Tsuga Canadensis study group

[NashsMan]

I was thinking a drip irrigation during the summer (ice cubes?) There is no basement. I do have the LED tank setup for the tropicals. I would have to modify in a major way for pseudo winter. Chest freezer / thermostat etc.

I don’t know. I have some family that I could leave the important ones with and try out with some sample smaller ones. But leaving with others is a big risk too.

Where I grew up at the Southern edge of the Blue Ridge Mountains in North Carolina, there were thousands of Tsuga Canadensis both as landscape plantings and growing wild. A family friend's yard on a mountainside had several 100 foot + trees, and the Joyce Kilmer Forest in the Smoky Mountains near Robbinsville, NC had hundreds of centuries old Tsugas.

The temperatures in that area are seldom below 25° F and often over 90° F.

I think your trees will be fine as long as they are protected from the full summer sun.

 

[Frozentreehugger]

2 more Betty rose these are in 1/2 gallon pots so I have 3 total know . Will develop them seierate for now . But considering there slow growth thinking a mame forest . Have in mind . Possible a rock slab scene . Inspiration . Is islands on lakes in there native range . Especially cottage country here . Small islands of rock are common .

 

[Frozentreehugger]

So went on the weekend . To check my cut back trees in the wild . Somewhat disappointed . For history 4 trees cut back in the wild . 2 smaller ones growing out of a rotten stump . They had sparse growth ( shade trees) thought they would fair better . A storm opened up the canopy . Giving them a lot more light . Very early last spring I aggressively cut them back . 1 week latter . Leaving lower green . Thinking perfect opportunity . They responded weakly last year . And even worse this year . Mist of the existing foliage is dead . With just a few buds . I’m confident if I collected them they would die if there not dead already . The next one up the chain , is a straight trunk with low growth . Semi shade I cut it back 2 springs ago . It responded Reasonable the first year , but weakly this year . Decided to leave it longer . Again the stress of collecting . Third tree . Growing in full sun . Out of a upturned stump in what was once a beaver pond . Now dry . It was not as aggressively trimmed . Leaving a fair bit of foliage. Again 2 springs ago . I’m going to trim it some more . And see what happens . All have had fertilizer spikes added . And some added soil around the trunks . Which looks promising to develop roots . But over all . Somewhat disappointing or at least slow results . But that is what this is about learning what we can do

 

[MrFancyPlants]

So went on the weekend . To check my cut back trees in the wild . Somewhat disappointed . For history 4 trees cut back in the wild . 2 smaller ones growing out of a rotten stump . They had sparse growth ( shade trees) thought they would fair better . A storm opened up the canopy . Giving them a lot more light . Very early last spring I aggressively cut them back . 1 week latter . Leaving lower green . Thinking perfect opportunity . They responded weakly last year . And even worse this year . Mist of the existing foliage is dead . With just a few buds . I’m confident if I collected them they would die if there not dead already . The next one up the chain , is a straight trunk with low growth . Semi shade I cut it back 2 springs ago . It responded Reasonable the first year , but weakly this year . Decided to leave it longer . Again the stress of collecting . Third tree . Growing in full sun . Out of a upturned stump in what was once a beaver pond . Now dry . It was not as aggressively trimmed . Leaving a fair bit of foliage. Again 2 springs ago . I’m going to trim it some more . And see what happens . All have had fertilizer spikes added . And some added soil around the trunks . Which looks promising to develop roots . But over all . Somewhat disappointing or at least slow results . But that is what this is about learning what we can do

Are they getting enough light? Any sign of wooly adelgid or other pests? I hope it hasn’t made it so far North.

 

[MrFancyPlants]

Are they getting enough light? Any sign of wooly adelgid or other pests? I hope it hasn’t made it so far North.

On the re-read, some have more sun than others. I could see how cutting back in a shaded area could cut off most of their food supply and cause decline. But that doesn’t make sense for the sunny area one.. how far along in Spring up there? Maybe they just need some more time to get going.
My Literati project tree I knew was going to be a project due to the health issues. It is strange, some parts of the tree are doing real well this year, and a fair amount of weak back buds. But, especially near the top of the tree, very weak growth and lots of dieback.
My wild collected hemlock, I cut down, dug up and potted In the same weekend. It did not bud out that Spring, but came on strong the following year.
Maybe fertilize and circle the roots with a shovel a year before the chop/collect? Do keep trying.

 

[Frozentreehugger]

Are they getting enough light? Any sign of wooly adelgid or other pests? I hope it hasn’t made it so far North.

On the re-read, some have more sun than others. I could see how cutting back in a shaded area could cut off most of their food supply and cause decline. But that doesn’t make sense for the sunny area one.. how far along in Spring up there? Maybe they just need some more time to get going.
My Literati project tree I knew was going to be a project due to the health issues. It is strange, some parts of the tree are doing real well this year, and a fair amount of weak back buds. But, especially near the top of the tree, very weak growth and lots of dieback.
My wild collected hemlock, I cut down, dug up and potted In the same weekend. It did not bud out that Spring, but came on strong the following year.
Maybe fertilize and circle the roots with a shovel a year before the chop/collect? Do keep trying.

I have never seen any evidence here if the agilcide . There is some in southern Ontario Zone 6 but it is believed the cold of zone 4 they so far can not take . I will keep trying . I would have thought the 2 small ones in heavy shade before the storm . Still not great light but much improved . Basically there is a rock face to the south . But the canopy opened with a large tree falling above that . One would think they should have responded better . There seems to be good moisture in the stump . But learning curve . The one in unchanged partial shade makes more sense . It’s going ok but not great . I’m going to continue add material around the trunk . It might be a hard collect . It’s on top of the same rock area . The best response is the one growing in full sun out of the fall down . Hard to say if it’s a continuation of the root mass or a seperate tree . Just trying to get more foliage down low to make it more collectable . . It will be a easy collect . All I need is a saw and cut the corner off the rootball .

 

[Frozentreehugger]

Any I have collected list some foliage . While recovering . If you read this is a regular response to stress . So up till now I’m like you need foliage to survive the collection . But a experiment might have to be drastic cut a tree and collect from shade . Give it better light and soul see what happens . There is only 2 possible answers I have seen multiple trees . Chopped beside road and trails that regrew . Aggressively . But all were in very good light ,

 

[SchdooraSchnepfla]

Hi, im new here, but I’m following this forums Hemlock-threads for two years now. As I started interesting in bonsais 2 years ago I stumbled across this tree in a nursery und afterall what I knew at this time about bonsai it was i: Take this now or regret forever!

So after a lot searching the web and more researching I landed here and really THANK YOU all for your experience and advises for dealing with hemlocks (very underestimated here in Germany IMO).

Especially frozentreehugger and MrFancyplants: Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience, I learned a lot from you, to keep my lady alive



As this is a study-thread here I finally can give something back, I hope.



Variant: Tsuga canadiensis “Vercade recurved”

- very slow growing( 10 years to 60cm)

- medium watering, but quite tolerant to “overwatering”

- halfshadow to full sun ( my is in full sun since 2 years)

- VERY ! brittle branches- danger of snowpressure breaking big parts off

- small recurved needles max. 5mm long

- frosthardiness -20 to -30 F / -28.9 to -34.4 C

- branches growing in every wiered and crossing directions,

- broad upright growth

- did I mention those absolute $%&ng brittle branches yet?!

- pestresilient (in Europe there is no adelgit, yet)

- til now only 2 backbudds, so keep inner growth wellwatched.

- very good healing over

- branches cracking if you only look at them, so keep away those fat sparrows and the neighbours cat





Measures at this tree:

- bought in August 21, acclimation to full sun

- slippotted October 21 in pond-basket (lead to really vigourous growth).

- mayor downsizing March 22

- trying to airlayer may 22 (-failed spring 23)

- cutting the rootball in half korizontally and putting in the pot: februar 23

- as it responded wery vell till now, downsizing furthermore june 23

- waiting for spring 24 for recovering and more reducing the right side and to get it more in a bonsai shape.


fresh from the nursery August 21



after cutting back even more today /June 23

- everything I cut of, I tried to make a cutting of. Nothing worked (aprox. 60 cuttings, various sizes, various soil) So last summer I finally found this and build the nearing frame in the garden – filled with 90 pct vermiculite and 10 pct sphagnum moos in the middle and lower layers. Since 2 month there are now tiny buds. As it it so slow growing they will get out there next year.

- The nearing frame is my hot recommendation for difficult cuttings. It worked so well even for other nasty species! If someone is interested I can post some pics here as well.



Let’s see what the summer will bring us, and thanks a lot again.

Have fun growing with your trees

Tobi

 

[MrFancyPlants]

Hi, im new here, but I’m following this forums Hemlock-threads for two years now. As I started interesting in bonsais 2 years ago I stumbled across this tree in a nursery und afterall what I knew at this time about bonsai it was i: Take this now or regret forever!

So after a lot searching the web and more researching I landed here and really THANK YOU all for your experience and advises for dealing with hemlocks (very underestimated here in Germany IMO).

Especially frozentreehugger and MrFancyplants: Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience, I learned a lot from you, to keep my lady alive



As this is a study-thread here I finally can give something back, I hope.



Variant: Tsuga canadiensis “Vercade recurved”

- very slow growing( 10 years to 60cm)

- medium watering, but quite tolerant to “overwatering”

- halfshadow to full sun ( my is in full sun since 2 years)

- VERY ! brittle branches- danger of snowpressure breaking big parts off

- small recurved needles max. 5mm long

- frosthardiness -20 to -30 F / -28.9 to -34.4 C

- branches growing in every wiered and crossing directions,

- broad upright growth

- did I mention those absolute $%&ng brittle branches yet?!

- pestresilient (in Europe there is no adelgit, yet)

- til now only 2 backbudds, so keep inner growth wellwatched.

- very good healing over

- branches cracking if you only look at them, so keep away those fat sparrows and the neighbours cat



View attachment 492385

Measures at this tree:

- bought in August 21, acclimation to full sun

- slippotted October 21 in pond-basket (lead to really vigourous growth).

- mayor downsizing March 22

- trying to airlayer may 22 (-failed spring 23)

- cutting the rootball in half korizontally and putting in the pot: februar 23

- as it responded wery vell till now, downsizing furthermore june 23

- waiting for spring 24 for recovering and more reducing the right side and to get it more in a bonsai shape.

View attachment 492388
fresh from the nursery August 21


View attachment 492389
after cutting back even more today /June 23

- everything I cut of, I tried to make a cutting of. Nothing worked (aprox. 60 cuttings, various sizes, various soil) So last summer I finally found this and build the nearing frame in the garden – filled with 90 pct vermiculite and 10 pct sphagnum moos in the middle and lower layers. Since 2 month there are now tiny buds. As it it so slow growing they will get out there next year.

- The nearing frame is my hot recommendation for difficult cuttings. It worked so well even for other nasty species! If someone is interested I can post some pics here as well.



Let’s see what the summer will bring us, and thanks a lot again.

Have fun growing with your trees

Tobi

Very nice roots on your “vercade” I only wish that center trunk were a little weaker or less straight, but I am sure you will get it sorted out with time. I wonder if you could practice some self grafts on parts of the tree that you know will eventually go. I see places were you can bring some of the growth back in, but with a few well placed grafts this tree could become the “full package.” Very nice tree!
Can you show a picture of your cuttings in the cold frame? That could make the grafting much easier, especially since it is so brittle.

 

[Frozentreehugger]

Hi, im new here, but I’m following this forums Hemlock-threads for two years now. As I started interesting in bonsais 2 years ago I stumbled across this tree in a nursery und afterall what I knew at this time about bonsai it was i: Take this now or regret forever!

So after a lot searching the web and more researching I landed here and really THANK YOU all for your experience and advises for dealing with hemlocks (very underestimated here in Germany IMO).

Especially frozentreehugger and MrFancyplants: Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience, I learned a lot from you, to keep my lady alive



As this is a study-thread here I finally can give something back, I hope.



Variant: Tsuga canadiensis “Vercade recurved”

- very slow growing( 10 years to 60cm)

- medium watering, but quite tolerant to “overwatering”

- halfshadow to full sun ( my is in full sun since 2 years)

- VERY ! brittle branches- danger of snowpressure breaking big parts off

- small recurved needles max. 5mm long

- frosthardiness -20 to -30 F / -28.9 to -34.4 C

- branches growing in every wiered and crossing directions,

- broad upright growth

- did I mention those absolute $%&ng brittle branches yet?!

- pestresilient (in Europe there is no adelgit, yet)

- til now only 2 backbudds, so keep inner growth wellwatched.

- very good healing over

- branches cracking if you only look at them, so keep away those fat sparrows and the neighbours cat



View attachment 492385

Measures at this tree:

- bought in August 21, acclimation to full sun

- slippotted October 21 in pond-basket (lead to really vigourous growth).

- mayor downsizing March 22

- trying to airlayer may 22 (-failed spring 23)

- cutting the rootball in half korizontally and putting in the pot: februar 23

- as it responded wery vell till now, downsizing furthermore june 23

- waiting for spring 24 for recovering and more reducing the right side and to get it more in a bonsai shape.

View attachment 492388
fresh from the nursery August 21


View attachment 492389
after cutting back even more today /June 23

- everything I cut of, I tried to make a cutting of. Nothing worked (aprox. 60 cuttings, various sizes, various soil) So last summer I finally found this and build the nearing frame in the garden – filled with 90 pct vermiculite and 10 pct sphagnum moos in the middle and lower layers. Since 2 month there are now tiny buds. As it it so slow growing they will get out there next year.

- The nearing frame is my hot recommendation for difficult cuttings. It worked so well even for other nasty species! If someone is interested I can post some pics here as well.



Let’s see what the summer will bring us, and thanks a lot again.

Have fun growing with your trees

Tobi

Sorry for the delay responding been busy . Thanks for the kind words . But really that is what this thread is for we all learn together . As you are aware there is not a lot of info on these trees . Yours is very nice and you have done some great stuff . As pointed out your nebari is very nice in envying it. I read somewhere that the British took eastern hemlock back to Europe . At start of 1800 and that there is significant plantings in Britain . But also in Germany . Interested in your thoughts on that . What are you using for a soil mix .

 

[SchdooraSchnepfla]

#MrFancyPlants Those cuttings are indeed for grafting too. But I'm still looking here localy for help with that, as i have no glue how to do and especially not how a hemlock will respond. Do you guys have some experience with it?

# Frozentreehugger Didnt know about the british yet, nice. In Germany you will find hemlocks, if you search for them in nurseries. They are not that common. Some forrest-owners around here start experimenting with it as climate change seems to make it hard for the spruces as a main tree in the Black forrest. So they look for alternatives. As a garden plant tsuga canadiensis "cole's prostrate" is the most you will find (2of10 nurseries). Makes nice weeping form bonsais IMO

The plant above is with the original soil in the inner parts (humus?, very muddy, but she likes it). The outer ring where i hope to get the roots in is: lava, pumice, expanded clay(fibotherm), and pinebark, 1:1:1:1 and a hand full of cocofibre. Still experimenting with it. Next time i will use more pinebark, because it dries out to fast for me here. You can see the different soils on the photo still.

Nearing frame / Cold frame:

-very unknown here, but i liked the idea of as much light as possible, without direct sunlight killing the cuttings--- very good for plantpropagation of more difficult species ---Cuttings survived 42° Celsius in summer last year and -14° Celsius in last winter. Humidity is mostly around 90pct--- No watering was necessary from october till march---Was told that you will smell if there are problems, worked well so far (maybe the sphagnumdust helps here, as it is antifungus and vermiculite isn't organic)--- With the glasslid you can regulate humidity and airflow.--- Credits go to this guy. --- The cutoffs from yesterday are drownded in water, soaking and will also get in there this evening---Used rootinghormone(C lonex) last time, this time i will not, cant tell if it makes a difference yet---

Just dropping this here. Maybe it helps someone


The cuttings from last year:



Have a nice day
Tobi

 

[Frozentreehugger]

When I have more time ( at work Guys ) I am a Maria member I will explain Ryan Neal’s approach grafting . I have not tried it but from all I have seen it is simple and makes a lot of sense . His demo is on shinpaku to native juniper . And as expected is Kumuras technique.

 

[Frozentreehugger]

#MrFancyPlants Those cuttings are indeed for grafting too. But I'm still looking here localy for help with that, as i have no glue how to do and especially not how a hemlock will respond. Do you guys have some experience with it?

# Frozentreehugger Didnt know about the british yet, nice. In Germany you will find hemlocks, if you search for them in nurseries. They are not that common. Some forrest-owners around here start experimenting with it as climate change seems to make it hard for the spruces as a main tree in the Black forrest. So they look for alternatives. As a garden plant tsuga canadiensis "cole's prostrate" is the most you will find (2of10 nurseries). Makes nice weeping form bonsais IMO

The plant above is with the original soil in the inner parts (humus?, very muddy, but she likes it). The outer ring where i hope to get the roots in is: lava, pumice, expanded clay(fibotherm), and pinebark, 1:1:1:1 and a hand full of cocofibre. Still experimenting with it. Next time i will use more pinebark, because it dries out to fast for me here. You can see the different soils on the photo still.

Nearing frame / Cold frame:

-very unknown here, but i liked the idea of as much light as possible, without direct sunlight killing the cuttings--- very good for plantpropagation of more difficult species ---Cuttings survived 42° Celsius in summer last year and -14° Celsius in last winter. Humidity is mostly around 90pct--- No watering was necessary from october till march---Was told that you will smell if there are problems, worked well so far (maybe the sphagnumdust helps here, as it is antifungus and vermiculite isn't organic)--- With the glasslid you can regulate humidity and airflow.--- Credits go to this guy. --- The cutoffs from yesterday are drownded in water, soaking and will also get in there this evening---Used rootinghormone(C lonex) last time, this time i will not, cant tell if it makes a difference yet---
View attachment 492511
Just dropping this here. Maybe it helps someone


The cuttings from last year:
View attachment 492512


Have a nice day
Tobi

Cold frame looks interesting . I will admit my success with cuttings seems to be less than other people all species. But I have mainly tried difficult to root stuff . The info I had on hemlock in Germany was more a specimen thing in larger parks gardens etc . Mainly with full size trees not dwarf . As for soil we all use what is available . To each of use . My standard mix is crushed granite DE or a oil absorbent material ( backed clay ) and composted pine bark ( with some wood in it ) hemlock love organic . And long repots . So always looking for better lasting organic . For hemlock I up the pine to about 40 percent . And allow larger particles . Especially in development . Which is everything , I recently ( this year ) started using pumice as it is finely available as a eco friendly ice traction aid . It’s a great black colour but sifts slightly small

 

[MrFancyPlants]

#MrFancyPlants Those cuttings are indeed for grafting too. But I'm still looking here localy for help with that, as i have no glue how to do and especially not how a hemlock will respond. Do you guys have some experience with it?

# Frozentreehugger Didnt know about the british yet, nice. In Germany you will find hemlocks, if you search for them in nurseries. They are not that common. Some forrest-owners around here start experimenting with it as climate change seems to make it hard for the spruces as a main tree in the Black forrest. So they look for alternatives. As a garden plant tsuga canadiensis "cole's prostrate" is the most you will find (2of10 nurseries). Makes nice weeping form bonsais IMO

The plant above is with the original soil in the inner parts (humus?, very muddy, but she likes it). The outer ring where i hope to get the roots in is: lava, pumice, expanded clay(fibotherm), and pinebark, 1:1:1:1 and a hand full of cocofibre. Still experimenting with it. Next time i will use more pinebark, because it dries out to fast for me here. You can see the different soils on the photo still.

Nearing frame / Cold frame:

-very unknown here, but i liked the idea of as much light as possible, without direct sunlight killing the cuttings--- very good for plantpropagation of more difficult species ---Cuttings survived 42° Celsius in summer last year and -14° Celsius in last winter. Humidity is mostly around 90pct--- No watering was necessary from october till march---Was told that you will smell if there are problems, worked well so far (maybe the sphagnumdust helps here, as it is antifungus and vermiculite isn't organic)--- With the glasslid you can regulate humidity and airflow.--- Credits go to this guy. --- The cutoffs from yesterday are drownded in water, soaking and will also get in there this evening---Used rootinghormone(C lonex) last time, this time i will not, cant tell if it makes a difference yet---
View attachment 492511
Just dropping this here. Maybe it helps someone


The cuttings from last year:
View attachment 492512


Have a nice day
Tobi

I have heard that Tsuga respond quite well to grafting, and my experience seeing how fast the bark “rolls over” wounds, supports this second hand experience. However, “I couldn’t graft a ficus” is an accurate statement about me, even if it sounds like an insult to a bonsai-ist.
The one worry is the bark looks smooth on your variety, but even if there was a scar from the grafting, some well placed foliage could always hide the transition.

 

[MrFancyPlants]

That is great news you are having good result with the cuttings. Be sure to take some pictures of the roots when you pot them up. Your variety could make wonderful shohin in my opinion.

 

[SchdooraSchnepfla]

#Frozentreehuger <<"So always looking for better lasting organic . For hemlock I up the pine to about 40 percent . And allow larger particles . Especially in development">>
Seems i need to fill up a lot more with pinebark, Tx a lot.

# MrFancyPlants The varietys bark is only about 2 mm thick but quite strong. I never grafted and the ficusstatement is true for me too. I'll get the cuttings going, search for someone with experienxe around here and will tell here the results. Dont want to screw up the tree. :/
I'm with you about the shohin-thing. A little vercade-forrest in 15 years maybe....we'll see


As i put in the next years cuttings today, i took one of the weaker ones from last year out. Was just to curiuous. Where can i sign in for kokofu-ten 2070?
I put it in an pondbasket. The top and bottom layer are a mixture of pinebark and soil i kept from repotting the motherplant this year 1:1. The roots themself are in a layer of sphagnummoss.
The other cuttings will get 2-3 month more in there. I'll update then.


Have fun with your trees and a nice day,
Tobi

 

[Frozentreehugger]

Approach grafting as per Ryan Neal . Demo shimpaku to Rocky Mountain juniper . Grafting scion fresh healthy air layer shimpaku . Both plants need to to be healthy and vigorous. Do not trim both parts . Especially the branch being grafted to . You want max growth . For max resources moving in the branch . Grafting stem size 1/8 to 1/2 inch normally 1/8 to 1/4 . Ideal is the scion and the branch grafting to are as close to the same size as possible . Plan plan . Placement plan where you will secure the air layer to the tree . Ie the root ball . What you really want is a straight section of branch . 1 to 2.5 inches long . Grafting knife is a disposable utility razor knife the kind with sections of blade you break off . Ideal you make a cut deep 1/2 way thru both parts . Take care to try and slide the blade along so section is the same thickness as you slide the knife along. Hold the knife in one hand . Stem held in palm under blade . Use both thumbs to slide the blade along equal thickness and one sharp cut important. So you end up with 2 sections 1/2 thick when paired the look like one branch for as long as you have room for . Do not move wiggle the pieces in place . Plan ahead without side to side or lengthwise movement . Place them together . Match cambium on both sides . Ideal but smaller scion can be matched along one side . Hold firmly in place . Wrap the hole length . With regular black electrical tape . Stretching the tape slightly so it forms a tight bond . ( reason for the tape is it sticks to itself . As you wrap the tape down the union . Overlap the tape about 1/2 way over the piece already applied . It needs to be reasonable tight . A second layer can be added . Apply wire over the union . To reinforce the tight bond not to bend . He prefers aluminum wire as it will stretch a little as the union grows . Success is measured not with growth of foliage but swelling at the joint . Graft mid to late spring . At least 1 year . This is Kumura grafting technique . Who was known for invisible grafts . Ryan stated he was very protective of who learned this simple technique . Secret to success is tight well fitted pieces and tight wrapping no need for bags and extra moisture at sight . They lead to ugly grafts . I have no experience yet with this technique . But makes a lot of sense to me . And will be what I will be trying . Mist likely with thuja first good luck hope this helps .

 

[ralfish]

Here's a mountain hemlock that was a rescue from a debris slide a couple years ago. It has an akward base, so i decided to run with an unconventional style.

 

[SchdooraSchnepfla]

Approach grafting as per Ryan Neal . Demo shimpaku to Rocky Mountain juniper . Grafting scion fresh healthy air layer shimpaku . Both plants need to to be healthy and vigorous. Do not trim both parts . Especially the branch being grafted to . You want max growth . For max resources moving in the branch . Grafting stem size 1/8 to 1/2 inch normally 1/8 to 1/4 . Ideal is the scion and the branch grafting to are as close to the same size as possible . Plan plan . Placement plan where you will secure the air layer to the tree . Ie the root ball . What you really want is a straight section of branch . 1 to 2.5 inches long . Grafting knife is a disposable utility razor knife the kind with sections of blade you break off . Ideal you make a cut deep 1/2 way thru both parts . Take care to try and slide the blade along so section is the same thickness as you slide the knife along. Hold the knife in one hand . Stem held in palm under blade . Use both thumbs to slide the blade along equal thickness and one sharp cut important. So you end up with 2 sections 1/2 thick when paired the look like one branch for as long as you have room for . Do not move wiggle the pieces in place . Plan ahead without side to side or lengthwise movement . Place them together . Match cambium on both sides . Ideal but smaller scion can be matched along one side . Hold firmly in place . Wrap the hole length . With regular black electrical tape . Stretching the tape slightly so it forms a tight bond . ( reason for the tape is it sticks to itself . As you wrap the tape down the union . Overlap the tape about 1/2 way over the piece already applied . It needs to be reasonable tight . A second layer can be added . Apply wire over the union . To reinforce the tight bond not to bend . He prefers aluminum wire as it will stretch a little as the union grows . Success is measured not with growth of foliage but swelling at the joint . Graft mid to late spring . At least 1 year . This is Kumura grafting technique . Who was known for invisible grafts . Ryan stated he was very protective of who learned this simple technique . Secret to success is tight well fitted pieces and tight wrapping no need for bags and extra moisture at sight . They lead to ugly grafts . I have no experience yet with this technique . But makes a lot of sense to me . And will be what I will be trying . Mist likely with thuja first good luck hope this helps .

Very helpfull indeed. Thanks a lot. So glad, that it is also free on YT.


Had to put the cuttings out now. ~30%-/40% rooting-success till now.
Soil now: 40% old organic (soil i kept from replanting the motherplant), 30% pumice, rest baked clay and pine bark. "dressing": 1 cm pine bark.
Litterbag as cover to adapt slowly from 90% humdity to the 40% humidity we have around here at this time, Placed in full shade atm.




We'll see. Have a nice day.
Tobi

 

[ralfish]

Approach grafting as per Ryan Neal . Demo shimpaku to Rocky Mountain juniper . Grafting scion fresh healthy air layer shimpaku . Both plants need to to be healthy and vigorous. Do not trim both parts . Especially the branch being grafted to . You want max growth . For max resources moving in the branch . Grafting stem size 1/8 to 1/2 inch normally 1/8 to 1/4 . Ideal is the scion and the branch grafting to are as close to the same size as possible . Plan plan . Placement plan where you will secure the air layer to the tree . Ie the root ball . What you really want is a straight section of branch . 1 to 2.5 inches long . Grafting knife is a disposable utility razor knife the kind with sections of blade you break off . Ideal you make a cut deep 1/2 way thru both parts . Take care to try and slide the blade along so section is the same thickness as you slide the knife along. Hold the knife in one hand . Stem held in palm under blade . Use both thumbs to slide the blade along equal thickness and one sharp cut important. So you end up with 2 sections 1/2 thick when paired the look like one branch for as long as you have room for . Do not move wiggle the pieces in place . Plan ahead without side to side or lengthwise movement . Place them together . Match cambium on both sides . Ideal but smaller scion can be matched along one side . Hold firmly in place . Wrap the hole length . With regular black electrical tape . Stretching the tape slightly so it forms a tight bond . ( reason for the tape is it sticks to itself . As you wrap the tape down the union . Overlap the tape about 1/2 way over the piece already applied . It needs to be reasonable tight . A second layer can be added . Apply wire over the union . To reinforce the tight bond not to bend . He prefers aluminum wire as it will stretch a little as the union grows . Success is measured not with growth of foliage but swelling at the joint . Graft mid to late spring . At least 1 year . This is Kumura grafting technique . Who was known for invisible grafts . Ryan stated he was very protective of who learned this simple technique . Secret to success is tight well fitted pieces and tight wrapping no need for bags and extra moisture at sight . They lead to ugly grafts . I have no experience yet with this technique . But makes a lot of sense to me . And will be what I will be trying . Mist likely with thuja first good luck hope this helps .

I watched the video on Youtube also, but thanks for taking the time to write this out. I'm surprised he used electrical tape as it sometimes has a tendency to pull the bark off when being removed. You have to be aware of this risk. I usually use grafting tape to seal everything and if my joints are poor enough to need pulling together i use surveyors tape. Its as stretchy as electrical tape, just as cheap but doesnt stick, so there is zero risk in pulling the bark away. However, unlike grafting tape it needs to be removed before the tree grows into it. Ive done a fair bit of grafting on apples, pears and quince which are great beginner trees to practice with (anyone need an apple tree?) But so far the only success Ive had with conifers is by doing approach grafts. The more robust and healthy the tree is with pushing new growth the better your chances are. This Kamura split branch approach is very interesting and makes sense to use when you have decent branch placement but are changing the foliage. Adding new branches will require a different approach.