Yes.... an important note here! Paul is referring to my comment about stating that root grafts are an exception (post17). Although they are, it is also important to know that arakawa is indeed a unique case. Otherwise you’d end up with a tree with rough as well as smooth bark roots!! No bueno!
If you are doing a thread graft in early spring before buds swell, would you not want the scion wedged to the bottom to receive nutrients in order to make leaves?
If you are doing a thread graft in early spring before buds swell, would you not want the scion wedged to the bottom to receive nutrients in order to make leaves?
I've just seen this thread. I successfully thread grafted my JM mid summer after a full defoliation of the tree. I was able to cut the #1 doner branch off at the end of the year but kept the #2 doner branch attached for a bit longer as it wasn't as vigorous. I just cut the stems back as close as I could without damaging the leaf bud and drilled a slightly bigger whole. You still need to make sure you have a bud as close to the trunk as possible to cut back to when the time comes to start building the branch and also you need to make sure that the whip is long enough so it pokes out from the main canopy of the tree otherwise it will just be shaded out and possibly fail.
...you need to make sure that the whip is long enough so it pokes out from the main canopy of the tree otherwise it will just be shaded out and possibly fail.
Its common sense once its pointed out, but I don't know that I've ever thought about that. Of course, I've never threadgrafted on a tree with density enough to warrant the consideration, but that's handy to keep in mind.
The other thing is angle too. I think some forget to angle the tip upwards with either wire or the natural angle of the drill hole. This has a big impact on vigour.