Trunk Chopping 101

Smoke

Ignore-Amus
Messages
11,668
Reaction score
20,726
Location
Fresno, CA
USDA Zone
9
For this article I will talk about chopping the trunk of an acer species. This will work for a good number of other species but some extra horticultural techniques should be used on hard to chop species.

For a maple, there are two schools of thought on how the tree should be styled. One form is the spreading oak type tree or modified broom, and the other is the largely tapered informal upright type trunk which I consider classical Japanese Style Moyogi.

Both tree are treated totally different in the way they are chopped and the aftercare. The future shape of the tree too uses a totally different set of guidelines to build a proper canopy on the tree.

The basic chop usually produces a massivly tapered moyogi type form, because the aftercare in books teaches us to create taper thru progressive chops which makes a back and forth type tapered trunk that leaves us nothing left but to put a green triangle helmet on it and call it good. A really good triangle green helmet is OK for a couple trees on your bench, but who wants thirty maples all styled the same way?

So for variety, it seems that some of the trees in ones collection will have to be trained for that more broom canopy. That is very difficult for many since they have no idea how to grow branches or how to even start. While I can tell you within the confines of this page about the two trunk types and the pratfalls that come with each, it will be up to you guys on how you produce the kind of material you wish from the stock you bought.

I can tell you this from experience, the massive taper Japanese style trunk is much easier to build for the beginner. The spreading oak style is much more difficult and requires twice as much time. The tapering trunk can have branches built while the trunk is growing, while the oak style will have to have a full canopy of primary branches before any secondary branching can be built. Secondary branches cannot be built until the successive chops on primaries are done or they will be removed as the primaries are conditioned.

So the first thing one must look at is the trunk they bought. What can be done with it, does it have buds lower on the trunk? Low buds are good no matter what, Moyogi or oak style. Keep all those you can. Let them grow but keep them in check. Keep internodes short.

SPREADING OAK STYLE
For the spreading oak style tree make sure the chop is straight across the trunk. Most of the primaries should emerge from the trunk in the same general area. Only choose the best three buds from which to grow the tree from. Do this in the fall after they have grown all year. Make sure to introduce some movement in them with wire. In the spring when the buds break, cut back the branch after 4 pair of leaves to one pair. At this point let it grow all year adding the wire after a few weeks growth. Don't worry so much about the whole branch with wire just the first 4 inches of branch. Next year it will be cut back for taper and wire is just a waste of time. All were interested in is guiding the branch into the correct direction. This part of the process can take as much as four years or more depending on growing season to accomplish.

After the primaries are set, its just a matter of secondaries, done in the exact same way, and then tertiaries built on top of the canopy.

CLASSICAL JAPANESE TAPERING MOYOGI

In this style it is much the same except it works better if the base of the tree has some movement already. The trunk emerging from the soil is pretty important for this form to look good. The trunk is chopped straight across. There is a time in which it can be cut at an angle to save time in developing the taper and that is when there is a good low bud or small branch to chop to. Taking advantage of that branch will save a season.

The reason we cut straight is because buds do not always develop at the high point of the chop and may bud lower which means that at some point you have to re cut the trunk to improve taper which just sets the trees development back and makes a larger scar.
As buds pop on the lower trunk due to chopping, good ones can be trained to become branches at this point saving lots of time.

Here are examples of each, and you can make up your mind which you wish to do....
 

Attachments

  • DSC_00560037.jpg
    DSC_00560037.jpg
    182.9 KB · Views: 740
  • DSC_00430024.JPG
    DSC_00430024.JPG
    77.3 KB · Views: 800
Last edited:

Smoke

Ignore-Amus
Messages
11,668
Reaction score
20,726
Location
Fresno, CA
USDA Zone
9
Here is something in the middle which uses a more singular trunk that has a lot of taper, but utilizes branches along its length like a moyogi tree. Really a graceful image for a maple.


These maples are from that forty acre quarentine area at House of Bonsai that doesn't exist.
 

Attachments

  • DSC_00141.JPG
    DSC_00141.JPG
    66.8 KB · Views: 852
  • DSC_00161.JPG
    DSC_00161.JPG
    83.3 KB · Views: 799
  • DSC_00231.JPG
    DSC_00231.JPG
    65.1 KB · Views: 727

cmeg1

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
5,354
Reaction score
8,267
Location
Southeast Pennsylvania USA
USDA Zone
7a
Very cool.Very informative.Thanks for posting.It sums it up a bit for me as I was considering informal upright for some Coreana's I have in the ground.Something tells me this species is the kind which may need special horticultural technique as you mentioned.But hey,I bought them and they are in the ground.
Here is a pic from last season.They are on tile in ground and are bursting the buds now.I am not going to touch them this season.
They started last season in colanders and then went in the ground.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    205.4 KB · Views: 562
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    202.7 KB · Views: 504
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    194.2 KB · Views: 577
Last edited:

davetree

Omono
Messages
1,556
Reaction score
848
Location
St. Paul Minnesota
USDA Zone
4
Here is something in the middle which uses a more singular trunk that has a lot of taper, but utilizes branches along its length like a moyogi tree. Really a graceful image for a maple.


These maples are from that forty acre quarentine area at House of Bonsai that doesn't exist.

The maples in the second pic are exquisite.
 

jkd2572

Masterpiece
Messages
2,065
Reaction score
73
Location
Plano, Texas
USDA Zone
7
Here is something in the middle which uses a more singular trunk that has a lot of taper, but utilizes branches along its length like a moyogi tree. Really a graceful image for a maple.


These maples are from that forty acre quarentine area at House of Bonsai that doesn't exist.

Thanks for the info, but I want to know more about the forty acres. I did not know house of bonsai was a big nursery. I thought they just had a few trees on eBay. Every section of their website has 4 trees on it. I find it amazing how people don't want to sell trees online. Interesting. The more you think you know the more you find out you don't......
 
Last edited:

Smoke

Ignore-Amus
Messages
11,668
Reaction score
20,726
Location
Fresno, CA
USDA Zone
9
Thanks for the info, but I want to know more about the forty acres. I did not know house of bonsai was a big nursery. I thought they just had a few trees on eBay. Every section of their website has 4 trees on it. I find it amazing how people don't want to sell trees online. Interesting. The more you think you know the more you find out you don't......

Largest nursery in California. Maybe we need some pictures...yes?
 

Smoke

Ignore-Amus
Messages
11,668
Reaction score
20,726
Location
Fresno, CA
USDA Zone
9
Head um off at the pass I always say....

Largest "bonsai" nursery in California.
 

Smoke

Ignore-Amus
Messages
11,668
Reaction score
20,726
Location
Fresno, CA
USDA Zone
9
Thanks for the info, but I want to know more about the forty acres. I did not know house of bonsai was a big nursery. I thought they just had a few trees on eBay. Every section of their website has 4 trees on it. I find it amazing how people don't want to sell trees online. Interesting. The more you think you know the more you find out you don't......

Most people don't have a clue about Muranaka nursery either based on what he has for sale on ebay. Between the two nurseries probably about ten acres.
 

jkd2572

Masterpiece
Messages
2,065
Reaction score
73
Location
Plano, Texas
USDA Zone
7
Thankfully I know George muranka. Wish I could afford to ship his landscape trees here. I follow his blog posts.
 
Last edited:

Smoke

Ignore-Amus
Messages
11,668
Reaction score
20,726
Location
Fresno, CA
USDA Zone
9
Thankfully I know George muranka. Wish I could afford to ship his landscape trees here. I follow his blog posts.
'Have you been to the nursery?
 

JudyB

Queen of the Nuts
Messages
13,783
Reaction score
23,330
Location
South East of Cols. OH
USDA Zone
6a
Thanks for taking the time to post this, it's easy to tell someone to chop a trunk, but what then? This gives needed direction, and also options for someone who has not done it. Thanks Smoke.
And I want that tree on the right.
 

barrosinc

Masterpiece
Messages
4,127
Reaction score
4,691
Location
Santiago, Chile
USDA Zone
9b
I just read a chapter of exactly this on peter adams bonsai of japanese maples.
I will try to find some pics sooner today. I still have some questions I would love to post later, as I chopped my young AP to try to follow this route but I think I made a mistake... nothing too bad. But as a noob I would like to clear up.

I would love to see a 5 year progression on chopping and wiring using this method. (The book only has drawings).
 

tmpgh

Shohin
Messages
291
Reaction score
5
Location
Pennsylvania
USDA Zone
6b
Thanks Smoke. As a newer face in the bonsai crowd, this is the kind of technical information I need the most. I have a stump or two that I plan to exercise a few of these techniques on starting this season.
 

Nybonsai12

Masterpiece
Messages
3,818
Reaction score
7,622
Location
NY
USDA Zone
7a
Most people don't have a clue about Muranaka nursery either based on what he has for sale on ebay. Between the two nurseries probably about ten acres.

Do you know if he ship to buyers who personally call and say what they are looking for?
 

barrosinc

Masterpiece
Messages
4,127
Reaction score
4,691
Location
Santiago, Chile
USDA Zone
9b
is this doable to a tree like this without airlayering?


5D3_3849.JPG
 

Vin

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
5,257
Reaction score
7,645
Location
Panama City, FL Zone 9a/8b Centr
USDA Zone
8b
Smoke, thanks for the information. I have a crape I'd like to develop with a massive taper. Do think the same process will work?
 

Eric Group

Masterpiece
Messages
4,554
Reaction score
4,855
Location
Columbia, SC
Smoke, thanks for the information. I have a crape I'd like to develop with a massive taper. Do think the same process will work?

Crape Myrtle? It should... Sorry, I am not Smoke but I have over a decade of experience working with them and I have chopped them like this. Did two about 5/6 years ago. One going for the informal broom style, another going for more of the informal upright. Didn't like the informal broom one, and took the flat chop down to an angled chop earlier this month- looks like the tree will develop much better now!

A few differences between them and Maples- alternating leaves instead of side by side leaves. This changes how you develop ramification. Not saying it is better or worse than Maples, just different. Have to be more aware of leaving multiple viable nodes on each branch to get ramification, other wise you just get a wiggly branch with no side shoots! On Maples, you can cut back to own node, it produces two shoots, cut them back to one node, you get four... Crape Myrtle requires a bit more planning an luck. Different, exfoliating bark that is perhaps not as willing to heal over. Needs a bit more encouragement in my experience. Scratch the edges of the wounds a bit every couple years on the big scars, or the tree just gets lazy in healing them over... Of course I did most my big chops on them years ago before I used cut paste, so perhaps that would hasten the healing a bit.
 

Nybonsai12

Masterpiece
Messages
3,818
Reaction score
7,622
Location
NY
USDA Zone
7a
Smoke,
Maybe I'm not looking in the right places but I feel like I have rarely seen the spreading oak style Acer. Am I wrong that these are not common at all? And if so, is this just because of the fact the moyogi is easier to develop? Is the spreading oak style less desireable in some way?

and thank you for your blog and posts. You provide a wealth of information to us all.
 

small trees

Chumono
Messages
570
Reaction score
240
USDA Zone
8B
Smoke,
Maybe I'm not looking in the right places but I feel like I have rarely seen the spreading oak style Acer. Am I wrong that these are not common at all? And if so, is this just because of the fact the moyogi is easier to develop? Is the spreading oak style less desireable in some way?

and thank you for your blog and posts. You provide a wealth of information to us all.


I believe it's like he said; the moyogi is easier to do. Desirability will vary from person to person, but an oak style takes a lot more know-how to do properly. My guess is that they are harder to do well, but when they are done well they are amazing.
 

Nybonsai12

Masterpiece
Messages
3,818
Reaction score
7,622
Location
NY
USDA Zone
7a
I believe it's like he said; the moyogi is easier to do. Desirability will vary from person to person, but an oak style takes a lot more know-how to do properly. My guess is that they are harder to do well, but when they are done well they are amazing.

Got any pics of acers in the oak style? I would love to see them. based on what Smoke and you have said about it being harder to do I can understand why there are less examples(or at least it seems that way to me).

I also think when I see a maple and since they are trees that can be built, the first thought is to get movement into the trunk, not just shoot up straight and spread because I wouldn't expect that to create the best tree, or even be the norm. But the best tree is in the eye of the viewer and again this is from my own limited experience and knowledge.
 
Top Bottom