Ugly acer needs help! Trunk chop or root graft

p_anova

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Hello all. I actually bought this guy for my mom on Mother's day maybe 10 years ago from the DC Arboretum convention. She put it in a pot and just left it. After years of neglect, she gave it back to me and I am trying to sort it out. No real nebari to speak of and the branching has tons of scars and touches of reverse taper. My question is: Where should I start? I was either going to do a root graft to try and grow new roots or trunk chop and try to develope new branching. I did the repot into bonsai soil last year and just let it grow to regain vigor. 20220421_151023.jpg20220421_151028.jpg20220421_151032.jpg20220421_151113.jpg20220421_151028.jpg
 

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Hack Yeah!

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That's a really cool tree. You've got enough taper imo. The trunk has that mature bark. With a few years of applied bonsai techniques you'll have something to be proud of. I'd consider cutting one of the upper trunks this year, but otherwise just get it happy!
 

Hack Yeah!

Omono
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Just 2D looking this would be a possible option, then either graft roots or just ground layer next season. Good luckScreenshot_20220504-205226_Chrome.jpg
 

p_anova

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That's a really cool tree. You've got enough taper imo. The trunk has that mature bark. With a few years of applied bonsai techniques you'll have something to be proud of. I'd consider cutting one of the upper trunks this year, but otherwise just get it happy!
Thanks for the input. I was honestly thinking about cutting the bottom dead branch to the left, and below the 2 branches because both upper trunks look crappy.
 

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San Franpsycho

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I'd plant it in the ground and forget about it for a couple years, see what you have then.
maybe constrict roots to develop nebari during that, if its a big concern.
 

Shibui

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Cool. I have never done any type of layer so do you recommend tying a wire around the base of the tree a la tourniquet or carving around the tree?
Either method will work but wire round the trunk is only practical where the trunk is somewhat round. If you want to layer closer to the existing roots wire will be much harder so carving round will be more practical.

I was honestly thinking about cutting the bottom dead branch to the left, and below the 2 branches because both upper trunks look crappy.
JM are not always good at buds on older trunks and really hard chops on older trunks sometimes causes death of large roots that have been feeding those branches.
I'd reduce the trunks in a couple of stages to be safe. Chop to the lowest side shoot on both live branches first and hope that will stimulate some new buds below the fork. After those new buds are growing well you can complete the chop if you still want to. That should give the roots and sap flow time to adjust and tie into the new branch structure.
Chop the dead branch but I'd leave a short stub at this stage. There should be lots of dormant buds round the base of that branch and chopping the top may just get some of them to grow.
 

p_anova

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Either method will work but wire round the trunk is only practical where the trunk is somewhat round. If you want to layer closer to the existing roots wire will be much harder so carving round will be more practical.


JM are not always good at buds on older trunks and really hard chops on older trunks sometimes causes death of large roots that have been feeding those branches.
I'd reduce the trunks in a couple of stages to be safe. Chop to the lowest side shoot on both live branches first and hope that will stimulate some new buds below the fork. After those new buds are growing well you can complete the chop if you still want to. That should give the roots and sap flow time to adjust and tie into the new branch structure.
Chop the dead branch but I'd leave a short stub at this stage. There should be lots of dormant buds round the base of that branch and chopping the top may just get some of them to grow.
Sounds like a great plan! I just started the air layer so I should wait till next year to start working the top.
 

Shibui

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Sounds like a great plan! I just started the air layer so I should wait till next year to start working the top.
Generally more top growth and more leaves = faster root production so leaving work on the top until after the new roots have grown makes sense.
 
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