Trident maple with dark black edges

remist17

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I have three young tridents that are leafed out still young leaves. Majority of the leaves have black on the edges. Not spots. Im thinking wind burn? Or frost got it.

I'll post photos tomorrow.
 

remist17

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Here are the photos I took. I really could not get a really good one. Only a few of the leaf edges are black and crunchy. The leaf is still young and tender.

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MACH5

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Yes it looks like frost damage. Keep an eye on it and certainly keep it out of the 30s temp range that we've been getting at night just to be on the safe side.
 

markyscott

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Although it may be frost in your case, I've seen such behavior in tridents to occur throughout the growing season. I've struggled with similar symptoms on some of mine on and off for years and I'm not the only one in my area. Trident leaf curl is also a popular topic on Aus bonsai where you can find numerous threads on the topic. Here are a couple:

http://www.ausbonsai.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=10169&hilit=Leaf+curl+trident
http://www.ausbonsai.com.au/forum/v...9503&p=102092&hilit=Trident+leaf+curl#p102092
http://www.ausbonsai.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=3927&p=43582&hilit=+Trident+leaf+curl#p43582

You can judge the similarity between your symptoms and what they describe yourself, but it looks pretty similar to me. Some of the most active posters on the subject have long since concluded that it's fungal. I'm not saying that is for sure your problem, but you might consider separating it from your other trees just to be safe. Watch for the new growth - if it continues to come out small, withered and with black edges and there has been no frost, you'll know that you are dealing with a different issue. Strong healthy trident growth should be big and green with well formed lobes like those in the attached picture (these leaves are nearly 4 inches long). If the new foliage continues to look unhealthy, the best treatment I've found is to put it in the ground in the full sun and away from your other trees and let it grow freely for a few years - I've seen some of them "grow out of it". Because if you do decide it's fungal, it's best to just replace the tree on your bench and let nature take care of the tree in the ground - way better than spending years spraying with dangerous chemicals.

Let us know how it goes, I'd be curious to know if you see any improvement in late spring or if the tree continues to struggle. I'd also be curious to know if any of our experienced trident growers here have seen anything similar.

Scott
 

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jkd2572

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Mine did the same thing. No frost. Sprayed with fungicide and it cured it. This has happened multiple years in a row. Going to start spraying fungicide early every year.
 

Beng

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Mine did the same thing. No frost. Sprayed with fungicide and it cured it. This has happened multiple years in a row. Going to start spraying fungicide early every year.

What fungicide did you use? I spray regularly on rotation and one of my tridents had this during its first flush this spring, it had the same thing last spring but it grew out of it as I'm sure it will this year. It has to be a root fungus for it to return yearly to only one of my many tridents. Weirdly enough this same tree I have that gets it each year is repotted each year in fresh soil and has amazing roots each time. Whatever it is it doesn't effect the health of the tree in a detrimental way for very long and should be gone by the summer. It also doesn't seem to spread from one trident to another.
 

markyscott

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What fungicide did you use? I spray regularly on rotation and one of my tridents had this during its first flush this spring, it had the same thing last spring but it grew out of it as I'm sure it will this year. It has to be a root fungus for it to return yearly to only one of my many tridents. Weirdly enough this same tree I have that gets it each year is repotted each year in fresh soil and has amazing roots each time. Whatever it is it doesn't effect the health of the tree in a detrimental way for very long and should be gone by the summer. It also doesn't seem to spread from one trident to another.

The Aussies like Bravo - a fungicide containing chlorothalonil as it's active ingredient. That ingredient can be found in several brand names here in the US - Daconil and fungonil to name two. They also recommend mancozeb. I've tried bravo and Daconil and it seemed to moderate the progress somewhat. I've lost 2-3 tridents with these symptoms before I sprayed with these products. I've lost none since, but the survivors were not the picture of health. But they all improved in the ground with or without spraying. Other tridents on the same bench, in the same soil are doing just fine. Go figure. Anyway, if you do choose to spray, use these chemicals with care - they are not benign substances and some contain known carcinogens.

Scott
 

Beng

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The Aussies like Bravo - a fungicide containing chlorothalonil as it's active ingredient. That ingredient can be found in several brand names here in the US - Daconil and fungonil to name two. They also recommend mancozeb. I've tried bravo and Daconil and it seemed to moderate the progress somewhat. I've lost 2-3 tridents with these symptoms before I sprayed with these products. I've lost none since, but the survivors were not the picture of health. But they all improved in the ground with or without spraying. Other tridents on the same bench, in the same soil are doing just fine. Go figure. Anyway, if you do choose to spray, use these chemicals with care - they are not benign substances and some contain known carcinogens.

Scott

I think Scotta right my previous comment wrong the browns not going away on one of my tridents this year so ill be spraying with mancozeb.
 

markyscott

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I think Scotta right my previous comment wrong the browns not going away on one of my tridents this year so ill be spraying with mancozeb.

Bummer , but good luck Beng. Be careful with those chemicals and let us know how the mancozeb works for you.

Scott
 
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Beng

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Never had a problem with mancozeb before. Although this will be my first time using it on a trident. I use it on crabapples, cherries, junipers, and pines when they don't respond to daconil. It's not labeled specifically for maples but it has a dilution for ornamentals of 3 tsp per gallon so i'll use that. As far as fungicides go it's good stuff. It still hasn't spread to any other tridents in the area. Still seems like a root problem to me although when I repotted it as usual this spring the roots were incredibly healthy.
 
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Evan

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New to the forum, first reply! I have the same problem with a couple of crabapples and some tridents as well. Ordered some GARDEN SENTINEL BIOFUNGICIDE from Gardens Alive! I also got some of the Daconil product at the Depot today. I plan on alternating the usage and hope to get rid of this plague!
 

Stickroot

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I have the same frost damage and it is not the first time. It didn't happen too bad this year, yet
I am out of town and all my trees are out with chances of frost.
My irrigation starts at 4:45 am, I have been told that this can help save leaves from damage from nightly lows.
 

Saizan

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I have the same problem with one of my tridents, and symptoms are plausible with fungal infection. In my zone is very common (and harmful) Verticillium fungus, that makes that new leaves born with claw shape and brown borders.

Since I live in a place with no frost winters, I cannot tell you if frosting causes the same symptoms. I hope so, since Verticillium is a hard bitch to kill.
 

sorce

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first reply!

Welcome to Crazy....

If Mike Hagedorn and Matt Reel had a baby.....

You look like them combined!

Are you really good at bonsai!?

Sorce
 

markyscott

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In the intervening years since this thread first circulated, I've seen a lot of improvement in my trees. I haven't seen this symptom in any of my tridents for three growing seasons now. Growth has been strong and healthy - even in the trees that had these symptoms before. But I don't think it was the Bravo, Mancozeb, or any of the other fungal sprays I used. This year, I haven't sprayed fungicide on my tridents at all.

What I think has helped a lot is to adopt a dormant spraying regimen. I've done this every year for the past four years - two spray applications while the tree is dormant. I spray dormant oil early in winter as soon as the trees are fully dormant. This is for bugs. Then in the late season I spray with lime sulfur for fungus. Timing of the lime sulfur application is critical:
  • It should be done over four weeks after spraying the dormant oil
  • It should be sprayed as the buds are swelling, but before they have opened
This last point is important, because if they've opened, the fungus will have become active and entered the living tissue - at that point, fungal infections become difficult, if not impossible, to control.

Watch this video:

Follow the instructions to the letter. You'll reduce your reliance on spraying with strong chemicals during the growing season and have healthier trees to boot.

Sort of curious how the trees the OP posted about are doing.
 

Evan

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Great stuff folks! Love the comments! I'm super scared more or less terrified about this! I know I've lost trees due to this unknown badness. Went out today and had a good look. My prize trident is suffering way more than expected. I'm freaked!!! Gonna remove the bad leaves, then spray with the Daconil. Also going to watch the video from above and follow the regimen next season. Thanks so much for you guys caring enough to respond to this old post revived. I've wanted to now what to do for some time. Have done lots of dormant as well as during seasonal spraying both lime sulfur and copper fungy.

One of my future postings will be of the current set up. I just moved into my new structure in the yard for the trees 2 days ago! I'm over the top excited about it and proud of course. I did notice only a tiny bit of new happiness in the change in environment.

I'll keep everyone updated as to the progress on the leaf issue, I'm sure someone else will benefit from my efforts and your comments too!

P.S. my pic makes me look a bit more roundy than in real life. As for being real good, (combo of Michael and Matt), well….. been play'n with trees for 26 years and I'd say I've just scratched the surface!
 

americanelmer

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I have used this product - http://www.questproducts.us/reliantLabel.htm - to successfully fight Verticillium Wilt in my Acer Rubrum and Acer Palmatum (alas I discovered this stuff to late to save my Acer Japonicum and about 8 other maples). In addition it has a very beneficial effect on all other trees and plants. I mix 3 oz of it/ 60z of Iron-soil acidifier/ 8-10 drops of Pentra_Bark(same company)/3 Tbls 30-10-10 MiracleGro to 3 Gals of water in a pump sprayer and spray all my trees and orchids with it every week of the year here in West Central Florida.

My maples were dying before I found the Reliant, which is not truly a fungicide but a plant stimulant that enables the plants own immune system to fight off the fungus.

The active ingredient is Phosphite (not Phosphate). You can see the leaves on your deciduous trees perk up and become more rigid within an hour of application of this cocktail. I have been using this product for about 3-1/2 years with spectacular results. I would reccomend this product to any one who grows trees (and orchids) whether in pots or in the ground.

Hope this helps.
 
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