Trident Maple - Correcting Nebari

[ChristianDGreat]

Hello all,

I was reading Bonsai Tonight Volume 6 and saw this section.
Anyone tried this on trident maples?



I was planning to do this on my trident see red circle below


If feel the bark in those area and cover it with spagnum moss or soil. what are the chances that it will root and let that area catch up?

Thanks
Chris

 

[leatherback]

Especially with Tridents it will help to keep the area in which you want roots to develop moist. I typically plant my tridents deep, so the nebari stays moist. Plant too deep and you get roots on the trunk though (!).

I have done similar, but using a wire, very tightly wound around thick roots that I wanted to remove. Debarking a section will normally result in roots, assuming you create the right growing conditions. Part of the trick for me is also strong pruning of all roots, as the tree goes into root-rebuilding mode.Not sure it is needed, but I do and it works for me.

In general, with tridents you can be quite ruthless..

 

[Potawatomi13]

Consider possible thread grafts.

 

[Yamabudoudanshi]

Bonsaishinshi just did a video demonstrating this very technique on a shishigashira, but presumably just as effective on a trident?

 

[RJG2]

That technique seems to be more for ramifying large roots - but when the spread is pretty uniform. Looks like you have a bare area, and would benefit from some grafts.

Look for some of the @markyscott and @MACH5 posts on root grafts.

Maybe further down the line you could use that technique on the strong roots on either side of the bare spot.

 

[keri-wms]

I’ve done it on a trident before (“tideline” all the way round several root bases at once), worked fine but be quick to shorten the first few new large roots in order to get more from other places as well. Mine initially only issued three!

 

[Gustavo Martins]

Interesting. I could use this technique in one of my tridents which has an over-sized root.

I imagine It may be challenging to remove the bark off the roots on the underside though...

 

[Shibui]

I imagine It may be challenging to remove the bark off the roots on the underside though...

What is challenging? The concept or implementation? When I repot trident maples I bare root. All roots are then accessible so can be cut top and bottom. If you cannot reach the underside of any roots you have left too many roots.

There is no problem cutting trident maple roots really short. It may challenge your belief but the trident maple will just grow new roots from the and of the cut, no matter how short you cut the roots.
If there are no roots where you need some just peel some bark, treat with root hormone and treat it as a partial layer. Root growth and development will be slow due to nearby healthy roots but given time new roots will grow and thicken.

Root grafting is possible but I have found it hit and miss. Often the graft dies but roots emerge from the cut - see above.

 

[Gustavo Martins]

What is challenging? The concept or implementation? When I repot trident maples I bare root. All roots are then accessible so can be cut top and bottom. If you cannot reach the underside of any roots you have left too many roots.

There is no problem cutting trident maple roots really short. It may challenge your belief but the trident maple will just grow new roots from the and of the cut, no matter how short you cut the roots.
If there are no roots where you need some just peel some bark, treat with root hormone and treat it as a partial layer. Root growth and development will be slow due to nearby healthy roots but given time new roots will grow and thicken.

Root grafting is possible but I have found it hit and miss. Often the graft dies but roots emerge from the cut - see above.

Not the concept, the implementation. You know, pealing the bark off carefully all around the roots. I suppose if you bare root it may be easier. And maybe it's easier than I imagine...
Yeah I do cut back hard the roots on tridents (and others). No problems so far.

 

[Shibui]

Not the concept, the implementation. You know, pealing the bark off carefully all around the roots. I suppose if you bare root it may be easier. And maybe it's easier than I imagine...
Yeah I do cut back hard the roots on tridents (and others). No problems so far.

I must admit I rarely peel bark from roots. Much easier to just cut the root at the site were new roots are required. tridents are so good at growing new roots from pruned old roots there is no need for the slow, complicated method.

 

[NaoTK]

I must admit I rarely peel bark from roots. Much easier to just cut the root at the site were new roots are required. tridents are so good at growing new roots from pruned old roots there is no need for the slow, complicated method.

How large of a root have you successfully seen new roots emerge from after completely cutting it? I recently cut a ~2" root off and am regretting it. I can afford some dieback but I would much rather have new roots emerge.

 

[Shibui]

I rarely dig larger trees these days. Most of the trees I grow are root pruned annually so they have lots of smaller roots rather than a few larger ones. I regularly cut roots up to 1" diameter back to 1" long stubs and those quickly produce masses of new roots as long as the cut is under the ground and stays damp. 2" diam should also be fine. Just make sure the cut root is covered and kept damp.
Trident roots rarely die back. New roots emerge from the ring of cambium around the cut.

 

[pandacular]

It may challenge your belief but the trident maple will just grow new roots from the and of the cut, no matter how short you cut the roots.

Old thread, but I’m wondering if this is the case with other maples, and other strong root growing deciduous species in general.

 

[Shibui]

We don't use many maples down here. Trident and Japanese maple seem to be the main species used for bonsai in my area.
I routinely chop JM roots similar to tridents but try to leave a little more root than tridents as JM have a rep for not as hardy. In most cases it works Ok with JM but occasionally I get dieback of a root or branch/trunk above.
I have chopped Chinese elm roots real hard to get more ramification as they tend to start with just a few thick roots.
Younger Chinese quinces typically start out with just a few strong roots growing down. I routinely reduced roots to short stumps to encourage lateral root growth but I've only performed that on younger trees.
Ginkgo, crab apples, plums, Bald cypress and Dawn redwood have also had hard root reduction, especially when younger.
Olives can be chopped to no roots at collecting and survive.