Trident Maple repot

Fridge

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Hi nuts

My trident maple is due a repot, probably could have done with one last year. I live in the UK and haven’t got round to it yet as I meant to get a new pot for it (it’s currently in a plastic bonsai pot). However I don’t have a car and haven’t had time to get one. I think I will now just repot it back in to its existing pot if I haven’t left it too late…

Ive attached some photos, is it too late to repot it or am I ok to go ahead?

Thanks
Fred
 

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sorce

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I'm sorry but not knowing your last frost date or care capabilities leaves this question impossible to answer.

I would go over Ryan Neil's 3 reasons to Repot without including the selfish design reason to put it in a new pot.

It seems to be happy how it is, so I would utilize that happiness to take that heaviness out of the top.

This is a fine tree, but if the top isn't reduced heavily soon, you'll lose all your taper and the excellently proportioned branches it already has.

Heard tell that repots revitalize a maple.

You don't want that top, cut or not, to grow with that vigour.

Best to leave it constricted as you save what's about to be ruined, which IMO, is in the 9/10 range as far as prior branch work is concerned, way higher priority.....upwards of 20 years of excellent work over some misguided and advised Repot.

Bloody....

Sorce
 

Fridge

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Thanks for the comments all

I know what you mean on the tree becoming top heavy. The two areas in blue on the picture attached are congested. I have been thinking of chopping the original tree at some point to the bottom blue line, and air layering at the top blue line to get another tree

Not thinking of doing this now, but how does the plan sound?
 

Shibui

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First up any time before bud opening or up to leaves half open is no problem for a repot.
Repotting does not usually slow or hurt a tree. Repotting will stimulate more new growth so can work against developing short internodes and good ramification. In this case I don't think the tree is up to there so no problem yet.

Second:
This tree is typical of many that the grower has a good base but then tries to get to finished to quick - long, tall new leader is out of sync with the lower section and overthickened nodes.
Clusters of shoots are common but quickly lead to local thickening. Need to get rid of those well before this stage. If this responds like mine do, just removing those little shoots now will add loads of callus thickening to those nodes. Really need to get rid of those shoots when they first appear in spring. Check regularly inside the leaves through summer to get them early before damage occurs.

I agree with shortening the trunk. I suspect the previous owner did too but couldn't identify a good spot to chop so took the easy way and let someone else decide.
I doubt the blue circle you've added will be a good spot to look for a new leader. That node is already bulging. I can't see which direction that branch to the left is coming/going but I suspect it would be a better bet for a new leader so consider the new chop line I've added here.
trident 3.png
Remember this advice is just from a 2D photo which does not allow for depth, direction, etc. Check with what you can see in reality before following any online advice.

Chops like this are definitely a setback. Allow 5 years or more to regrow a new apex and branching but it is the only real way to develop a good bonsai trident with better scale.

Very nice nebari and good lower branches. Without those positive factors I would do as the last owner did but this does have some long term potential.
 

Fridge

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First up any time before bud opening or up to leaves half open is no problem for a repot.
Repotting does not usually slow or hurt a tree. Repotting will stimulate more new growth so can work against developing short internodes and good ramification. In this case I don't think the tree is up to there so no problem yet.

Second:
This tree is typical of many that the grower has a good base but then tries to get to finished to quick - long, tall new leader is out of sync with the lower section and overthickened nodes.
Clusters of shoots are common but quickly lead to local thickening. Need to get rid of those well before this stage. If this responds like mine do, just removing those little shoots now will add loads of callus thickening to those nodes. Really need to get rid of those shoots when they first appear in spring. Check regularly inside the leaves through summer to get them early before damage occurs.

I agree with shortening the trunk. I suspect the previous owner did too but couldn't identify a good spot to chop so took the easy way and let someone else decide.
I doubt the blue circle you've added will be a good spot to look for a new leader. That node is already bulging. I can't see which direction that branch to the left is coming/going but I suspect it would be a better bet for a new leader so consider the new chop line I've added here.
View attachment 423927
Remember this advice is just from a 2D photo which does not allow for depth, direction, etc. Check with what you can see in reality before following any online advice.

Chops like this are definitely a setback. Allow 5 years or more to regrow a new apex and branching but it is the only real way to develop a good bonsai trident with better scale.

Very nice nebari and good lower branches. Without those positive factors I would do as the last owner did but this does have some long term potential.
Thanks so much for the detailed reply. The tree also has a pretty sever lean to the front as can be seen from the photo below which is also a part of why I want to make a chop lower down to try to correct this

The tree came out of the pot fairly easily so can hopefully get a better idea of whether this needs a repot. I got the tree just over a year ago mainly due to those lower branches and decent nebari so I am pleased you think these are positive features

What action would you take this year? Repot now? I understand the best time to make a big chop is autumn (in about 6 months for me) but if I was to plan this I assume repotting may not be the best idea?

Massively appreciate the advice on this
 

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Shibui

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The roots have only just colonized the soil so it has probably only been in that pot for a year or so and looks like it could probably go several more if necessary.
Tridents, at least down here, are extremely resilient. I routinely do large reduction chops and severe root pruning in one operation, any time from mid winter ( mild winters) through to bud burst and rarely have any problems. Repot and chop 6 months apart would be no problem for a trident. Repot and chop in another month or 2 would be no problem for a trident.
Not sure if autumn chop is best time. I have no problem after chops pretty much all year round but it's certainly easier to see what you are doing when there's no leaves.
 
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