True statement for Scots pine in the UK?

Driver170

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Scot's pine appreciates regular feeding but only very lightly. Also it is important to provide a little feed about once a month throughout the winter during warmer spells of weather. The tree will appreciate being allowed to dry out just a little between watering or the foliage colour will begin to fade to a sickly yellow/green.

From a collection we purchased recently. This pine has obviously been in bonsai training for many years. The tree is very healthy and strong but regular candle pinching has reduced the back budding over years. Scots pines in the UK should be grown untouched until August when new growth is pruned back to balance the vigour. Doing this increases the vigour and will dramatically increase the back budding, which is now beginning to happen. A beautiful trunk with craggy bark and a good nebari.
 

Driver170

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Does this last statement mean, don’t pinch candles while its in development if you don’t have back budding. You only pinch candles to transition that energy back to medium and weak shoots
 

BobbyLane

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if confused about what kaizen wrote, you should email or phone up G Potter and ask him. he knows his onions more than most and especially re material that he sells.
 

sorce

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I put a mugo/Scots backbudding theory bomb on the mugo train.
It can be helpful.

You don't need buds behind, but leave 1-2mm of this year's growth on the branch.

This will get you buds popping from right before the cut, to about a thumb length back.

My theory says if you leave that growth on till spring, and cut it back harder then, you are more likely to get buds further interior. In places w/o needles.

Long as you have needles generally you are ok.
Healthy needles!

Sorce
 

M. Frary

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I water mine every day. Nice and green.
Only lightly fertilize trees in refinement to prevent long needles.
 

Driver170

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He said

In the UK with our crap weather and little sun candle pinching will weaken a tree in the long term. Prune in August, not spring.
 

Vance Wood

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Does this last statement mean, don’t pinch candles while its in development if you don’t have back budding. You only pinch candles to transition that energy back to medium and weak shoots
Here we go again; There is an uncertainty as to what is mean by pinching in your world. I don't mean to be offensive but this is the truth. I don't pinch candles at all I cut them. Having gone this far you can only do this two seasons in a row before you are forced to let the tree grow unchecked for a year. If you treat the tree like this every year you will weaken the tree.
 

Vance Wood

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Its all too confusing
Not trying to put you on the spot, but if you could describe what you mean by pinching and how you do it and if you use instruments or not would be very helpful in putting us on the same page where we are comparing apples with apples and not oranges.
 

Driver170

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I’m just learning the theory sorry.

I mean, you just come in and pinch the candle (single flush pine) but of course thinking about the aesthetics side also when applying the horticultural practise
 

LanceMac10

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@Driver170 the "pinching" of Pine candles refers to a stage early in the growth-cycle when some "candles" grow more rapidly than others. "Pinching" the candle at this time means you just remove a bit of the overly long candle so it doesn't continue to draw an overabundance of energy. The thought being that then the energy being drawn by an over-aggressive candle would be distributed a little more evenly.:)
 

LanceMac10

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I’m just learning the theory sorry.

I mean, you just come in and pinch the candle (single flush pine) but of course thinking about the aesthetics side also when applying the horticultural practise



Now your confusing yourself. I believe Scots can be treated as a "two-flush" Pine.
 

Dav4

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@Driver170 the "pinching" of Pine candles refers to a stage early in the growth-cycle when some "candles" grow more rapidly than others. "Pinching" the candle at this time means you just remove a bit of the overly long candle so it doesn't continue to draw an overabundance of energy. The thought being that then the energy being drawn by an over-aggressive candle would be distributed a little more evenly.:)
I agree and would also call this "breaking the candle".
 

Vance Wood

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I’m just learning the theory sorry.

I mean, you just come in and pinch the candle (single flush pine) but of course thinking about the aesthetics side also when applying the horticultural practise
This still does not describe what you do. Do you use the word pinch as a generic term for the following: Breaking off the candle in half, thirds, quarters by snapping them off, or Using the nails of the thumb and an apposing finger and pinch off the candle at one/half, one third or one quarter or all together? Or do you use scissors, tweezers, or a stick? When do you do this? So I think you can see what you and us are faced with.

Most people are confused about what is meant by pinching until you talk about Junipers where you better not use that work anywhere near a Juniper or one who thinks they know how this is done.
 

Paradox

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Could you explain, vaguely, your process?:)

Scots pines are not 2 flush pines.
JPB ARE 2 flush pines.

Scots pines are not treated the same way as JBP.

I treat scots pines the same way I treat mugo. Please refer to Vance's discussions regarding how to treat mugo pines. I'd rather not repeat that info here to avoid confusion and potential arguements.
 

LanceMac10

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Scots pines are not 2 flush pines.
JPB ARE 2 flush pines.

Scots pines are not treated the same way as JBP.

I treat scots pines the same way I treat mugo. Please refer to Vance's discussions regarding how to treat mugo pines. I'd rather not repeat that info here to avoid confusion and potential arguements.




Have you tried it on lesser stock? Or is this something that you were instructed? No offense meant, just curious.:):):):)
 

Paradox

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The tree is very healthy and strong but regular candle pinching has reduced the back budding over years. Scots pines in the UK should be grown untouched until August when new growth is pruned back to balance the vigour. Doing this increases the vigour and will dramatically increase the back budding, which is now beginning to happen.

I interpret this as allowing this year's candles needles to expand and harden off, then cut back on that candle leaving some of this year's needles there. The number of pairs of needles left depends on the strength of the area of the tree.

This is not complete removal of the entire spring candle like we do with JBP.
 

Paradox

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Have you tried it on lesser stock? Or is this something that you were instructed? No offense meant, just curious.:):):):)

No I have not. 2 of my scots pines are 25+ years old with 3 inch trunks. I'm not going to risk them for an experiment.
 
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