Per someone’s suggestion, I’ve been thinking about thread grafting this little trident maple. I’ve never done this process before and was wondering if any of you guys had feedback on doing this on this particular tree, the best time, and even placement. Also, how long do these little whips/branches take to grow into the cambium? Thanks !
Thread Grafting ?
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SeanS
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Where were you thinking of grafting? You don’t have to thread graft, you could also approach graft on your tree depending on the location
Well I was looking for some ideas, but thinking of ways to increase the canopy, possibly on the right side where there’s a gap. I literally have never done this and was just seeing if it would be a good idea
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
In an effort to make this the best it could be, I'd aim to layer it about half way up the trunk.
Better Rootflare, you get your canopy filled, with the benefit of taper.
Unless you're thread grafting a new second segment of trunk to cut back to, it doesn't make much sense to thread graft a smaller branch below stronger ones, and you don't get the other benefits.
Sorce
Better Rootflare, you get your canopy filled, with the benefit of taper.
Unless you're thread grafting a new second segment of trunk to cut back to, it doesn't make much sense to thread graft a smaller branch below stronger ones, and you don't get the other benefits.
Sorce
Potawatomi13
Imperial Masterpiece
Roots already look decent, trunk has "some" taper. Why reinvent the wheel
? Based also on leaf size branching much closer to ground will make trunk largely invisible. "Perhaps" one branch about 33% down from big rt branch and about 33% around trunk from rt side toward front could be useful but not necessarily needed.
? Based also on leaf size branching much closer to ground will make trunk largely invisible. "Perhaps" one branch about 33% down from big rt branch and about 33% around trunk from rt side toward front could be useful but not necessarily needed.Shibui
Imperial Masterpiece
Thread grafts are reliable but by no means a sure thing so be prepared for occasional failure.
Best time for thread grafting deciduous is before the buds swell so late winter. After the buds swell you'll need a much larger hole to pass the stem through and obviously difficult to thread stem with leaves through a hole. In theory you could defoliate carefully and thread graft but that's all extra work.
How long to unite is like a piece of string. Depends on how well the trees is growing and how well the scion grows. I've found that scions bent down from the top of the tree to thread virtually stop growing (as do most branches below horizontal) so they take much longer to unite.
If everything is going well a good thread graft could unite in just a few months but it is more normal to graft in late winter then wait for next winter to separate the graft. Sometimes it has taken 2 years here when things were not going well.
As for grafting your trident maybe there are better ways?
Often we start too many branches because the branches are small. By the time they have ramified a bit they become crowded and I've found I need to remove many. maybe your tree is OK and just needs some time for the existing branches to ramify.
I can see a node on the second section of trunk that should sprout shoots if given the opportunity. Currently all the growth is at the top (which is normal) and will be supressing lower growth. For the long term style I would be pruning much harder in the crown. That may just allow some new shoots to emerge lower on the trunk.
Best time for thread grafting deciduous is before the buds swell so late winter. After the buds swell you'll need a much larger hole to pass the stem through and obviously difficult to thread stem with leaves through a hole. In theory you could defoliate carefully and thread graft but that's all extra work.
How long to unite is like a piece of string. Depends on how well the trees is growing and how well the scion grows. I've found that scions bent down from the top of the tree to thread virtually stop growing (as do most branches below horizontal) so they take much longer to unite.
If everything is going well a good thread graft could unite in just a few months but it is more normal to graft in late winter then wait for next winter to separate the graft. Sometimes it has taken 2 years here when things were not going well.
As for grafting your trident maybe there are better ways?
Often we start too many branches because the branches are small. By the time they have ramified a bit they become crowded and I've found I need to remove many. maybe your tree is OK and just needs some time for the existing branches to ramify.
I can see a node on the second section of trunk that should sprout shoots if given the opportunity. Currently all the growth is at the top (which is normal) and will be supressing lower growth. For the long term style I would be pruning much harder in the crown. That may just allow some new shoots to emerge lower on the trunk.
I find that the answer to the question "why am I doing this" helps answer the related question "how/where do I do this". So, for example, the answer to your question of where to thread graft will be answered by why are you choosing to graft in the first place. So, here are some possibilities:
You want to fatten up the lower portion of the trunk and buds are not popping/not not popping where you want them. A graft could be used to add a sacrifice branch to fatten up the trunk where you want it.
You want a new leader in the area between two existing nodes (an area where new buds aren't going to grow themselves). A graft could be used to create this new leader.
In short, I would pass on the graft unless and until you state a reason for needing a graft.
You can use the growth from this year to create shoots for grafting next year. Just let some shoots grow and then wire them into the position needed for the graft.
You want to fatten up the lower portion of the trunk and buds are not popping/not not popping where you want them. A graft could be used to add a sacrifice branch to fatten up the trunk where you want it.
You want a new leader in the area between two existing nodes (an area where new buds aren't going to grow themselves). A graft could be used to create this new leader.
In short, I would pass on the graft unless and until you state a reason for needing a graft.
You can use the growth from this year to create shoots for grafting next year. Just let some shoots grow and then wire them into the position needed for the graft.
@sorce @Potawatomi13 @Shibui @dbonsaiw Wow, Thanks for all the above feedback! 
I’m going to have to read it again, possibly a couple times and really think it through. My initial reason was to increase the canopy and make it more full and balanced, like an older natural tree. Of course I definitely would like to have a thicker trunk as well. It sounds like after reading some of these answers, perhaps I should re-evaluate late winter and see where the tree is at growth wise from this summer/fall. With ramification and a bit of pruning near the the top for more taper (and lower growth) as suggested, I might get the results that I need without a thread graft. If so, maybe a little bit of wiring of the lower branches might be all that’s needed or nothing at all. Time will tell. Thanks again for the feedback it was very helpful! I will see where this little guys at early next year. Cheers!
I’m going to have to read it again, possibly a couple times and really think it through. My initial reason was to increase the canopy and make it more full and balanced, like an older natural tree. Of course I definitely would like to have a thicker trunk as well. It sounds like after reading some of these answers, perhaps I should re-evaluate late winter and see where the tree is at growth wise from this summer/fall. With ramification and a bit of pruning near the the top for more taper (and lower growth) as suggested, I might get the results that I need without a thread graft. If so, maybe a little bit of wiring of the lower branches might be all that’s needed or nothing at all. Time will tell. Thanks again for the feedback it was very helpful! I will see where this little guys at early next year. Cheers!
penumbra
Imperial Masterpiece
^^^
My initial reason was to fill in the gap on the right to increase the canopy and make it more full and balanced, like an older natural tree. But in reading the advice above, I’m holding off to see how it continues to grow and fill in. (And grow whips in case I decide to) Never having attempted this and being so new, I’m glad you all have more vision and can help direct me. Thanks
penumbra
Imperial Masterpiece
I have seen many trees that would benefit from grafting. I don't think your's would benefit greatly. You have plenty of growth that can be trained and redirected. It seems to me that is where you should invest your time and energy.
