Tractor supply safety sorb

Joe Dupre'

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Take from this what you will. This is just the facts. Mulberry stump............two years from collection. Soil mix ( all sifted) 50% pine bark, 25% Napa 8822, 25% Safety Sorb. Results...........very satisfying growth and health, pot completely slammed with fine hair roots, soil just fell out of root ball with a little chopsticking. Very nice soil appearance.

Example of some of the root growth. Note root growth from cut root section.

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Soil as it came out of the pot after two years.

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After seeing the soil, I was sorely tempted to rescue it from the compost pile.

Mulberry today after repotting.

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Firstflush

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Are the NAPA and Safety basically the same component?
 

Joe Dupre'

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Are the NAPA and Safety basically the same component?
The Napa product is diatomaceous earth (tiny fossilized algae skeletons) and the Safety Sorb is calcined clay (fired for hardness). I feel they physically ACT the same way in a pot, but have different chemical and mineral contents.
 

MapleLeaf

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The Napa product is diatomaceous earth (tiny fossilized algae skeletons) and the Safety Sorb is calcined clay (fired for hardness). I feel they physically ACT the same way in a pot, but have different chemical and mineral contents.
I have wanted to try both/either of these. I hope I can find them locally in NC.
 

Joe Dupre'

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I have wanted to try both/either of these. I hope I can find them locally in NC.
Napa might have to order the 8822. Make sure you use the #8822.......that's their part number. New employees might try to slip something else by you. If in a bind, generic oil absorbant MAY work. Soak a test sample in water for a few weeks. If it turns to mush, keep looking. I think O'Reilly and Autozone have similar diatomaceous earth oil absorbant that I've read works also.
 

MapleLeaf

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Napa might have to order the 8822. Make sure you use the #8822.......that's their part number. New employees might try to slip something else by you. If in a bind, generic oil absorbant MAY work. Soak a test sample in water for a few weeks. If it turns to mush, keep looking. I think O'Reilly and Autozone have similar diatomaceous earth oil absorbant that I've read works also.
Thank you. This is extremely valuable to know!!! Adding it to my notes.
 

19Mateo83

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Is the same safety sorb from tractor supply?
 

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Michael P

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I've used both #8822 and SafeTSorb with similar good results. Aesthetically, I much prefer the SafeTSorb because it is a mix of attractive colors in the medium gray range instead of white 8822.
 

butlern

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Interesting. Im very interested in alternative soil mixes. But those roots do look a bit long a stringy, rather than short and fibrous. But vigorous growth for sure.

might have to sample some of this material in the spring. thanks all for sharing.
 

TN_Jim

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Interesting thread. I’m not shocked by results having used sifted 8822 and pine bark without fail for years now. Ive However, I have never used STSorb.

Curious how this product breaks down for you in comparison to 8822? Also, what do you think about how it holds water in comparison? Did you find any roots growing literally through it -Ive found fine roots growing into and through 8822.

Anybody, being clay, what is the difference in STS and turface…sure looks different there any information on the CEC of STS?… Seems this has been found somewhere or maybe I’m just thinking of 8822.

Would be interesting to see a side by side equal ratio experiment rather than in same mix. So easy just stating things like this huh!? Ha!

I have been curious about this product for awhile. Thanks
 

Joe Dupre'

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Well, it didn't seem to break down very much in two years. Also, there was no sludge on the bottom or sides of the pot. I'm not one to go a long time without repotting. Every one or two years for fast growing trees is my norm. I repot bald cypress every year. Roots are normally up to 3 feet long in one growing season. I'd guess STS is very similar to turface. I have not a clue about the CEC. At this point, I'm not concerned with knowing all the particulars about my mix. It works perfectly fine for my purposes and I'm cool with that.


One year's growth with bald cypress in my mix. That'll work.

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Joe Dupre'

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Interesting. Im very interested in alternative soil mixes. But those roots do look a bit long a stringy, rather than short and fibrous. But vigorous growth for sure.

might have to sample some of this material in the spring. thanks all for sharing.

Long and stringy or short and fibrous...........Is one better than the other? It may be just the habit of the particular type of tree.....I don't know. I'll take vigorous growth, no matter the shape of the roots.
 

bwaynef

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A tree that needs to be repotted shouldn't have soil that just falls away. For growing out, that may be an adequate mix, but the quality of the root growth doesn't look like what you'll need in order to refine the tree. Je ne sais quoi.
 

Joe Dupre'

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Like I wrote earlier, it works perfectly fine for my use. If I ever feel it does not, then I'll be happy to change.
 

Frozentreehugger

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Use of absorbent as or in bonsai soil . Has been debated for awhile . Many unblushing experts like Ryan Neal hate the stuff or at least warn use it only in lower percentages in a mix . Others love the stuff . I feel they are all essential the same product or achieve the same results as soil amendment . I use what is available product name Oil Dry normally 25 percent of compost first off it retains its structure and does not break down even freeze thaw cycle very important to me it’s purpose is a absorbent so it soaks up and retains water and whatever is in the water . It’s detractors argue it’s main disadvantage is it does not want to give the water back up . I find this not to be true the particles are a good indication of soil dryness for me organics in the mix normally retain water longer or spear to stay wet longer . Interesting observation collected tree Ostrya Virginiana American hop hornbeam or northern ironwood . First planted in wooden grow box normal bonsai mix I was lazy had the box already tree roots fit in 2/3 of the rectangle box leaving 1 end not used filled the end with 100 percent oil dry 2 years latter the pure oil dry contained a mass of fibrous healthy roots more so than the regular soil Leading to experimentation the same attempt with conifers Tsuga Canadensis and thuja occidentallis Both moisture loving plants did not yield the same results roots grew well in the oil dry but not noticeable better than the bonsai soil take the info how you want like I said there are a lot of bonsai pros that don’t like it it’s cheap easy to find. I can certainly relate to using better product in a limited space small pot of a refined finished tree but you go thru a lot of soil to get there in the life of a tree If you use these products take safety precautions wear a breathing mask while sifting it the dust is known to be harmful to your respiratory system
 

Joe Dupre'

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My thing is that I believe results. You may tell me that what I use does not work well, but you CANNOT tell me that what I've experienced first hand is wrong. If I've used it and it has worked for me, then......case closed. Now, I may want to consider using the "right" stuff at some point, but you can't nullify my hands-on experience. That bald cypress up above went from a completely bare stump to our local show in 3 years. I'll take that any day.
 

Frozentreehugger

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My thing is that I believe results. You may tell me that what I use does not work well, but you CANNOT tell me that what I've experienced first hand is wrong. If I've used it and it has worked for me, then......case closed. Now, I may want to consider using the "right" stuff at some point, but you can't nullify my hands-on experience. That bald cypress up above went from a completely bare stump to our local show in 3 years. I'll take that any day.
Have you ever tried it pure as in 100 percent . I have been tempted For one a freshly collected tree to establish roots for 1 year. Or second as a air layer medium especially in the wild. For its water retention properties . Think I’ll try that this year
 
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