Trident alternative

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Yamadori
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The trident maple is clearly one of the most utilized and valued trees for bonsai, and for good reason. It's natural characteristics lend itself perfectly to bonsai, but much of it's popularity is also due to tradition.
Are there any other broad-leaved trees that you think can match or exceed the all-around bonsai capability of the trident, based on your growing experience? (hardiness, reducible leaf size, growth rate, wound healing ability, nebari, works well for large and small bonsai, etc)
Japanese maples are an obvious contender for the same reasons, but I would hope to get more creative answers.
 
Yaupon Holly have lots of that traits with berry advantage but no fall leaf color. :D

Crape Myrtle is another that have most of the same characteristic plus peeling bark and flowers. :)
 
Winged Elm - tiny leaves, great ramification, native, fast developing, and perhaps even more bullet proof than Trident. One of the most under-appreciated species of which I am aware!
John
 
Winged Elm - tiny leaves, great ramification, native, fast developing, and perhaps even more bullet proof than Trident. One of the most under-appreciated species of which I am aware!
John

Cedar Elm is the same (some are winged also). Good that I have access to it and have some in my collection (all free). :)
 
I like the water elm, Planara aquatica -- which, of course, is NOT an elm.
 
Although steeped in tradition as well, I would also mention beech and in particular Japanese white beech. The winter silhouette alone coupled with the white bark makes this tree an absolute standout.
 
as far as deciduous goes I would second crape myrtle and winged elm. Evergreen maybe olive
 
I like the water elm, Planara aquatica -- which, of course, is NOT an elm.

I've heard these are great and they grow in my area, but I have not seen very many good examples of well-developed specimens. I will have to grab my shovel and go snag one when summer rolls around.
 
I've heard these are great and they grow in my area, but I have not seen very many good examples of well-developed specimens. I will have to grab my shovel and go snag one when summer rolls around.

I have several...mostly seedlings and sapling size in forest plantings...agreed that they are decent material but don't let them dry out! I keep mine in trays of water just like bald cypress.

John
 
Either of the two korean hornbeams.
 
How about the Amur maple?

I have seen some nice ones- at the NC Arboretum for instance, Arthur has a couple in that collection I think- but it seems the common conception is that the Amur Maple has growth that is too... Substantial to be a great Bonsai species. The same is sometime said of Japanese Maple though, and that is perhaps my FAVORITE species to work with. Obviously- since I have seen plenty of example of people successfully using them- the Amur Maple is a decent candidate, just saying I know a lot of people are kind of down on them. For Yamadori it has to be considered as it is one of the most commonly found trees across most of the US! They have fantastic Fall and Spring color, and while the fast growth rate might mean it grows out of form fast in a refined specimen- that can be checked by keeping the roots tight, and the speed of the growth speeds development of young trees if they are allowed to grow. Fine branch ramification might be a challenge, but I don't know that from experience.
 
Trident Maples are probably top of the list for trees I wish I could grow here, I would love to find an equivalent with more cold tolerance than a trident. Amur maples are on of the more obvious prospects. I have been growing a few trunks for a while now. A couple negatives I've often heard about Amurs is that they have a tendency to die back and that they are difficult to get good ramification. I am hoping that specific pruning method ie timing and placement of pruning cuts can overcome these issues, I have some ideas that I'm looking forward to trying out but it'll be a number of years yet before I'll know. I terms of the ability to bulk up a trunk quickly, heal wounds and develop good nebari my sugar maples appear superior to the Amur maples, course then there's the massive leaf issue. I'm planning long term, large size trees for the sugars. The native Douglas Maples here have amazing leaf characteristics, small, delicate foliage great colour especially when emerging in spring also nice in fall. Got some of them going too but I suspect dieback will be an issue and trunk building will take forever, we will see. I wonder, could I graft douglas maple foliage to a sugar maple trunk? Hmmm.
 
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Trident Maples are probably top of the list for trees I wish I could grow here, I would love to find an equivalent with more cold tolerance than a trident. Amur maples are on of the more obvious prospects. I have been growing a few trunks for a while now. A couple negatives I've often heard about Amurs is that they have a tendency to die back and that they are difficult to get good ramification. I am hoping that specific pruning method ie timing and placement of pruning cuts can overcome these issues, I have some ideas that I'm looking forward to trying out but it'll be a number of years yet before I'll know. I terms of the ability to bulk up a trunk quickly, heal wounds and develop good nebari my sugar maples appear superior to the Amur maples, course then there's the massive leaf issue. I'm planning long term, large size trees for the sugars. The native Douglas Maples here have amazing leaf characteristics, small, delicate foliage great colour especially when emerging in spring also nice in fall. Got some of them going too but I suspect dieback will be an issue and trunk building will take forever, we will see. I wonder, could I graft douglas maple foliage to a sugar maple trunk? Hmmm.

In Northeastern China, there are a number of native acers which inhabit ranges reaching as far north as eastern Russia and which do not have extremely large leaves. I imagine some of those might be worth trying. Two that I've found are Acer pictum and Acer tataricum.
 
Thanks Daygan, I've read about the Tatar maple, sounds very similar to Amur, I'd like to give it a try. Never heard of acer pictum before, anyone tried one?

Mp
 
Another idea is Acer truncatum aka Shantung maple. I have one in the works. Developing the foundation though, roots, nebari, and trunk.

It has beautiful fissured bark. It's a tough maple in Texas heat, and it can withstand the cold here. The only negative things I've found so far are the long petioles and larger leaf. A larger bonsai or constant pruning of new growth could lessen or resolve those problems.

Additionally, new cultivars of A. truncatum are being patented as we speak by a man in Ft. Worth. He also has some smaller leafed dwarf types along with others.
 
I like the winged elm, too.

A couple more that have not been mentioned: Chinese elm (ulmus parvifolia, various cultivers). Why not mentioned? Too common? Too much known as a "beginners tree"? Other disadvanteges?

The Chinese hackberry has been mentioned. What about native alternatives? The common hackberry, celtis occidentalis, seems a good choice. I have one in early development.

Oliver
 
I like the winged elm, too.

A couple more that have not been mentioned: Chinese elm (ulmus parvifolia, various cultivers). Why not mentioned? Too common? Too much known as a "beginners tree"? Other disadvanteges?

The Chinese hackberry has been mentioned. What about native alternatives? The common hackberry, celtis occidentalis, seems a good choice. I have one in early development.

Oliver

Chinese elm was going to be my species suggestion. I think aren't as popular, because of the infamous mallsai. I started growing a couple Chinese elms 3 years ago, and they are extremely fast growers! They take winter without a hitch(I receive twiggy dieback on tridents in the ground--probably dry winds etc.). Leaf size reduces by a ton! Layers so readily, you could be blind-folded. They are a pretty nice species to work with. Now, after saying all of that, I don't think they have the same finished look as a Japanese/trident maple specimen. I know there are great Chinese elms out there, but the bark, and nebari aren't as nice in my opinion. I also find the twiggy refinement of maples to be more elegant. Finally, I prefer the maple leaf shape compared to the Chinese elm. Its still a great species to work with though! Certainly not as finicky as the maples can be, and they will match any trident in terms of rapid growth. Something Im not sure of though--fall color? My elms in the ground just turn browny/purple and drop their leaves.
 
Chinese elm was going to be my species suggestion. I think aren't as popular, because of the infamous mallsai. I started growing a couple Chinese elms 3 years ago, and they are extremely fast growers! They take winter without a hitch(I receive twiggy dieback on tridents in the ground--probably dry winds etc.). Leaf size reduces by a ton! Layers so readily, you could be blind-folded. They are a pretty nice species to work with. Now, after saying all of that, I don't think they have the same finished look as a Japanese/trident maple specimen. I know there are great Chinese elms out there, but the bark, and nebari aren't as nice in my opinion. I also find the twiggy refinement of maples to be more elegant. Finally, I prefer the maple leaf shape compared to the Chinese elm. Its still a great species to work with though! Certainly not as finicky as the maples can be, and they will match any trident in terms of rapid growth. Something Im not sure of though--fall color? My elms in the ground just turn browny/purple and drop their leaves.

Many will turn a bright yellow before turning brown, but the color of an Elm is never- from the ones I know of- close to an AP or Trident...
 
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