Nicholas Box
Mame
Anything new on this one?
Unlikely. Julian is now an apprentice in Japan at Kouka-en. The same place Bjorn apprenticed. He’s there with Kaya Mooney.Anything new on this one?
Unlikely. Julian is now an apprentice in Japan at Kouka-en. The same place Bjorn apprenticed. He’s there with Kaya Mooney.
I think Julian sold most everything before moving to Japan I have his JBP.
It would be interesting to hear his thoughts about this tree now that he’s had a few months of training in Japan!
I'm going to graft it with itoigawa! No backbudding and the foliage is too coarse to make it into a small tree.Unlikely. Julian is now an apprentice in Japan at Kouka-en. The same place Bjorn apprenticed. He’s there with Kaya Mooney.
I think Julian sold most everything before moving to Japan I have his JBP.
It would be interesting to hear his thoughts about this tree now that he’s had a few months of training in Japan!
I'm going to graft it with itoigawa! No backbudding and the foliage is too coarse to make it into a small tree.
Hi @Potawatomi13 , when I make or style a tree I want to use the branches to frame the best features or perhaps to accentuate movement or some negative space. The most notable feature of this tree is it's strong base and deadwood features, and it would be a shame to build the tree so far away from itWhy the insistence on small tree? Bigger tree: foliage makes you happier.
Nothing about this tree says Bunjin. I agree with the decision to graft as unfortunate as it is to lose the native foliage. It will result in a much better tree.Hmm. I see the foliage as providing color, interesting leaf shape, energy to make trunk bigger. Sort of as accent to trunk. However trunk remains main feature and within reason foliage further away exposing more trunk is virtue. Taken to greatest extent in Literati. Also would never graft foreign foliage variety on American tree. Personally largely disdain Japanese trees.
I'm back in the US right now! Also upon acquiring this tree I was told it was Utah, but after having seen many Utahs in person it is most likely Sierra. I do like the blue foliage quite a lot. I did try at one stage to induce backbudding and to approach graft it's own shoots closer to the base, but I think using a smaller foliage will give the best result.Nothing about this tree says Bunjin. I agree with the decision to graft as unfortunate as it is to lose the native foliage. It will result in a much better tree.
What are the dimensions of this tree? I recently purchased a collected Sierra Juniper that may end being grafted with Kishu. Do you have it with you in Japan? Congratulations on your apprenticeship. What a fantastic experience!
Cory
It could also be Western Juniper. It’s not a Utah. Utah has greener, larger foliage, that’s very brittle, and easy to knock off. Western foliage is rather sticky. And it’s difficult to make nice pads as it stays rather coarse.I'm back in the US right now! Also upon acquiring this tree I was told it was Utah, but after having seen many Utahs in person it is most likely Sierra. I do like the blue foliage quite a lot. I did try at one stage to induce backbudding and to approach graft it's own shoots closer to the base, but I think using a smaller foliage will give the best result.
I feel it is a Sierra with similar foliage to mine, the color often varies when placed outside their native range. If I use any copper spray ( Bordeaux) on the foliage it turns bluer for some time.I'm back in the US right now! Also upon acquiring this tree I was told it was Utah, but after having seen many Utahs in person it is most likely Sierra. I do like the blue foliage quite a lot. I did try at one stage to induce backbudding and to approach graft it's own shoots closer to the base, but I think using a smaller foliage will give the best result.
Some Cali junipers have better foliage than others. There’s two good reasons to root graft: 1) the native roots aren’t used to being watered frequently. Grafted roots are less likely to get diseased by frequent watering. 2) you can get roots closer to the base of the trunk.Cali
In recent years I have seen some very nice examples of refined native Sierra foliage. And I agree with Adair on the root grafting, very useful on collected trees trying to balance the rootball and benefit from a new more upright planting angle as well as adapt to climate varily larger ation. Mine responded nicely to a less retentive mix of soil components. I reduced the Akadama to 15% and used a slightly larger particle size. Also, I shelter it. during our wet winters! Is now thriving after five years in the Pacific Northwest.Yep, the desert junipers definitely don't thrive in very humid climates will at best be less vigorous or at worst, die. I don't know if it's necessary to graft on different roots, but change the foliage to say kishu or itoigawa makes a big different in the humid climates from what people tell me.
I have a Cali I collected shortly after moving back to the US. I have to see it through it's aftercare, but if it lives I'm debating whether to graft or not. The foliage is quite good for a California, feels like a coarser kishu.
It could also be Western Juniper. It’s not a Utah. Utah has greener, larger foliage, that’s very brittle, and easy to knock off. Western foliage is rather sticky. And it’s difficult to make nice pads as it stays rather coarse.
If I could find some nice bluish foliage I'd do it. For the same reasons I'm considering kishu because of the color, but itoigawa will allow me to maximize the detail and structure for a smaller tree.@bleumeon
I like the "blue" color of the original native foliage. Would you consider using a "blue foliage" cultivar of a more horticulturally adaptable species.
For example
J. x pfitzeriana 'Blaauw'
or maybe one of the other x pfitzer types,
or maybe 'Blue Star' which is a needle variety.
Just a thought. I had a 'Blaauw' at one time, they used to be common as landscape junipers during the 1950's through 1980's, then went out of favor. Old urban-adori trees can be found. The foliage was like a slightly coarse shimpaku, it was really pretty good for bonsai. Not as fine as 'Kishu' or 'Itoigawa', but it was pretty good.
I like the blueish color of Grey Owl, and its apparantly resistant to cedar-apple rust, which is simply awesome!If I could find some nice bluish foliage I'd do it. For the same reasons I'm considering kishu because of the color, but itoigawa will allow me to maximize the detail and structure for a smaller tree.