Trying to decide on my how to do my free stands.
- Thread starter Trenthany
- Start date
Trenthany
Chumono
Just got this 48’ x 12’ area rocked in by myself! Seems like a good start! Gotta trim trees add shade cloth for variations in light and run water and electric.
Pitoon
Imperial Masterpiece
I would build a greenhouse in the spot.
Trenthany
Chumono
That’s going in a different spot! I’m in FL. I rarely will have to bring trees inside thankfully.
Paradox
Imperial Masterpiece
The third makes the most sense because its more stable, however stacking blocks directly on each other isnt very stable and more prone to falling over.
Stacking them as you have them pictured isnt very stable either. Cement blocks are cheap so build a better structure for the safety of your trees.
I would try to design a stack that staggers the blocks to make it more stable, even if it means doubling width using 2 rows of blocks to stagger them in a cube to build height.
Stacking them as you have them pictured isnt very stable either. Cement blocks are cheap so build a better structure for the safety of your trees.
I would try to design a stack that staggers the blocks to make it more stable, even if it means doubling width using 2 rows of blocks to stagger them in a cube to build height.
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Pitoon
Imperial Masterpiece
It's not to protect from the cold, but from the storms. I doubt you will leave your trees outside if any tropical storms or hurricanes pass your way.
Trenthany
Chumono
This all true, I’ve done block work before but I was thinking this is a low stress application. That’s why I even considered the first two, I was thinking toespace like cabinets lol. But judging by your reaction maybe I am wrong? I was going to mortar them once I settled on the design, I thought that would be plenty.
This is just free cycle stuff right now and am my basing design of off some ideas I saw online for benches and planters. With a 16 foot bench and 8 blocks per section, doubling the columns to tie them together crosswise I would have to almost double my block count. $50 for more blocks is at least one new tree!
How does putting a post inside the lower blocks sound as a solution? It would take away some of my lower shelf options but would add stability. I also have this idea but I don’t like it as much as it also at least doubles my block count but it will be rock solid stable.
If blocks are mortared or glued and set on flat surface (not on top of the rock, that was to layout ideas is all) i thought it should be pretty stable. What if I added another block to the third pic above so the bottom row would have a 90° out one side in front and another in back? Plus posts somewhere to prevent tipping even if hit fairly hard.
Next thought will require moms input, because the house I’m fixing up will be her retirement house. But what about pouring a footer and mortaring to it and/or filling the bottom row with cement to tie it all in? I think I’ve got some quickcrete in the shed. Maybe footer, one extra block so bottom row has two rotated to widen stance, posts and concrete inside the bottom row! Lol It’s more labor but it’s free! That seems a bit overkill, I’ll just try and get mom to look at it, she’s an architect. Long term it will be hers and I’ll build mine at my new house when I’m done with this one.
Hell maybe I should just do a big 3 shape kind of like you are it looks like. cost goes way the hell up but a very straightforward design.
Paradox
Imperial Masterpiece
You dont need to morter them in
LOL this is hard to describe with just words.
Give me a few min and Ill try to draw out what Im thinking of that will accomplish what youre after
LOL this is hard to describe with just words.
Give me a few min and Ill try to draw out what Im thinking of that will accomplish what youre after
Paradox
Imperial Masterpiece
@Trenthany something like this:
The squares are the end of blocks turned 90 degrees so they can be straggered.
The bottom layer has another row of blocks behind it so its 4 blocks on that layer as does the 3rd row etc.
I drew it 4 high before your first shelf, but you can do 3 high like in your picture no 3 if you prefer it lower.
The squares are the end of blocks turned 90 degrees so they can be straggered.
The bottom layer has another row of blocks behind it so its 4 blocks on that layer as does the 3rd row etc.
I drew it 4 high before your first shelf, but you can do 3 high like in your picture no 3 if you prefer it lower.
Paradox
Imperial Masterpiece
Now that I think about it more, You could also put the blocks on the first layers in thier proper orientation (like I have my coldframe) for more strength for those layers instead of on their sides.
Then flip them on their side if you are using the 4x4 for shelf bracing
Then flip them on their side if you are using the 4x4 for shelf bracing
Trenthany
Chumono
Ok so widen the base and one wall is ok, or is that whole support you drew doubled? Staggered is pretty standard. I had thought and thought about forcing a staggered pattern but figured mortared and not bearing much of a load it would be ok. I guess I’ll go buy me some blocks either way, just gotta figure out how many now. Lol
I figured that and that you were just using that to show that it was a full block and orientation. Rotating it would give more strength and I probably will put as many blocks right side up as I can.
Paradox
Imperial Masterpiece
Its double for all layers because you have to turn the blocks on every other layer so its staggered.
Look at the second layer, the two on each end is a regular block turned 90 degrees so it has to have a block on the layer below it to support it
This is honestly more for stablity than strength
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
I think the first one will be what you find most useful.
There are many inexpensive if not free ways to keep those intact.
You could even use the shelving boards themselves to hold together the blocks.
Sorce
There are many inexpensive if not free ways to keep those intact.
You could even use the shelving boards themselves to hold together the blocks.
Sorce
Trenthany
Chumono
Damn I was hoping for half blocks on the upper layers. Those are cheaper! Lmao
You think it would be enough if I screwed the boards to the blocks? That was my initial plan as well as a back board at least behind the top and maybe lower to keep it from tilting.
Paradox
Imperial Masterpiece
I disagree Sorce, the first one is highly unstable and will fall over very easily.
Paradox
Imperial Masterpiece
Where it only goes to one block at the back, you could probably get away with just one block if youre not stacking another on top.
Its up to you how you build it but what are your trees worth to you? An extra $4-$10 in blocks for each bench isnt much honestly.
Myself, I wouldnt want to risk a tumble because I wasnt willing to spend an extra $10 and lose a tree that cost me $100 and I had put 10 years into developing.
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Trenthany
Chumono
first two are fairly unstable designs. I was mainly looking at upper sections and once I posted pics I realized look toespace! Lol
Trenthany
Chumono
True it would be more like 40-50 but still. You have a point.
Paradox
Imperial Masterpiece
If youre counting all the blocks yes I would say so.
My own benches cost about $150 each not including shipping which probably adds another $50 to it..
I have single trees that each cost more than the bench they sit on in time and money. There are 3 of them on one bench.
You bet I want to make damn sure they wont be getting damaged because the bench was inadequate or not built right and they ended up on the ground because of it.
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sorce
Nonsense Rascal
Toe Space? Like Red Foreman needs if he is... nevermind!
Once everything is tied in I think only a hurricane could knock that over.
Though I would want to see the base more stable.
Perhaps moving the single low block up under the left, so there will be no cantilevered weight.
If you are building one on each side, a third cross beam to toe them both in will keep it all stable.
A u that you walk into. And a 3rd shelf.
Sorce
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