Acer palmatum

M. Frary

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No mate mine are all made from Papier-mâché and wire lol.
You know what I ment your just on the play up lol
The thing is all of my trees are practice trees.
I don't go out and get run of the mill trees to practice bonsai.
What if my practice works? Then I got a nice stick in a pot.
If my "practice " doesn't work then I killed a nice tree.
Such is tree life and death here. They're making trees as we speak right now.
 

ConorDash

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Piahrea,gingivitis,plaque demons,potty mouth?

Yeh starting to get some gingivitis, apparently I gotta start flossing.. 26 years, I’ve never been told to do that before.. and a filling. Nothing looks or feels any different or painful, so bit of an unpleasant surprise to be told that.
 

M. Frary

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Yeh starting to get some gingivitis, apparently I gotta start flossing.. 26 years, I’ve never been told to do that before.. and a filling. Nothing looks or feels any different or painful, so bit of an unpleasant surprise to be told that.
Take care of them teeth dude!
Sounds like you got it under control.
That's good.
 

ConorDash

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Take care of them teeth dude!
Sounds like you got it under control.
That's good.
Tell me about it.. I had braces and all that, extremely conscious of them and recently been cleaning and doing it all, more than usual! And still bad result. Which was why it was even more of a surprise! Any way... Back to the trees.
 

M. Frary

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. Back to the trees.
It looks good
Once you get used to doing it,hard cut backs come easy.
I have to refrain from cutting back too much at times. I doubt lime how a branch is looming and cut it off. That's elms since I don't have Japanese maples. If I could grow them and trident Smoke, Mach5 and Bill Valvanis would be the guys I would look to for advice.
No one else. These guys know these trees in and out.
Just like Vance Wood is the guy to go to for Mugo and Scots pines.
Go to the best and just ignore all other advice.
 

ConorDash

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Right, before anyone says anything, heres the thing:

DSC_0054 - Edit by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr

1: This big branch, is the one most want me to remove and they dislike, thats fine. I really do have plans for it though and it reaching up like that, it really fits in to what I want. I want it to reach up and support the canopy as it comes over.. I could still chop in half, as there is a ring node there, as petegreg pointed out. I just thought maybe it was ok to leave, as it does lend itself to what i want. Howver, saying that, It will always be taper less and it might ruin things. I could remove..
2: That is the big branch, the leader. Its got the only leaves still left on the tree (apart from 2 tiny ones), it does need to go, I just chickened out as the tree would be completely leafless. I will remove it, just wanted to maybe get some growth going. Call me a chicken on that one.
3: I think this has a good bit of movement in it currently, the 2D pic doesn't do it justice but it has 3 changes of direction currently, 4 sections of branch, so I decided this was ok.
4: Simply has no nodes. It is fairly pliable so I could bend some movement in to this, although it slopes up nicely at the moment any way. Has some damage under it, where you can see brown colouring, unsure how that is but no big deal. The 2 branches off of it are cut back and have changes of direction also.
 

ConorDash

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It looks good
Once you get used to doing it,hard cut backs come easy.
I have to refrain from cutting back too much at times. I doubt lime how a branch is looming and cut it off. That's elms since I don't have Japanese maples. If I could grow them and trident Smoke, Mach5 and Bill Valvanis would be the guys I would look to for advice.
No one else. These guys know these trees in and out.
Just like Vance Wood is the guy to go to for Mugo and Scots pines.
Go to the best and just ignore all other advice.

Yeah, I know those people are the bosses of that :). Been told that by others too + can see their results.
With an Elm, I've done it on 4 of them now and read, learnt etc and I am comfortable with cutting them back. Just cos this was my fault time. Next time, this will be much easier and Ill know what to look for, when to prune, what I am going for.
First time for everything, can only get better from here :)
 

M. Frary

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First time for everything, can only get better from here :)
That's right.
And I know you're only getting better.
Some people never learn bug you aren't stubborn and can take advice and apply it.
Even if it is blunt and to the point.
 

ConorDash

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That's right.
And I know you're only getting better.
Some people never learn bug you aren't stubborn and can take advice and apply it.
Even if it is blunt and to the point.

Thanks, I appreciate that but this Maple pruning experience, as seen in this thread, has shown I am certainly more dense than I thought I was. Took time for people's advice to really sink in, thats not to say its all completely sunk in now! Understandably, people can get frustrated, saying the same things over and over and people not getting it. But I'd rather look dumb and ask again, than go on not knowing and not having learnt properly.
 

papymandarin

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cut the top too, by leaving it with all its leaves you are going to favor it growing even more while weakening those you cut leaving no leaves. In worse cases the tree could even let the cut branches dry and resume growth from the part you did not cut.
 

barrosinc

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cut the top too, by leaving it with all its leaves you are going to favor it growing even more while weakening those you cut leaving no leaves. In worse cases the tree could even let the cut branches dry and resume growth from the part you did not cut.
I would do the same. Leaving leaves might pull the sap in favor of the leaves that you left
 

TomB

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Me three. Plus I'd shorten the bottom left branch as you suggested you could. If you leave it it will always be a straight stick that will spoil your design. Regrow it from the first section onwards and you can get some movement in it.
 

small trees

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Right, before anyone says anything, heres the thing:

by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr

1: This big branch, is the one most want me to remove and they dislike, thats fine. I really do have plans for it though and it reaching up like that, it really fits in to what I want. I want it to reach up and support the canopy as it comes over.. I could still chop in half, as there is a ring node there, as petegreg pointed out. I just thought maybe it was ok to leave, as it does lend itself to what i want. Howver, saying that, It will always be taper less and it might ruin things. I could remove..
2: That is the big branch, the leader. Its got the only leaves still left on the tree (apart from 2 tiny ones), it does need to go, I just chickened out as the tree would be completely leafless. I will remove it, just wanted to maybe get some growth going. Call me a chicken on that one.
3: I think this has a good bit of movement in it currently, the 2D pic doesn't do it justice but it has 3 changes of direction currently, 4 sections of branch, so I decided this was ok.
4: Simply has no nodes. It is fairly pliable so I could bend some movement in to this, although it slopes up nicely at the moment any way. Has some damage under it, where you can see brown colouring, unsure how that is but no big deal. The 2 branches off of it are cut back and have changes of direction also.

branch 3, you don't really want branches growing from the inside of a curve. goes against the movement of the tree
 

ConorDash

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Alright alright, point well made!

C5E8C3E9-4FA7-4E89-9F2C-24BA3C30A026.jpeg0C366349-DC07-4E6A-B463-69A6C2D8EEF0.jpeg

Thank you for the replies guys’
@papymandarin @barrosinc @TomB

In future, I’ll chop back more of the stubs that will be left over, to make it cleaner. From my brief experience of maples, there’s always stubs to clean up and get rid of :).
I can cut the lower back further once buds pop.
 
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