Trunk chop tool

[Dirty Nails]

I am getting to the point where I have some trunks to chop 5+". I did a few this spring and I must confess Cutting through a live maple tree is way harder than I thought.

I tried the folding saw with Japanese writing that came with my initial (cheap) tools - it binds and twists and is not sharp - junk

I tried a traditional folding pruning saw but the teeth are too large and the cut is not fine enough

I tried a reciprocating saw with a new blade and it cut OK but shook the tree wildly. I mean if this tree had teeth they would have all been loose. Luckily it has budded out and seems ok.

These were in the ground so I can imagine how much more challenging it is making a chop on a potted tree.

So...what do you use to make a smooth and precise cut?

 

[Poink88]

This is what I use.
http://www.amazon.com/Corona-RS-726...7LRO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1401828781&sr=8-1

Looking to purchase this also.
http://www.amazon.com/Corona-RS-739...IQFC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1401828781&sr=8-3

I do not think you need precise cut for this size...just carve it later. JMHO

 

[Dav4]

I'd go with the folding pruning saw and clean the cut edges up with a sharp knife after.

 

[Poink88]

I'd go with the folding pruning saw and clean the cut edges up with a sharp knife after.

While I agree...I am afraid the result will be a ho-hum flat face if you do this. Even if it heals...it will stick out like sore thumb IMHO (remember this is 5"+ trunk). I prefer to give it some movement and hopefully blend even if bark rolls over. Either that or really make it stand out and make a deadwood feature out of it.

I tend to use my concave cutter and knob cutter to do my initial "carving". It is not jarring and gives the tree a so-so but better than flat face treatment. Once they are more established, I will be carving the heck out of them.

 

[Dav4]

I use the saw for the chop, done horizontally across the trunk. I'm not too concerned how the wound looks at this point. After the tree has recovered, I'll more often then not use hand tools like you to refine the wound in preparation to get it to heal/callus over.

 

[yenling83]

I have this and like it, it will still be some work but will get the job done.

http://www.japanwoodworker.com/Product/155687/240MM-Pruning-Saw-with-Scabbard.aspx

Another option

http://www.japanwoodworker.com/Product/155688/330mm-Tree-Saw---Gyokucho.aspx

 

[M. Frary]

I use a hand pruning saw sometimes that is used for trimming/pruning trees. It is 1 piece construction so it doesn't fold but it has a leather sheath to protect you and the blade. I get them at our local chain saw store and it's made by a company called Fanno Saw Works.
And sometimes I use a chain saw if it's nearby. That's only for trees that are in the ground not in pots.

 

[bwaynef]

http://www.silkysaws.com/Silky_Saws...210mm-MED-Teeth-Hand-Saw#sthash.INwJZZfg.dpbs

 

[fore]

http://www.silkysaws.com/Silky_Saws...210mm-MED-Teeth-Hand-Saw#sthash.INwJZZfg.dpbs

plus one. works great for a foldable.

 

[Poink88]

Just FYI.

Most pruning saw in the market have straight cutting blade...the Corona I linked above is curved and it is it's best feature IMHO. Due to its funky handle and blade shape...it bites on it's own as you pull w/o pushing the blade down. May sound nothing but when you are cutting a lot and tired that helps a lot.

It is a well designed and very functional saw.

The blade is also wickedly sharp (be careful) and easy to maintain too. I use a dremel w/ diamond bit and can bring dull blade back to factory sharpness in seconds. It only gets dull because I use it to cut roots also...sand can dull a blade fast.

For reference...my old Corona folding saw cut through a 4.5" pyracantha in less than 15 strokes. Imagine that.

 

[GrimLore]

I use this for even for large cuts on Yew. Cuts clean and fast and this place has a hella good price on it http://www.toolbarn.com/stanley-20-526.html?gclid=CM7ViMy04L4CFZBxOgodAFYAyg. I also use it for large root reductions at collection and it never lets me down.

Grimmy

 

[mcpesq817]

This is what I use.
http://www.amazon.com/Corona-RS-726...7LRO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1401828781&sr=8-1

Looking to purchase this also.
http://www.amazon.com/Corona-RS-739...IQFC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1401828781&sr=8-3

I do not think you need precise cut for this size...just carve it later. JMHO

I have the first one and would really recommend it as well.

 

[lordy]

I chop when I repot. That way the roots are not shaken senseless (not like me, who is centsless). You also get to hold the trunk in a horizontal orientation and can use a hand saw or reciprocating saw the way they were designed to be used: basically to make a vertical cut. And if you are using a reciprocating saw, you can put some masking tape on the stabilizer foot which should be held against the trunk (if there is room). This will protect the bark from the foot, and enable you to make a cleaner, faster cut.

 

[nathanbs]

For anything over 1" I strongly suggest sawzall or any other reciprocating saw. The vibrating is caused by letting the saw take the tree. You need to hold the tree or branch firmly and make sure the base of the saw is firmly against the branch or trunk and it will then cut like a hot knife through butter. Annually I prune 300 field grown trees that all have limbs greater than 1". I do 150 in about 8-10 hours. This would not only be impossible to do in this time frame but I wouldn't be physically capable of sawing through that many branches. I would be dead within the first 10 trees.

 

[edprocoat]

http://www.silkysaws.com/Silky_Saws...210mm-MED-Teeth-Hand-Saw#sthash.INwJZZfg.dpbs

I use a Silky saw called the Pocket Boy. They cut easily and make a smooth cut, the best part is the saw teeth do not load with the wet wood you cut into when pruning like a regular saw blade will.

ed