Nicholas Box
Mame
Anything new on this one?
Utah Juniper, my first yamadori!
- Thread starter justBonsai
- Start date
Unlikely. Julian is now an apprentice in Japan at Kouka-en. The same place Bjorn apprenticed. He’s there with Kaya Mooney.
I think Julian sold most everything before moving to Japan I have his JBP.
It would be interesting to hear his thoughts about this tree now that he’s had a few months of training in Japan!
Nicholas Box
Mame
I knew he moved, wasn't sure if he sold everything or had someone watching a bunch of trees.
It would really be interesting to hear his thoughts. He posts on Instagram quite a bit, though I've not visited his blog at all.
justBonsai
Omono
I'm going to graft it with itoigawa! No backbudding and the foliage is too coarse to make it into a small tree.
Potawatomi13
Imperial Masterpiece
justBonsai
Omono
Hi @Potawatomi13 , when I make or style a tree I want to use the branches to frame the best features or perhaps to accentuate movement or some negative space. The most notable feature of this tree is it's strong base and deadwood features, and it would be a shame to build the tree so far away from itWhy the insistence on small tree? Bigger tree: foliage makes you happier.
Potawatomi13
Imperial Masterpiece
Hmm. I see the foliage as providing color, interesting leaf shape, energy to make trunk bigger. Sort of as accent to trunk. However trunk remains main feature and within reason foliage further away exposing more trunk is virtue. Taken to greatest extent in Literati. Also would never graft foreign foliage variety on American tree. Personally largely disdain Japanese trees.
. Also would never graft foreign foliage variety on American tree. Personally largely disdain Japanese trees.
misfit11
Omono
Nothing about this tree says Bunjin. I agree with the decision to graft as unfortunate as it is to lose the native foliage. It will result in a much better tree.Hmm. I see the foliage as providing color, interesting leaf shape, energy to make trunk bigger. Sort of as accent to trunk. However trunk remains main feature and within reason foliage further away exposing more trunk is virtue. Taken to greatest extent in Literati
What are the dimensions of this tree? I recently purchased a collected Sierra Juniper that may end being grafted with Kishu. Do you have it with you in Japan? Congratulations on your apprenticeship. What a fantastic experience!
Cory
justBonsai
Omono
I'm back in the US right now! Also upon acquiring this tree I was told it was Utah, but after having seen many Utahs in person it is most likely Sierra. I do like the blue foliage quite a lot. I did try at one stage to induce backbudding and to approach graft it's own shoots closer to the base, but I think using a smaller foliage will give the best result.
It could also be Western Juniper. It’s not a Utah. Utah has greener, larger foliage, that’s very brittle, and easy to knock off. Western foliage is rather sticky. And it’s difficult to make nice pads as it stays rather coarse.
I have a Western I’ve grafted Kishu onto.
I placed the grafts on about 6 years ago. All the Western foliage is removed.
I also have a Utah that’s not quite as far along. I placed the grafts on it about 3 years ago, and I’ve just separated the grafts from their roots.
my Utah also has San Jose roots grafted on!
One of the benefits of grafting foliage and roots onto Utah trunks is that it will live in more climates than if it had notbeen grafted. Utah and California Junipers are essentially desert trees, and they don’t do well in humid climates or in places where it rains in the summer. Changing the foliage and roots to species that are more suited to container growth and climates where us people tend to live means the trees will be sustainable and will continue to thrive for decades.
River's Edge
Masterpiece
I feel it is a Sierra with similar foliage to mine, the color often varies when placed outside their native range. If I use any copper spray ( Bordeaux)
on the foliage it turns bluer for some time.
justBonsai
Omono
Yep, the desert junipers definitely don't thrive in very humid climates will at best be less vigorous or at worst, die. I don't know if it's necessary to graft on different roots, but change the foliage to say kishu or itoigawa makes a big different in the humid climates from what people tell me.
I have a Cali I collected shortly after moving back to the US. I have to see it through it's aftercare, but if it lives I'm debating whether to graft or not. The foliage is quite good for a California, feels like a coarser kishu.
I have a Cali I collected shortly after moving back to the US. I have to see it through it's aftercare, but if it lives I'm debating whether to graft or not. The foliage is quite good for a California, feels like a coarser kishu.
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justBonsai
Omono
Some Cali junipers have better foliage than others. There’s two good reasons to root graft: 1) the native roots aren’t used to being watered frequently. Grafted roots are less likely to get diseased by frequent watering. 2) you can get roots closer to the base of the trunk.
River's Edge
Masterpiece
In recent years I have seen some very nice examples of refined native Sierra foliage. And I agree with Adair on the root grafting, very useful on collected trees trying to balance the rootball and benefit from a new more upright planting angle as well as adapt to climate varily larger ation. Mine responded nicely to a less retentive mix of soil components. I reduced the Akadama to 15% and used a slightly larger particle size. Also, I shelter it. during our wet winters! Is now thriving after five years in the Pacific Northwest.
oddirt
Mame
This is a J californica from Grove Way in Hayward, CA. I'm thinking of keeping its native foliage since the tree is so large (44" from base to apex). Might be able to pull off the coarseness of the native leaves given its size. It's about the scale of the foliage for the overall design, right? It hasn't been styled in a few years but it's on the to-do list. These grow pretty close by naturally and this one has been at the nursery for over 10 years with its native roots.
Leo in N E Illinois
The Professor
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@bleumeon
I like the "blue" color of the original native foliage. Would you consider using a "blue foliage" cultivar of a more horticulturally adaptable species.
For example
J. x pfitzeriana 'Blaauw'
or maybe one of the other x pfitzer types,
or maybe 'Blue Star' which is a needle variety.
Just a thought. I had a 'Blaauw' at one time, they used to be common as landscape junipers during the 1950's through 1980's, then went out of favor. Old urban-adori trees can be found. The foliage was like a slightly coarse shimpaku, it was really pretty good for bonsai. Not as fine as 'Kishu' or 'Itoigawa', but it was pretty good.
I like the "blue" color of the original native foliage. Would you consider using a "blue foliage" cultivar of a more horticulturally adaptable species.
For example
J. x pfitzeriana 'Blaauw'
or maybe one of the other x pfitzer types,
or maybe 'Blue Star' which is a needle variety.
Just a thought. I had a 'Blaauw' at one time, they used to be common as landscape junipers during the 1950's through 1980's, then went out of favor. Old urban-adori trees can be found. The foliage was like a slightly coarse shimpaku, it was really pretty good for bonsai. Not as fine as 'Kishu' or 'Itoigawa', but it was pretty good.
justBonsai
Omono
If I could find some nice bluish foliage I'd do it. For the same reasons I'm considering kishu because of the color, but itoigawa will allow me to maximize the detail and structure for a smaller tree.
just.wing.it
Deadwood Head
I like the blueish color of Grey Owl, and its apparantly resistant to cedar-apple rust, which is simply awesome!
But maybe too coarse for your the liking of many.
