Tip blight?

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The description I read for tip blight said it would not affect all tips, but would later kill the entire branch, whereas in my case all tips are affected. For some background, I did an easy repot this spring.. but was gone for a week and it may have been sheltered from the sprinkler and dried out some, the we just had a week of solid rain just about. Maybe the new growth just gave up?
 

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Think this guy is toast or is there a chance it will pull through? There are very few unaffected tips.. like maybe one or two. I sprayed it with some 3-in -1 and no positive change since last update.
 

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Guys, for tip blight/phymopsis on junipers, use 5tsp/gal of Mancozeb after removing dead tissue. Disinfect tools once done.
Does this look like tip blight? The examples I’ve seen are less terminal and doesn’t effect all the tips. Also, not that I would remove all the foliage, but since nearly all the tips are affected...
 
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I ordered some Mancozeb even without the definitive diagnosis. I figure it couldn’t hurt at this point. Did I read correctly that this is approved for visible pants as well? I have a maple that was having issues after repotting this spring but pulled though and responded well to the Bayer 3-in-1, that could probably use and alternate follow-up treatment.
 
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^auto correct should read “safe for edible plants..?” Not “visible” ones. I don’t run into to many invisible plants unless you count plankton.. that gives me an idea for the worlds smallest bonsai.
 
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The mail-man delivereth (the Mancozeb). Do you really think I should trim off each brown spot before applying? Might as well hit up my maples and the other junipers that are looking healthy, right? Foliar and soil drench for all? The directions were surprisingly useless(for our application) on the bottle.
 

bwaynef

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My Mancozeb bottle says .88oz/Gallon for greenhouse/outdoor applications. That's 26mL. I add 6.5mL to 32 oz.
 
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Most of the brown parts teisted off easily and cleanly, so that’s what I did where I could instead of 1000 cuts. Is there any chance some of these were flowers/cones? There was a large crop of cones on a single branch last year but I didn’t pay attention to how they developed. The good news is there were very few dead branches but One small section near the top. I’m lookin forward to getting this healthy again so I can safely thin out the branching.
 

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fore

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Mancozeb only for junipers and elongating species. Good job removing dead tissue. Hit it again in 5dys. If you want this tree to live, leave alone for a yr to recuperate. It's extremely weak right now, any new insults(working the tree). Wait till it's SUPER bushy and healthy again, then have at it ;)
 
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Mancozeb only for junipers and elongating species. Good job removing dead tissue. Hit it again in 5dys. If you want this tree to live, leave alone for a yr to recuperate. It's extremely weak right now, any new insults(working the tree). Wait till it's SUPER bushy and healthy again, then have at it ;)

Ught oh, should I try to rinse the maples I applied it to?
 

fore

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Might be worth a try? TBH. I've never sprayed maples with it to know the tolerance.
 
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I see Mancozeb as a recommended treatment for some common "maple only" diseases, but is that meant for a dormant spray maybe? I didn't see any obvious wilting yet.
 
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This one is much healthier this year after the semi-regular mancozeb applications last year. I haven’t reapplied this year.
 

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Stormwater

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This one is much healthier this year after the semi-regular mancozeb applications last year. I haven’t reapplied this year.
So was that tip blight? My juniper exhibited something similar after it was under watered for a few days. I removed tips (though not as many) and haven’t seen more yet.
 
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So was that tip blight? My juniper exhibited something similar after it was under watered for a few days. I removed tips (though not as many) and haven’t seen more yet.
You know, I’m not sure what the cause was. I assumed it responded well to the mancozeb, but it is possible it was root damage from drought conditions that it eventually recovered from. I don’t remember the trees drying out more than some light wilting on the maples last year. I would think they would be toast before the juniper would show damage, but there are a lot of variables.
 

Stormwater

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Crap, why didn’t I think of that. We even have a microscope! What should I look for?
 
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Hey another mancozeb question: if I’m mixing up a gallon for a Japanese maple with some distorted and crunchy new leaves, should I go ahead and dose the Juniper, JBP, elms etc?
 
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