Trident Maple Problem

djm0014

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I am posting some pictures of my tree in hopes that someone will recognize what is happening. I checked the roots today and there is no infestation or any fungus. The roots are light brown to white and appear healthy. It is watered regularly and protected from noontime and early afternoon sunlight with a shading structure. I can't quite figure out what is wrong though. I repotted it in early march but did not trim roots because it was too late in the season. I also fertilized it with some slow release pellets but maybe I used too much?? I don't know. It is showing signs of new leaf growth although sparse at this time. Also, the bark is still green and so are the branches. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Tree: Trident Maple
Location: Central Alabama
Age: <4 Years old
 

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Stan Kengai

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Leaf burn almost always stems from a problem with the roots. Could be caused by 1) roots dried out during transplanting, 2) roots were burned by fertilizer, 3) roots are suffocated from overwatering, 4) soil not draining properly, 5) insects eating the roots, among other things. Here's what I'd do:

1a) If the fertilizer is in your soil, transplant your maple in the early morning removing all of the soil and rinsing the roots thoroughly to get rid of any fertilizer salts. The current pot looks a little large for your tree, consider a shallower or smaller pot. Or . . .
1b) If the fertilizer is on top of the soil, remove the fertilizer and the top layer of soil (1/2"). Put a hose on top of the soil and run water through it for about 15 minutes, 2 separate times. Watch for insects leaving the soil as you wash it. If insect infestation is suspected, go to step 1a. Do not replace the soil you removed.
2) Make a tent around your plant to hold in moisture, and water only when the soil is almost completely dry (test this using a chopstick inserted fully into the soil). Water sparingly trying not to drench the soil, but making it evenly moist. Make sure there is still some air flow around the tree (not fully enclosed), and place the tree in a bright but shaded location, no full sun. Spray with fungicide every 2 weeks (preferably with a few different ones) while inside the tent.
3) When the plant shows signs of strong recovery, remove the tent slowly by opening it a little bit more overy other day. This process should take at least 2 weeks. Do not place into full sun until next spring, as the new leaves will not tolerate it.

Good luck .
 

djm0014

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Ok, I will give those a go. Any suggestions on what to do with the leaves that are still on there now? Some new growth from earlier this spring has browned too. Like leaf stems from a month ago.
 

jk_lewis

Masterpiece
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The leaves aren't going to get better. But while there's green there, they are still photosynthesizing. If, after you've tried these procedures you get new growth, these leaves can be removed.
 

djm0014

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Ok, I've gotten new growth to appear. there are numerous buds all over the tree but they have been there for 2 1/2 to 3 weeks and maybe only one has opened to show a very small leaf. Trunk is still green and the tree gets a little morning sun and is shaded till very late afternoon. Its late enough to where it is not a damaging afternoon sun. So how long will it take them to open up or what can I do to make sure they open up? I know the tree needs leaves in the summer to prepare for winter.
 

FrankP999

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In the kind of heat we are having, 100+ degrees here in Georgia, my tridents just shut down growth. Many other trees take a siesta and will wake up and have another growth phase when temps cool down and fall approaches.
 
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