I am currently working on a trident maple whose size and movement are generally acceptable to me. I would like to begin developing its branching and wanted to know what to do with its existing branches. They are too large and haphazard, and I believe need to be removed. What is the best way to go about replacing existing branching? Do I just start cutting old branches off as new growth comes in?
Trident Branching - Logistics
- Thread starter dbonsaiw
- Start date
Deep Sea Diver
Imperial Masterpiece
Hmm… if might help this post if you update with a couple photos so folks can see what’s up. Otherwise the answer is likely to be it depends… Sounds like you are in a good place though…
My first question though…. perhaps more important imho… has the Nebari been worked on yet?
Cheers
DSD sends
My first question though…. perhaps more important imho… has the Nebari been worked on yet?
Cheers
DSD sends
The nebari is meh at this point. The tree has been repotted and roots pruned once in the year since I have it. I will graft additional roots next spring. Base could use some thickening still. I will send some pics later today. Maybe it’s too early to start on the branching, but I know it needs to be redone at some point.
Deep Sea Diver
Imperial Masterpiece
The general guideline of developing the roots as best as possible first doesn’t mean you can’t work on your primary structure unless you are going huge. Also, knowing my Tridents and seeing some of the Trident experts here, a Trident’s nebari will fill in nicely if attention is given to it by working the roots for a couple three years for a smaller tree.
Here’s a thread posted that might help… where we are experimenting on root working smaller Japanese and Trident maples. There are many threads posted here of folks working larger trees, especially Tridents, too.
Working on roots first isn’t very exciting, until the second year when the roots start looking better. Going backwards is harder to do imho, although root grafts are really fun. Just my thoughts.
cheers
DSD sends
Here’s a thread posted that might help… where we are experimenting on root working smaller Japanese and Trident maples. There are many threads posted here of folks working larger trees, especially Tridents, too.
Working on roots first isn’t very exciting, until the second year when the roots start looking better. Going backwards is harder to do imho, although root grafts are really fun. Just my thoughts.
cheers
DSD sends
Deep Sea Diver
Imperial Masterpiece
Nice! How big a bonsai do you desire to have? Almost looks like you could cut anywhere down the trunk to one of the many branches.
Of course I really like the idea of having a “Fat Boy”, so I’d go as low as possible… down, down, down to the lowest ot second lowest branch once the leaves harden off. Use the chosen branch for the next section. Yet your tree, your call!
Next spring I’d work the roots. Your grow box ought of helped promote some fine roots by then.
cheers
DSD sends
Of course I really like the idea of having a “Fat Boy”, so I’d go as low as possible… down, down, down to the lowest ot second lowest branch once the leaves harden off. Use the chosen branch for the next section. Yet your tree, your call!
Next spring I’d work the roots. Your grow box ought of helped promote some fine roots by then.
cheers
DSD sends
Shibui
Imperial Masterpiece
It is common for branches to be wrong angles and too stiff to move or too thick for any design. Best to completely remove existing branches and that's done routinely on field grown trees like this. Leave a short stub - around 1'4" to preserve the branch collar because that's where new buds will emerge. there's no problem removing all branches on trident because they are really good at growing from bare wood.
Wait for new shoots to grow. Allow them to start to harden because really new shoots are not attached well and will fall off when bent.
Wire new shoots to set initial angle. No need to wire the whole length because its almost certain you'll use chop and grow to develop bends and taper and ramification in the developing branches.
I agree that it appears too tall. I'd look for a convenient upright branch and chop so the branch becomes the new trunk. That chop can give a useful bend but if you really want a straight trunk leave a stump of old trunk to tie the new leader upright.
Wait for new shoots to grow. Allow them to start to harden because really new shoots are not attached well and will fall off when bent.
Wire new shoots to set initial angle. No need to wire the whole length because its almost certain you'll use chop and grow to develop bends and taper and ramification in the developing branches.
I agree that it appears too tall. I'd look for a convenient upright branch and chop so the branch becomes the new trunk. That chop can give a useful bend but if you really want a straight trunk leave a stump of old trunk to tie the new leader upright.
Same. I attach another pic of a trident that is my candidate for the fat boy. the angled and base of this guy seems to lend itself to a fat boy approach. Part of the reason I'd like to grow the other as a taller, straighter version. Dare I say a more Walter Pall naturalistic tree feel?
