To dome or not to dome

[RyanSA]

Heya all.. please explain doming to me. I figured I live in an arid temp zone, doming might help. So in our scullery I have a few shelves with many cuttings. First there was a problem with mold. Then I cut holes in the domes. They deem to dry.. so I figured I would focus in buildings up the humidity ín the room, by keeping the door closed. So I removed the domes.. I frequently misted the cuttings but I fear they dried out.. so I put the domes back. Oh how do you succesfully propagate from cuttings?

 

[0soyoung]

Use the dome. Every few days (3) open the dome and spray thoroughly with a solution of 2 tablespoons 3% hydrogen peroxide (from the grocery/pharmacy) in a quart of water. Peroxide is an antiseptic that should solve your fungus problem - the spray will also refresh the humidity level.

With junipers, for example, I've had more success just putting them in an open pot under one of my benches. They are shaded, in hxumidity, and get watered every time the stuff on the bench does.

 

[Shibui]

In the scullery????
Cuttings with leaves need sunlight to make food to grow new roots. Place cuttings outside in well lit area but not full sun exposure. Light is important but outside can dry them out so the dome is important.
Dormant cuttings with no leaves do not need light but with no leaves they also don't need a dome to maintain humidity.
South Africa is now in spring. It may be slightly early to try many cuttings as half hard wood appears to be the easiest for most propagation.

More info needed: What species, what time of year, what propagating mix?

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

With enough airflow/movement, you can keep domes closed. But that's the thing: if they're closed, you will not get enough air flow.
I keep cuttings domed for the first two to three weeks, after that, the dessication process (drying) enhances root growth in most plant species.
Sphagnum has some antifungal properties as long as you keep it moist (not wet).

Keep the temperatures in mind too, a closed space can heat up fast.

Some tropical plants have the tendency to not root at all if the humidity is high enough.

Some pictures of whatever has failed for you can help us put together something that works. Usually the signs speak for themselves: rotten/black stems, foliage dessicating but not losing color, foliage losing color but not dropping, and so on.. Those are all diagnostic cues we can use. I've probably seen them all, and I have some bite-size literature ready for it.

 

[leatherback]

I chucked a bunch of juniper cuttings in a pot earlier this year. Because of hot weather and dry winds I wrapped the think in a plastic -transparant- bag after watering. Put it in a shaded part of the garden and forgot about them. 2 weeks ago I was cleaning up and found them. I pulled the pot out, topped it upside down and found.. 90% of them rooted.

 

[RyanSA]

In the scullery????
Cuttings with leaves need sunlight to make food to grow new roots. Place cuttings outside in well lit area but not full sun exposure. Light is important but outside can dry them out so the dome is important.
Dormant cuttings with no leaves do not need light but with no leaves they also don't need a dome to maintain humidity.
South Africa is now in spring. It may be slightly early to try many cuttings as half hard wood appears to be the easiest for most propagation.

More info needed: What species, what time of year, what propagating mix?

I try to keep two or tree leaves at the top. Cut in half. I try to keep the scullery window & door open to allow the most air & light possible. I reckoned harvesting cuttings in spring to have ready for spring growth. I will read up on it.. Is spring time better? I mainly try to use peat moss mixed with some perlite.

 

[Shibui]

Peat/perlite is a good propagating mix.
Early spring cuttings when plants are trying to grow new shoots can be challenging. May be better to try after initial growth has slowed a bit (late spring/ early summer) - that's when they have half hard or semi hard wood - shoots will still bend but will break if bent too far. Softwood is fresh new growth. Hardwood for cuttings is older parts that will usually break when you bend the shoot. When talking cuttings hardwood/softwood does not refer to conifer/broadleaf trees, rather to the state of the shoot so plants can have all types of wood.
Much depends on the species you are trying to grow. Some plants strike really easy, some can be challenging but will strike if conditions are right, others extremely difficult even for the best techniques and conditions so let us know what species you are trying to grow.
I don't know what conditions are like in your scullery but still not convinced it would be the best place for cuttings.