Using rockwool for cuttings...

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Mame
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It seems a lot of people here have trouble getting cuttings to root, due to improper air water ratio, root temp, ect...

Why is know body using rockwool, I
Is there any specific reason? In the past I always used rockwool or rapid rooter plugs or even bubble cloners(awsumn).
Yes this was not for bonsai. But it gave 100% results every time . In a domed tray with special heating pad underneath.
The rock wool would have to be planted with the new tree at first but I bet u could cut it off carefully after the tree has a little maturing under its belt. It's actually what I was planning on trying.
 
I think it would work great actually, my bosses use perlite fines for cuttings on heated beds, gets great results of fine root development, its where I got the idea to use it a solo media for larger more mature trees. Feeder roots form crazy fast in the stuff
 
Actually I just noticed that www.kaizenbonsai.com sells rockwool so graham potter must use it. Maybe it's more widespread than I thought.
Doesn't perlite look weird on trees potted in it though?
 
WoW that looks airy...cuttings would love that ;)
Great for bonsai as its started off with a flat horizontal root system already
 
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I'm thinking that cuttings intended for bonsai need to have a good root base early on or else you're never going to get really good material. The rock wool will tear up smaller roots when you try to work them as 2nd year cuttings, which is when I think you need to work them. Unless you can consistently get well developed, evenly spread roots AFTER the wool is removed, you're probably wasting your time bonsai wise.
 
I'm thinking that cuttings intended for bonsai need to have a good root base early on or else you're never going to get really good material. The rock wool will tear up smaller roots when you try to work them as 2nd year cuttings, which is when I think you need to work them. Unless you can consistently get well developed, evenly spread roots AFTER the wool is removed, you're probably wasting your time bonsai wise.
I was thinking the same thing. a big tangled mess. I've taken tons of tree cuttings and having a loose small particle media make root work much easier. I work mine much soon than 2years though. I work um twice a year. I've already repotted my elm cutting for the selfi contest 3 times. almost ready for their 4th and their not even a year old yet
 
In the past when I used it the need to see nice roots was not afactor so it would just be planted with the rockwool and left that way. My assumption is that after 6 months to s year it could be removed in prices with a sharp razor blade and tweasers. I don't know know for sure. I wonder how graham potter does it...
 
It seems a lot of people here have trouble getting cuttings to root, due to improper air water ratio, root temp, ect...

Why is know body using rockwool, I
Is there any specific reason? In the past I always used rockwool or rapid rooter plugs or even bubble cloners(awsumn).
Yes this was not for bonsai. But it gave 100% results every time . In a domed tray with special heating pad underneath.
The rock wool would have to be planted with the new tree at first but I bet u could cut it off carefully after the tree has a little maturing under its belt. It's actually what I was planning on trying.
I really like rooting plugs. Never liked rock wool, seemed to grow bacteria faster.
Using them side by side I had better results with plugs.
 
I really like rooting plugs. Never liked rock wool, seemed to grow bacteria faster.
Using them side by side I had better results with plugs.
How did u remove the plug after it rooted? Those are oven more robust than rockwool.
 
How did u remove the plug after it rooted? Those are oven more robust than rockwool.
Never took them off. I cut the bottom half of the plug off, roots and all and three and four years later I am still picking pieces out. Patience.
 
In the past when I used it the need to see nice roots was not afactor so it would just be planted with the rockwool and left that way. My assumption is that after 6 months to s year it could be removed in prices with a sharp razor blade and tweasers.

If you are referring to using the small thin pads and not the bulky blocks there is a huge difference. The small pad will break down(compact) in a year or so. By then the roots will be able to handle you brushing, cutting off what is left easily. The big chunks are not advised for that reason as they take forever to break down and have a tendency to collect to much salt. The small ones don't worry about.

Edit: I forgot to mention if you take a razor and cut half way into the thin ones a few times side to side and drive an awl through them a dozen times or so they will break down and remove easier down the road.

Grimmy
 
Thanks Grimmy. the ones I have are about 1.5" cubes not the big ones but not the thin ones either.
 
In the orchid world, rock wool comes into fashion and then falls out of fashion.

There seems to be a geographic distribution of people who like using rockwool. In the Midwest USA we have moderate to hard water, Rockwool is not popular in the Midwest. In areas where municipal water is quite soft, rockwool seems to be more popular. It is also popular with people who have RO systems.

So the old adage is "Results may vary".

Personally I hate rockwool. It has caused me nothing but trouble. I have moderately hard water. It is a bad choice for me personally.
 
Thanks Grimmy. the ones I have are about 1.5" cubes not the big ones but not the thin ones either.

So the old adage is "Results may vary".

If dealing with it one must understand not only what their goals are but also the intended use of the product. Rockwool will work great in a hydroponic system but not all - it is meant to be used in "flushing" systems and "shines" in that arena. Everything else is a personal "experiment".

Grimmy
 
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