Utah Juniper Yamadori brainstorming

[Andrew Snook]

i have some concerns…

I collected this Utah Juniper along with three others from BLM land surrounding Canyonlands national park. They are all planted in pure 1/4” screened pumice and their containers are well-draining.

I live in Seattle — but a mild, sea-regulated neighborhood where temperatures rarely fluctuate beyond 30-70F. The tree has remained totally undercover from rain and gets slight morning sun. It has been on a heatbed since December per suggestion from Todd Schlafer.
I’ve been misting the tree at least twice daily.

I've done extensive research on yamadori, junipers, and desert species. I wonder about the order of my next steps. I know i must wait for abundant foliar growth to assure root growth(which feels like watching paint dry). Once growth is identified- how should i proceed? And how long should the timeframes be?

Do i style in the fall/following spring/summer?

Do i progress to full watering instead of daily misting? And if so, when?

Do i leave the tree untouched for two years or more until its ready to be repotted?

Do i perform deadwood/live vein maintenance this year? Next year?

When should i begin fertilizing? Organic or not?

Will the tree benefit from Randy Knights suggestion of sawdust topdressing?


the answer I’m looking for is a timeline of the aforementioned methods as if the tree were your own and has not suffered any regression up to this point.

 

[PaulH]

1. Organic fertilizer when new green growth appears at the tips. I use Gro-Power Plus and liquid kelp.
2. Soil should be damp but not wet. Twice a day misting may not be enough.
3. Don't do any work on the tree until it is pushing vigorous runners. Then you can repot or wire but not both in the same season.
4. I wouldn't top dress with sawdust. I've heard Randy say he puts newly collected trees in a bed of wood shavings but I don't know anyone else who does that successfully.

 

[BrianBay9]

Agree. Let the tree tell you when it's ready to work. I've had collected trees sit and do nothing for 2-3 years before they decided to take off.

 

[sorce]

as if the tree were your own and has not suffered any regression up to this point.

I don't like the way this is worded, not as an insult but as a "internet communications 101" observation.
There is an implication we will move forward regardless of regressions if "as if" applies to "has not suffered any regressions" as well.

Of regressions.....

I am one to believe that a plastic container like that is a regression.
There is one blessing to see-through containers which is knowing for certain when the roots have grown. The downside is they don't like to grow roots in plastic containers.

When you can see your water level, your soil hasn't much tweener capillary holding capacity, and your roots need water, I do not understand why you are not watering it completely now. Aside from that container being too "humid", there is absolutely no reason not to water.

"Sawdust on top" sounds like a bandaid for a problem that shouldn't have existed in the first place that will only cause more problems.

I am also having a hard time understanding why it is guarded from rain, yet misted, and guarded from sun, yet heated.

Sounds like the bottom is drying out more than it is creating an environment roots would want to grow.

Anyhow....
Them runners are key.

But even after you identify "abundant foliar growth", you'll still have at least 6 years before it stifles your design, so nothing has to happen fast.

Nice.

Sorce

 

[ShadyStump]

i have some concerns…

You should.

I live in Seattle — but a mild, sea-regulated neighborhood where temperatures rarely fluctuate beyond 30-70F. The tree has remained totally undercover from rain and gets slight morning sun. It has been on a heatbed since December per suggestion from Todd Schlafer.
I’ve been misting the tree at least twice daily.

Poor bastard is already drowning because Seattle, under cover or not. No need for misting, and put it in the yard in the substrate you have and you will also never need to water.
It needs more light than you will ever naturally get until June. Move it to the brightest spot you can, south facing, rotate often.
You may have issues with dormancy requirements BECAUSE you don't get extreme temperatures, and have very little sunlight compared to what it's evolved for. It might be too cool for it to want to wake up, and then not cool enough for it to want to go to sleep.
If these survive, expect really short growing seasons or allot of artificial environment controls.

I think your forgetting to incorporate your knowledge of the particulars of your local environment into research presented for the national average. The extremes of the two environments you're negotiating between mean that Seattle (I was stationed on La Push in the CG, so not unfamiliar) already naturally does everything a newly collected Utah juniper needs.
Your problem is going to be with building its strength back up after the initial transplant concerns. Your single biggest issue- the most difficult for you to accommodate- will these trees' need for lots of hot, HOT sun.
Don't mean to sound discouraging. I am the last guy to tell you not to give it a try.
Good luck!

 

[Colorado]

Seems like the biggest challenge for you is going to be just going hands off and letting it recover from collection. What is the big rush? It needs a couple years at least before you do ANYTHING to it other than water and fertilize. No pruning, no cleaning the live vein, no repotting - you just need to let it recover.

Some style the tree while it is still in the collection container and then repot the following year. I prefer to repot first, and then style when the tree has recovered from repotting - probably the following year.

You definitely need to water it……….your post suggests you have only been misting and not watering the rootball at all?

Not to be condescending, but that is a very old tree you collected. I tend to think that this fundamental research should have been done before collecting a bunch of old trees, to give the trees maximum chance to survive. Seems a bit cavalier. Just my 2 cents. Hope it does well for you! Has great potential.

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

I think that plastic container is going to drop its bottom this year. It might be wise to reenforce it somehow.

I have some yamadori junipers from 2019 that just got their first repot last fall.
Grafting new foliage last year, this year and next year. Then let it rip for another, maybe.
Then style again.
2024 will be the year for them. That's my 5 year timeline.

 

[Potawatomi13]

Lots to Ponder. And to confuse. Patience grasshopper. Tree has great potential.

 

[PonderingSage:]

I would suggest next time you custom build a box that is sight and snug, just big enough to contain the tree.
That way the soil drys out faster.
Also tie it in tight.
I mist more than water as well, but never let it completely dry out. You can also try to cover the soil to keep the rain out, l do this went misting so the soil stays dryer.
Good luck!