Training/Grow Pots

[Lars Grimm]

IMO, it's best to work on roots and trunk development at the same time. They kind of go hand in hand honestly. They also take the longest to develop so best to get stared asap.

As your trunk grows, you are also developing the root structure. You are also trying to develop nebari, not just getting it into a bonsai pot eventually. If your training pot is too deep, the tree will send roots deep, its what they do. Then you have to mess with them again later. If they get too big before you correct the problems, it can cause other problems or possibly kill the tree.

Ramification and branch development comes after the trunk and roots are developed not during.

A pond basket can be fine for getting very small trees going but not the best for proper nebari development.

I completely agree with this approach. I think the pond baskets work best for early collected or air-layered material to get it really healthy and vigorous.

 

[ConorDash]

IMO, it's best to work on roots and trunk development at the same time. They kind of go hand in hand honestly. They also take the longest to develop so best to get stared asap.

As your trunk grows, you are also developing the root structure. You are also trying to develop nebari, not just getting it into a bonsai pot eventually. If your training pot is too deep, the tree will send roots deep, its what they do. Then you have to mess with them again later. If they get too big before you correct the problems, it can cause other problems or possibly kill the tree.

Ramification and branch development comes after the trunk and roots are developed not during.

A pond basket can be fine for getting very small trees going but not the best for proper nebari development.

I understand. See my thinking was that the grow box or large box, would obviously promote root growth and promotes a very strong, healthy growing tree. Which helps it thicken up or recover from air layering etc. So keeping the roots, long and strong, would help it do those things. By cutting them back and keeping them short, I thought it'd make those other things not do as well.

Well, the tree in question is my Acer P. I believe I am going to chop it lower and start a fresh with it this year, so the strong growth is what I need. This is however, dependant on it being healthy enough to chop in the first place. It has had its issues and I have no way of knowing if these issues still exist. Its currently in a 10" diameter pot, and I have ordered a few more pots, same style, 1 14" and 12" so I was going to put it in the much bigger 14" pot. Doesn't have the holes as a pond basket does, but hoping the extra room will help it enough.
Do you think this is a good plan?

 

[milehigh_7]

I understand. See my thinking was that the grow box or large box, would obviously promote root growth and promotes a very strong, healthy growing tree. Which helps it thicken up or recover from air layering etc. So keeping the roots, long and strong, would help it do those things. By cutting them back and keeping them short, I thought it'd make those other things not do as well.

Well, the tree in question is my Acer P. I believe I am going to chop it lower and start a fresh with it this year, so the strong growth is what I need. This is however, dependant on it being healthy enough to chop in the first place. It has had its issues and I have no way of knowing if these issues still exist. Its currently in a 10" diameter pot, and I have ordered a few more pots, same style, 1 14" and 12" so I was going to put it in the much bigger 14" pot. Doesn't have the holes as a pond basket does, but hoping the extra room will help it enough.
Do you think this is a good plan?

Think surface area to absorb nutrients, oxygen, and water. Long and unbranched == low surface area, close to trunk and highly ramified == massive surface area. Also MUCH easier to transplant into a smaller container later. Go read @Smokes threads just do what he does and you won't go wrong on development. I have learned more from him actually showing what to do than I can even begin to tell you. Read everything at his blog as well. https://bonsaial.wordpress.com/

 

[ConorDash]

Think surface area to absorb nutrients, oxygen, and water. Long and unbranched == low surface area, close to trunk and highly ramified == massive surface area. Also MUCH easier to transplant into a smaller container later. Go read @Smokes threads just do what he does and you won't go wrong on development. I have learned more from him actually showing what to do than I can even begin to tell you. Read everything at his blog as well. https://bonsaial.wordpress.com/

It's not the first time his blog has come recommended lol. I have read a few of his blog entries and posts here too. I will make it a priority to read more of his blog . Thank you.
And it makes sense what you said about surface area. If that's truly the way it works, then fair enough, I see . Basically, the short, highly ramified fine roots, developed correctly by training and fitting in to a bonsai pot, are good for supporting and keeping a tree healthy.

 

[Timbo]

Why not just stick tile or a slab of wood over rocks/soil to the height you want in a pond basket? I like the pond baskets for space, money and the right balance of water retention/drying out. Depending on the size i find some colanders dry out too fast for trees like Bald cypress. Just a suggestion....different climate too so you many have diff results.

You could just cut off the top also, for those prices it would be hard for me to pass up. Being cheap as i am!