Transferring Chinese Elm Cuttings out of humidity dome?

[power270lb]

My elm cuttings are all growing, some even forming aerial roots. Been close to two months, right now under low powered grow lights with plastic over the container. Wondering when it'd be good to remove the dome, transfer to separate containers and a stronger light source? Stems are skinny but they're growing.

 

[JesusFreak]

If they have root I’d remove the dome. Continue watering though. Might wait a month or so until you repot or transplant

 

[Redwood Ryan]

You sure they're growing aerial roots? Not sure if elms are capable of that. You have photos?

 

[leatherback]

I always open these domes over time. This e.g. by puttibng the top up a little with a chopstick in the gap. This way you reduce the humidity, but not so strong as if you would remove it.

 

[Shibui]

So much depends on ambient conditions. In most places the dome could be removed right off and the cuttings will adjust bit in really dry air conditions it may be safer to follow the @leatherback gradual acclimatization. I would feel confident in removing the dome and moving to sun as it should not be too strong for the trees in NJ this early in spring.

 

[power270lb]

You sure they're growing aerial roots? Not sure if elms are capable of that. You have photos?

It's very faint but u can see two growing, I'll take the dome off and get a better picture but the two shoots are new and not branches.

 

[power270lb]

I always open these domes over time. This e.g. by puttibng the top up a little with a chopstick in the gap. This way you reduce the humidity, but not so strong as if you would remove it.

So this is mine held up with 4 skewers and I spray the sides whenever I don't see any water. Would making it closer be better? How often do u water?

 

[power270lb]

So much depends on ambient conditions. In most places the dome could be removed right off and the cuttings will adjust bit in really dry air conditions it may be safer to follow the @leatherback gradual acclimatization. I would feel confident in removing the dome and moving to sun as it should not be too strong for the trees in NJ this early in spring.

Its still relatively chilly here, I have a setup that has 3 spider farmer SF-1000s enclosed in mylar so wondering if a transfer there would be ok until it's warmer and I can put outside. Atm it's in a mix of 2/3 perlite and 1/3 fox farms ocean soil. When I do transfer to separate containers, what size do you recommend and what soil mix? I have 50 lbs worth of DE, lava rock, Pumice, fir bark, fox farms ocean soil etc. All have roots but some are less developed than others. My chinese elm is growing out of control but it's very weepy, not a traditional Chinese elm it's more like a willow. Want the tree to grow and get thicker but the branches are almost touching the ground, any recommendations?

 

[Shibui]

JBP are quite cold hardy even as seedlings 'cold' is a relative term and I have no idea what 'still relatively chilly' means. As we do not experience the same 'cold' that NJ does I am also not really qualified to give you definitive advice on that front. My JBP seedlings are quite happy to grow outside with night temps just below freezing occasionally.

All my trees are in the same standard potting soil. Pines will grow in a whole range of soil mixes so just use what you are used to with other trees. I find it much easier to manage all pots with the same mix. II know that some swear bu different mixes for different trees but I find having some different creates problems with watering and management. Again what works for some may not be right for others but all will work.

I can see you are searching for definitive black and white answers but there is no set time or size for transplant or for container sizes. I usually transfer seedlings into 11cm diameter black plastic pots for the first year. Not sure what size that equates to in US terms as you seem to refer to pots by volume. Seems to be better not to go too big in one jump as soil the roots cannot use can cause problems before the trees grow large enough.
I usually start transplanting JBP seedlings when I can hold them easily. Often that's when they just have the first cluster of needles soon after germination but I also transplant when they have grown stems a bit longer. Sometimes they get to a year or 2 old before I transplant for the first time. It does not seem to make a of of difference although the ones that are transplanted early do row faster as the roots have more room in the larger containers.

Your light setup sounds OK for indoor growing and the seedlings should be fine for a few more weeks if necessary but I have no experience with grow lights.

The Chinese elm growth is not unusual, especially under lights where shoots tend to be longer and softer and may not be able to hold their weight. There are also some varieties that have more weeping habit than others. As bonsai growers we have the power and technique to direct growth. Pruning those new shoots will make a big difference but you are the one that gets to decide what shape your tree will be.

 

[power270lb]

JBP are quite cold hardy even as seedlings 'cold' is a relative term and I have no idea what 'still relatively chilly' means. As we do not experience the same 'cold' that NJ does I am also not really qualified to give you definitive advice on that front. My JBP seedlings are quite happy to grow outside with night temps just below freezing occasionally.

All my trees are in the same standard potting soil. Pines will grow in a whole range of soil mixes so just use what you are used to with other trees. I find it much easier to manage all pots with the same mix. II know that some swear bu different mixes for different trees but I find having some different creates problems with watering and management. Again what works for some may not be right for others but all will work.

I can see you are searching for definitive black and white answers but there is no set time or size for transplant or for container sizes. I usually transfer seedlings into 11cm diameter black plastic pots for the first year. Not sure what size that equates to in US terms as you seem to refer to pots by volume. Seems to be better not to go too big in one jump as soil the roots cannot use can cause problems before the trees grow large enough.
I usually start transplanting JBP seedlings when I can hold them easily. Often that's when they just have the first cluster of needles soon after germination but I also transplant when they have grown stems a bit longer. Sometimes they get to a year or 2 old before I transplant for the first time. It does not seem to make a of of difference although the ones that are transplanted early do row faster as the roots have more room in the larger containers.

Your light setup sounds OK for indoor growing and the seedlings should be fine for a few more weeks if necessary but I have no experience with grow lights.

The Chinese elm growth is not unusual, especially under lights where shoots tend to be longer and softer and may not be able to hold their weight. There are also some varieties that have more weeping habit than others. As bonsai growers we have the power and technique to direct growth. Pruning those new shoots will make a big difference but you are the one that gets to decide what shape your tree will be.

That's the think I'm new (started in November) so I'm having some difficulty imagining a direction for the tree. Made a post about this last week, the original nursery made some strange cuts so the inside of the tree has a very dead forest vibe to it. Before I trimmed, leaves were very large and not much ramification. Since the leaves are much smaller with much better ramification. All I want is for the tree to grow, taller and bigger trunk. May just buy a new tree tbh.

 

[power270lb]

I always open these domes over time. This e.g. by puttibng the top up a little with a chopstick in the gap. This way you reduce the humidity, but not so strong as if you would remove it.

Would you transfer? Remove dome and move to better light source? If so what's the best way to make sure there's the least amount of shock?

 

[leatherback]

Looking good.

Thing with propagation is.. You need to watch them. If you remove the dome and the leaves start to dry out, you need to react. Probably, you can remove the dome. If you do, do not move it into stronger light for the first few days so it can respond. It might not be a problem. I find however that choosing the slower route does not affect growth much, but it can safe you from crisped leaves.

 

[power270lb]

Looking good.

Thing with propagation is.. You need to watch them. If you remove the dome and the leaves start to dry out, you need to react. Probably, you can remove the dome. If you do, do not move it into stronger light for the first few days so it can respond. It might not be a problem. I find however that choosing the slower route does not affect growth much, but it can safe you from crisped leaves.

Copy that thank you brother

 

[Shibui]

All I want is for the tree to grow, taller and bigger trunk. May just buy a new tree tbh.

There are many ways to direct growth of our trees and most trees can be changed into something better. Trees you are not happy with are ideal to try new techniques as it doesn't really matter if something goes wrong. Sounds like this one could become your learning tree but could still become a good bonsai.
The simplest is by pruning. Cut any growth heading in the wrong direction (including undesirable branches in the middle of the tree) and allow shoots heading in the correct direction to grow a bit longer. Chinese elm respond very well to pruning. You can even cut all branches off Chinese elm and it will just grow new shoots from all over.
We also use wire to bend branches into better places. After a few months the wires can be removed and branches (usually) stay where they were put.


Bonsai is not instant unless you have lots of money and can pay for someone else to have already done the long years of development.
Good bonsai takes even longer.