Two year Maple Growth

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I got this this tree two years ago from a ebay seller. I got it into better soil the fist year and have been letting it grow strong branches and thicken the trunk. This year I have been working to keep a good shape and trimming back new growth. Hopefully over the next few years keep working the branches and get into a more traditional bonsai pot and soil.
 

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VAFisher

Masterpiece
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Looks nice and healthy. I would consider removing that weird half circle root. It will leave a pretty big scar but tridents heal pretty fast.
 
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Looks nice and healthy. I would consider removing that weird half circle root. It will leave a pretty big scar but tridents heal pretty fast.
Thanks, yes I do plan on removing that root. Using it to help thicken the trunk. So hopefully over the next year or two it will be removed.
 

Newish in Oregon

Yamadori
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Thanks, yes I do plan on removing that root. Using it to help thicken the trunk. So hopefully over the next year or two it will be removed.
I'm no expert but my understanding is that branches thicken trunk below point of attachment and haven't heard anything about roots thickening the trunk. If correct, the sooner that root is removed, the better.
 

sorce

Nonsense Rascal
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I'd aim to layer it, 3 times...
Capture+_2022-06-10-04-26-46.png

I feel like you may be in a position of not realizing the vigour of this tree, I been there with Maple.
Worse is it seems to be coming from that circle joint and the one opposite, with a direct connection to the dual apical dominators that, IMO, are keeping you from a faster, more appropriately tapered design.

It's as if those 2 connections are so strong, it's running juice up the tree with NFG about your design, even being so apically strong, they damn near grew all the taper out of your newly created segment.

Once you get that energy coming from more evenly distributed radial roots, it becomes easier for your work to make an impact, because you essentially have changed your "detail" from a 2/2, to a 8/8, 10/10, depending on the thickness of the trunk and proportions of the tree, could be over 16/16. This allows you more control over fine details, as you can combine 3 roots to "work" one top....eh....

Think of it like this...

If you have 10k cars to get from point A to point B, on a 2 lane highway, within a certain amount of time, they all have to travel super fast, too fast for us to work.

If you have a 16 lane highway, you can have them all moving slower, slow enough to even create off ramps that allows distribution to other destinations.

I don't know why other people think we must start at the Nebari, but this is it for me. It's necessary in order to have any control over the top design, or the most control possible.

I'd like to see you growing them vigorous trunk thickening branches from appropriate places on the trunk to keep your taper, even increase it.

However, I don't think the current situation of the roots will allow for it.

It's essentially impossible to keep such apical dominance in check by cutting the top when on a 2 lane highway. The details ratio just isn't there.

Sorce
 
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Thanks for the feedback. I see what you’re getting at and the air layers would help to get more out of the tree then just letting it grow out of control. At least I got a couple options.
 
Messages
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Location
Indian trail NC
USDA Zone
8a
Cut back from summer growth. Defoliated and removed some bigger branches. Will hopefully get some new growth on the middle upper right side of the tree this spring. Will also work on the football and repot this spring as well.
 

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