UME MUME Ramification instead of flowering?

[Jason_mazzy]

Ok so what is the basic general principle for any attempt at back budding and ramification? I don't need blooms I get plenty I want to shorten up the branches and get some fullness WITHOUT GRAFTING. I had plenty of leaf buds pop close to the trunk so I won't need to graft if I can focus on just ramification. I am hoping maybe 2 seasons of ramification and then a show worthy weeping flowering presentation 3rd season.

 

[Cadillactaste]

I was hoping for some photos...Sorry no advice...maybe someone else maybe able to chip in and help. Weeping flowers had me hooked in...Hoping to see some photos of this tree at some point.

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

Right now, as the buds are opening (so you can tell which ones are viable), prune each branch back to leave only one or two viable buds. Then in early May, prune everything back again to 2-3 nodes. I'll try to load some pix, but I've already done this with mine...last week.

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

So when the buds are at the stage as shown circled in red, or earlier, I prune back to leave one or two viable buds. Those identified with blue arrows are not viable, so it's best to not cut back until you know what will pop.

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

A little late, but here is where I'd cut if wasn't trying to grow out the branch.

Instead, this year I'll shorten this year's closest shoot to 1-2 nodes, and develop it to eventually replace the rest of the branch.

 

[Jason_mazzy]

I'm a little past your bud stage. Getting some opening.

I should be ok to cut back to a couple newly opened buds/leaves?

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

I'm a little past your bud stage. Getting some opening.

I should be ok to cut back to a couple newly opened buds/leaves?

You can still prune back last year's branches which contain new growing buds, as I showed in those photos, but don't pinch any of the newly-growing shoots yet.