_0221 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr

This is a pic just for the right angle, its appearance has changed since then (that top thick branch removed)
Both show the movement in the trunk, and its fat base. Different views of its "nebari" (if you can call it that), so up to the viewer which they prefer.
The primaries of it and its next 2 years of growth will really change which front is better. The first pic covers up 2 large wounds and has a wider base. I personally prefer that.
What do you think?

I have not thought about changing potting angles... it will be repotter next Spring so will have to see :). I wouldnt want to cover any of its base though, I like it.
I'm not saying do it and it looks good now.
But I would still like to see it tilted about 20°to 30° to the left you may loose some base but it will have a movement that makes sense and don't sit back on itself more movement flowing to the right but keeping its curves.
Like I said it looks good now I was just Intested to see what it would do to the image as an experiment
 

ConorDash

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I'm not saying do it and it looks good now.
But I would still like to see it tilted about 20°to 30° to the left you may loose some base but it will have a movement that makes sense and don't sit back on itself more movement flowing to the right but keeping its curves.
Like I said it looks good now I was just Intested to see what it would do to the image as an experiment

I will stick it in paint or photoshop and do that sometime, see what its like :)
 

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I still think that the branch (X) inside the curve could be removed.

I would replace it with what looks like a backbranch (2).

I would also cut off the branch that goes to the back (3) : all the lower ones are very thin, this will look awkward. If you leave a stub, new buds will appear, select the one that is in the best direction, and that will be good.

And I would remove all the wires, and let the top grow freely until next spring.

It's a very flat rendition, but new buds are very likely to pop out in (2) or (3) if the tree is healthy so you can select "perspective" branches.

My 2 €cents...

46614696434_ab247b685e_z.jpg
 
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