Trunk Chop 101?

I tried this technique and realized without it being screwed on just pushes upward rather than outward.
That is my experience also, unless you rigorously remove any down growing roots and any that may be folded under the splayed roots. And if you've root pruned that well there's really no need for the tile.

But a tile seems most ideal and more firm if thick enough to not break. Or is tile just the general term for flat surface under the trunk to get this result?
The original article I read said 'plate' Others mention 'tile' The original articles came from Japan so were originally written in Japanese. I suspect the words we got in the English translation were just the closest English words the translator knew, not necessarily what the original author said or meant.
 
That is my experience also, unless you rigorously remove any down growing roots and any that may be folded under the splayed roots. And if you've root pruned that well there's really no need for the tile.


The original article I read said 'plate' Others mention 'tile' The original articles came from Japan so were originally written in Japanese. I suspect the words we got in the English translation were just the closest English words the translator knew, not necessarily what the original author said or meant.
When I referred to the roots being pushed up. I meant it seems if the tree base was fastened to the tile, the roots would start to grow more like an oval and flattened underneath where the base/bottom meets the tile. Hence thickening nebari quicker. A slow process of upsetting. The roots have no where to thicken downwards so they widen.
 
How far above the new lead do you cut? I have a cottonwood I think is ready to cut again, this time back to the new lead... but I hear that they're sensitive to large cuts, and are prone to die back.
 
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