Kiani
Mame
HOLY CRAP! I just found out about 'air layering'. So there's a way to save the big branch and have it as a second crabbie?
To reduce or not to reduce? (crabapple)
- Thread starter Kiani
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Kiani
Mame
I've spent the last hour reading and watching videos on air layering. I feel like a baby whos just discovered how to walk, the rest of you probably think it's nothing but imagine this was your first time learning about air layering! Wow.
So I've tried reading up about air layering crabs and many including Graham Potter who did a video tutorial on air layering a crab thinks that now is the best time to do it, early spring before buds open. I know exactly where I want to do the air layer, as highlighted by the orange line. Any advice/comments/critique on air layering this crab would be so appreciated! I think the branch on the left has some potential in the future to make a nice bonsai.
So I've tried reading up about air layering crabs and many including Graham Potter who did a video tutorial on air layering a crab thinks that now is the best time to do it, early spring before buds open. I know exactly where I want to do the air layer, as highlighted by the orange line. Any advice/comments/critique on air layering this crab would be so appreciated! I think the branch on the left has some potential in the future to make a nice bonsai.
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Stan Kengai
Omono
Kiani, Sorry I missed your reply yesterday. The virt you did is very close to what I had envisioned. What do you think of it?
As far as removing or air-layering the left side, I would wait until next year because that side is going to contain over half of your foliage. I know you're excited and it's hard to leave your "new toy" alone, but just let the tree recover from transplanting this year. The only thing I would do this year is remove the flowers as soon as they fade, so you don't waste the plants energy setting fruit. When I say remove the spent flowers, I mean cut them off by their thin green (sometimes pink) stems. Do not cut the flowering spurs (with bark on them) that you currently see on the plant.
I think it's a good idea to air-layer that section, you could get two nice crabs with great movement for the price of one. But air-layering a section that large will really tax the root system because while the roots will still be sending water to the layered section, the layer will not be sending food back to the roots. Layering this year would most likely fail, and could possibly kill the whole tree. Even is the layer were to take this year, the rocking motion caused by sawing off the layer could be enough to kill the new roots.
As far as removing or air-layering the left side, I would wait until next year because that side is going to contain over half of your foliage. I know you're excited and it's hard to leave your "new toy" alone, but just let the tree recover from transplanting this year. The only thing I would do this year is remove the flowers as soon as they fade, so you don't waste the plants energy setting fruit. When I say remove the spent flowers, I mean cut them off by their thin green (sometimes pink) stems. Do not cut the flowering spurs (with bark on them) that you currently see on the plant.
I think it's a good idea to air-layer that section, you could get two nice crabs with great movement for the price of one. But air-layering a section that large will really tax the root system because while the roots will still be sending water to the layered section, the layer will not be sending food back to the roots. Layering this year would most likely fail, and could possibly kill the whole tree. Even is the layer were to take this year, the rocking motion caused by sawing off the layer could be enough to kill the new roots.
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JudyB
Queen of the Nuts
You would have to air layer it for that to happen. Looks like a nice color flower you have, and bloom before leaves is a good thing... Sometimes mine gets leaves first, and sometimes flowers. It's always nicer looking with just flowers first.
I must default to Stan's initial assessment. Doing much more to this tree right now might be too much. Even the chop would be drastic for a newly field dug tree. An air-layer is going to rob a considerable amount of energy that would otherwise being going into the mother tree's root system which is already compromised from being dug up two weeks ago. Even though I like some risk usually. There is potential here and you know the tree is just beginning to recover(those buds you showed us) so maybe just let it tackle one obstacle at a time.
Consider making a time table for the work on this tree. Work in stages and consider the health of the tree as priority number one. Work in stages.
JudyB
Queen of the Nuts
I totally agree with Randy and Stan on this, you need to proceed with caution or you'll jeopardize what could be a nice tree down the road. I was only making the air layer suggestion, not intending it for this year.
rockm
Spuds Moyogi
You're rushing this tree, but live and learn...
Kiani
Mame
Thank you Stan and everyone else. I'm just learning about what the possibilities are for this tree. I definitely won't touch it this year
I like it, and you were right. I've realized that these kind of reductions and chops are all part of making a good bonsai, and how taper is key to working towards that. I'm just glad that there is a way to save the cut off branch as it has some nice movement and thickness.
I like it, and you were right. I've realized that these kind of reductions and chops are all part of making a good bonsai, and how taper is key to working towards that. I'm just glad that there is a way to save the cut off branch as it has some nice movement and thickness.
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Kiani
Mame
If I am understanding air layering right, this tree would be a good candidate for it?
Dav4
Drop Branch Murphy
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Hmmm...I don't think so. Pine trees are rarely air layered, and I'm not sure why you think this tree would be a good candidate.
Kiani
Mame
Hmmm...I don't think so. Pine trees are rarely air layered, and I'm not sure why you think this tree would be a good candidate.
1) There's no lower branches
2) that trunk could be used to make an even better bonsai than what it is now
3) the top half of the tree by itself would also make a nicer bonsai
Why exactly are pines not good for air layering?
Cheers
JudyB
Queen of the Nuts
They do not root easily, and it can take 2 -3 years to have an air layer "take" on a pine. This tree has a nice base, and movement in the trunk. These are both reasons for air layering (if your tree does not have these attributes). So although the top would make a nice tree by itself, as a whole, I do not see an air layer here, especially as it is a pine. Go read more and take another look, you seem willing to learn at least.
Dav4
Drop Branch Murphy
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If it was a deciduous tree I might agree with you, but I find the image of this tree fairly convincing as far as pine bonsai go, which it is. Even if I could easily air-layer this tree, I probably wouldn't.
Pines are notoriously difficult to air layer...Ryan Neil told my club at a meeting last year that many JBP air layers in Japanese bonsai nurseries are expected to take up to EIGHT years to complete.
Kiani
Mame
WOW, that long huh. Thanks Judy and Dav for your continued guidance.
Ang3lfir3
Omono
If I am understanding air layering right, this tree would be a good candidate for it?
this tree is a candidate for a better pot.... but not airlayering ...... its quite a fine literati ... tho the lower branch on the left could be thinned and shortened a little I think...
Kiani
Mame
I was hoping that my crab was the variety that had white flowers like this..
I forgot to ask before buying it. The pink flowers are nice too, but I think the white ones look nicer. What do you all think?
I forgot to ask before buying it. The pink flowers are nice too, but I think the white ones look nicer. What do you all think?
Ang3lfir3
Omono
the likely hood is that its probably a white flowering species.... they often have a pink blush to them....
personally i like them all... as long as they are not the overly fluffy double flowering varieties ...
personally i like them all... as long as they are not the overly fluffy double flowering varieties ...
Kiani
Mame
Yes the white flowers do have a slight pink blush but I think what I have is probably one of these?
Malus toringo Scarlett' - Red Crab Apple Blossom
http://www.johnstowngardencentre.ie...-red-crab-apple-blossom/malus_scarlettpd.aspx
The same pic of my tree, posted on page 4:
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Kiani
Mame
I'm thinking way ahead here but is it possible to graft branches of the white flower crab on to my pink flower crab in the future and have a tree that produces both white and pink flowers, or have I been watching too much Frankenstein?
If it is possible, I think it would look really nice in bonsai.
If it is possible, I think it would look really nice in bonsai.
Ang3lfir3
Omono
lol ur right I think you do in deed have a pink on .... for some reason I must have missed it before....
theoretically you could graft branches of a white flowering crab on a pink flowering crab... similar to how quinces are grafted.... might be interesting ....
.... for some reason I must have missed it before....theoretically you could graft branches of a white flowering crab on a pink flowering crab... similar to how quinces are grafted.... might be interesting ....
