Trident leaf issue

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Shohin
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Thanks for the feedback. It's good to know you yrident has improved.

Paul
 

Smoke

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Thanks for the feedback. It's good to know you yrident has improved.

Paul
I would enjoy reading any data you could provide on the fertilizer cause of anthracnose. I have read probably 50 pages over the last few days and can find no literature on maple blights or fungus from over fertilization or large amounts of nitrogen. I have always treated this as fungus with fungicide sprays in early spring when dew will hold on leaves over night. It seems to last a few weeks until temps move into the upper 60's at night, which for me is around the middle to late March. Fungicides have always worked well while I inject water soluable fertilizer 20-20-20 daily.
 

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I'm not sure anyone mentioned anthracnose. I doubt you'll find any information specifically regarding anthracnose, trident maple and nitrogen fertilizer.

However, I was talking about blights, which are bacterial in nature. Caused by many different types of bacteria, though Pseudomonas is commonly known. There is lots of information regarding blights and nitrogen fertilization, though specifically for tridents might be rare.

I suppose there is nothing like a lack of specific literature to disprove something. In contrast, with many people on this website the opposite also holds true, a bucket load of literature means nothing has been proved.

Glad you get results with your treatment.

Regarding using 20:20:20; it's the final concentration that is important, not the percentages. Are you injecting 60 ppm of N or only 15? I find that about 15 ppm (mg/L) N as ammonium works well in my yard as a daily dose (if you are interested).

Paul
 

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I mention it because anthracnose is extremely voracious in tridents in spring. This looks like anthracnose to me. Treatment is seldom neccessary as corrected watering habits will correct it on its own. I have 35 large to shohin size tridents and battle this constantly. I just cut the ugly leaves off and the plant responds in three weeks with great leaves that never come back in the claw shape, as by then the weather has sufficiently warmed up to preclude this.

Yes my injector is at 15 PPM. I Use Grow More cold water soluble fertilizer in my injector. Best fertilizer I have ever used. I can highly recommend it.

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Smoke

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I suppose there is nothing like a lack of specific literature to disprove something. In contrast, with many people on this website the opposite also holds true, a bucket load of literature means nothing has been proved.

Paul
As I said recently in another post, everything about bonsai is opinion as there are very few universal truths in anything we do with trees.
 

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I mention it because anthracnose is extremely voracious in tridents in spring. This looks like anthracnose to me. Treatment is seldom neccessary as corrected watering habits will correct it on its own. I have 35 large to shohin size tridents and battle this constantly. I just cut the ugly leaves off and the plant responds in three weeks with great leaves that never come back in the claw shape, as by then the weather has sufficiently warmed up to preclude this.

Thanks for your reply smoke. I'm glad to hear it is a common early Spring problem.

Btw, I've been reading your blog a bit, awesome stuff!
 

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Shohin
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"I mention it because anthracnose is extremely voracious in tridents in spring."

To be honest, I rarely see any sort of fungus in tridents here in my part of the world, not in my potted trees or those planted out in the ground, nor in those planted about the community in parks and gardens. I only see problems when water persists on leaves in warm weather, and when they are over fed with N. I have a lot more problems with Japanese maple than Tridents.

"I have 35 large to shohin size tridents and battle this constantly. "

Do you also see it in the tridents about the parks and yards of Fresno? If no, then you have to think about what you are doing that would make your trees susceptible to this disease. If yes, then there is not much left to discuss.

Regarding fertilizer, I mix my own from individual components. Nearly all are made by Mr Hong of Kong, (phosphate comes from Israel, go figure??). I have 2 x 1000L tanks with a pump and add basic ingredients to make nutrient solutions, and use these solutions for every watering. Usually, I use one feed for deciduous and another for pines, as pines require more N than deciduous trees. This way I can vary the concentration of any element I want and tailor them to different plants. I also vary fertilizer ratios depending on period of growth. I do not feed maples and cold climate deciduous trees any nitrogen until the second or third set of leaves has developed, while they do get K, P, Mg, Ca, S and traces. I don't recommend this approach for anyone.

Paul
 

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No, but then I don't see 7 inch to 16 inch tall tridents in yards or parks either.
 

Smoke

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I have dozens of tridents on the ground that get watered at 2 AM by my yard sprinklers. Trees on benches don't have this problem.
 
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I have dozens of tridents on the ground that get watered at 2 AM by my yard sprinklers. Trees on benches don't have this problem.
FWIW - some more observations.

I have many Tridents in the ground, NONE of which have a problem - I barely ever need to water them at all (given I live in the European equivalent of the Pacific NW) and they get less fertiliser than the stuff in pots.

Tridents on my benches DO have the problem and until this year I tended to water the entire tree, canopy and all.

I recently spoke to a professional Japanese maple nurseryman (he grows and grafts 1,000 cultivars of J. maples in Boskoop) and he recommended NOT watering the leaves and to use organic fertiliser.
 
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